LeLv30_Superbus

Yes! The first one (the one that autoplays) is the best I've seen. www.youtube.com/LeLv30Superbus It's in 5 parts.

You forgot to flip the SIG AMPL switch to OVERRIDE in your FUEL panel. Surely that would've done the trick! A LINE CHECK would be a polite thing to do first, though, the switch is right next to the first one, same panel. You're welcome. :P

Re: USB displays Beware of possible driver problems with operating systems newer than WinXP.

Paint them metallic and you'd probably get a bad imitation of a locking switch. Looks the part, kind of, but you couldn't pull it when you switch. I might try to paint them one day too see how they look but I don't have that kind of paint at hand.

Absolutely no problem, TigersharkBAS. Good job with the video tutorials, byt the way. I was thinking someone should do something like that and I felt bad for not having the time to do it myself.

Hey no problem Bubb. Make sure you protect the WH from below. I used a plastic film for book covers. When you remove the bottom plate the insides are left unprotected: Remember - you need two of the things, one won't do.

Ah, that's a qood one. I'm desperately trying to get more of them myself. They are plastic plugs from an ordinary voltage meter. They protect the probe connections (holes in the device) when there is no probe connected. Nobody ever uses them, so they should be lying around carages all over the place. They fit the switch pole like a glove and feel and look very nice. Most of you probably own a pair. But you can't buy them anywhere.

One way to go about this is to build a small box around the displays and keeping the feet which come with the displays. Pictures in Input & Output forum: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=44846&page=17 This way you don't have to glue anything on the TFT-panels. More pics here: http://www.lelv30.net/kuvat.phtml?alku=2720&lkm=10

Ah, ok, I missed that part. Well in that case I suggest connecting both outputs of SPDT switches and mapping the switched off -signal too. This requires that the sim actually has both on and off actions for the given switch in its controls-options. Most do not, or allow only a few actions mapped on and off, typically landing gear up (1) and landing gear down (2). With that, you don't need any additional software in-between.

BU0836X does not use a diode matrix. The non-X version does. Each input has its own +5V and GND.

Here's another way to do it. I used two Saitek Throttle Quadrant clamps. They just happen to have the exact same spacing for the screws. Go figure.

Try SVMapper (free) or if you have more than 4 controllers, Xpadder which costs 7 €. Both solve this problem perfectly. SVMapper is very easy to learn while Xpadder is much more versatile and thus a little harder to figure out.

And if they don't, get a Leo Bodnar BU0836X card instead, the main difference is spring-loaded push-in connectors vs. screw terminals. Both are just as easy to connect.

A squadmate of mine had two bricked ones too. He is afraid to connect the third one he just received. It's a nasty situation when you don't know what to do. FWIW I say it has to have something to do with electrical grounding. The metal shell grounding through its environment somehow. There might be faulty wiring in the house. Just my 2 cents. My own WH works flawlessly.

I am a novice myself. I bought the woodcrafting tools (browse the images in the gallery to see them) for this project. I've never used a reciprocal saw before in my life, for example. I have soldered a little, but with the crimp connectors I have, only the 3 miniature switches for the (HUD day/night and norm/stby) had to be soldered. No, that's not the case. They are the same MFD frames. I just added a knob and a shaft. The shaft isn't connected to anything yet, though. First I thought it's going to be a decoration only, but when I installed them, I realised it is possible to use a shaft long enough for it to be connected to something behind the TFT panel. However, I would have to mount the panel a little higher which I did not plan for. I may not bother with it, but we'll see. The BU0836X card has got 8 analog inputs which are unused for now, so the electronics for 2 (or 8) knobs are already there.

Succellus, I'm not sure I read you correctly, but if you asked whether I modified (customized?) an existing panel OR built a new one from scratch, the answer is: I built it from scratch. I bought 12 mm plywood, painted it, drilled 10-12 mm holes in it etc etc. There are a couple of pictures of its insides behind the link I posted. I hope I answered your question.

Thanks. Yes they are. I'm making a short demo video. There isn't a switch under the red switch guard yet, because I haven't decided what it should be used for, but the last input on the BU0836X-card is reserved for that and a hole has been drilled. I'll probably make it either a STORES JETTISON or EJECT. I may have overlooked something so I'll keep one input in reserve until I've learnt to fly the A-10C and I know more.

@ ^ Thank you. A picture speaks etc: http://www.lelv30.net/kuvat.phtml?alku=2733&lkm=20 I haven't made a real parts list yet, but I may do so. I'll probably finish the floor-mounted panel first, though. The 8" displays were YN8088AV if my memory serves me. Just scroll back this thread, Kuky posted the exact type and these are the same. A factory in Hong Kong makes them. Switches are TSR-01 (2 positions), APEM 637H and 639H (3-positions, very good) and a cheap 3-position switch from Opencockpits (not recommended). Connection to pc through BU0836X. The next panel will be through a SIOC master card. With outputs :smilewink:. I'll light up the Master Caution push-button with that too, somehow. It's got a yellow 3 mm LED inside. Please note that the video card in picture # 2705 only outputs ONE (1) VGA-signal. Not two like I expected, because the model it replaced, did output two (through the DVI-connector). Only the upper DVI has VGA in this new model. I had to buy a HD5450 (which set me back 60 euros :cry:) and install it as a second video card just to run the second 8" screen.

My embedded 8" screens Pictures of my first panel with two 8" screens built in. I hope it is of use to at least someone as a source of inspiration. And one with the lights on: These are the same B-billion displays Kuky has got. Thank you for inspiration and information.

They look very nice. I'm interested in purchasing these too.

Please do, Rockeyes. I've been eyeing this board too for a while now, but their www-site offers zero information about the outputs when used with DCS -series. Specifically, what kind of output hardware should one have? Can you connects leds and LCD displays directly to iBoard?

Hey thanks for the instructions Rocketeer. I just installed the new "full" beta 3. Any idea why I'm failing the first step quoted below? No {F92...etc.} file ever shows up in \config\aircrafts\joystick, even though I can fly a mission without the sim crashing now. My Budnar card is connected, I even unplugged and plugged it back and rebooted and checked in device manager - it's definitely there and I can even assign switches to it in the options menu. Come to think of it my Warthog , my pedals or my MFDs don't get a config file there either. They used to, before I uninstalled everything and ran CCleaner just to be sure. Any :helpsmilie:would be appreciated.

8" TFTs coming this way :thumbup: Thank you for all the tips here and at 3 Sqd site, Kuky. I just ordered two displays just like yours for my Cougar MFDs. Incidentally we have the same kind of monitor too, judging from the pics you posted. Instead of a touch screen, however, I have an AHCP panel made out of real toggle switches between the MFDs. I'll post pictures when I have installed the displays.

Serial # 00118 Location: Espoo, Finland

Are you talking about the two throttle levers? The part that rests against your palm is aluminium - or at least it feels like it judging by its ability to conduct heat - but the rest of the levers is made out of plastic. Which is a shame, really. Then again Warthog would cost a good deal more, if all the intricate lever parts were machined too. The joystick grip is all metal, but you all knew that. It feels very, very good in my hand and it takes me exactly where I want to in the sim. Good job, TM.