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Everything posted by Blue73
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Cheers :). I'm currently building my own UFC as it's all part of a larger system.
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Looking great Mr Burns! VR still works with a pit, you just develop muscle memory. It's actually useful when you start off pitch black, you know where the buttons are to startup the jet and turn on the cabin lights.
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Not a problem rocketeer. You can either monitor the state of a DCS-BIOS control then trigger a sync or use the digitalRead() function to read the raw state from a spare Arduino pin. Every time a switch state changes DCS-BIOS generates an event that you can do things with. If you want a separate button to trigger sync then research how to connect a button to an Arduino pin: it's just two functions, pin setup and then the pin read. The code runs local to the Arduino, so D4 is always D4 for that board. If you go the Master-Slave route then it's still the same, the code on the master or slave only refers to it's own hardware. cheers John
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Hi Mr Burns, With my project, in keeping with the "modular" design theme each panel/box is self contained with it's own Nano. If a panel has too many controls then I'd need to switch up to a Mega which would require more real-estate. Each Nano has 17pins which can be used for digital I/O, 8 of which for analog.
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Very nice start chouclak! Yes be prepared for all your free time to be consumed by this project, it's the addictiveness of creation that keeps you going. I'll be following your build. cheers John
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Hi rocketeer, This is a DCS-BIOS mod, interfacing with the sim as a HID isn't applicable here. The Arduino function digitalRead(4) means read the state of pin D4 on the Arduino. The pin is internally pulled high and a switch or push button connected pulls it low. So active on pin4 is zero, inactive is one. My code snippet would need to have a '!' in front of digitalRead(). cheers John
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Hi, The wiring is complete, it's 4 lines to read the 20 buttons, 3 lines for each POT and 4 for the top selector. A single Nano will drive the DDI. cheers John
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Thanks Tom, thanks for the info, some great ref photos in there!
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Hi, not sure about a keyboard encoder but with a push button it would be. void loop() { DcsBios::loop(); if ( digitalRead(4) ) { PollAllControls(); } } void PollAllControls() { engAntiiceSw.pollInputCurrent(); cabinTemp.pollInputCurrent(); //... }
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Hi rocketeer, to prevent syncing you can trigger the sync only when a certain condition is met. For example another switch is toggled, or add a seperate momentary push button that when held runs the PollnputCurrent() routine.
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Hi Tom, That would be a fun project to do and much easier to achieve using your 3D scans. Are the SuperHornet grips the same as the F/A-18C? I might do it to my throttle using DCS-BIOS, I'll cut out a small port for a MicroUSB port for the Nano, or maybe go the standard HID route with a Leonardo.
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Hi, This is for a VR pit so I won't have a display. But if given a display's dimensions I could easily build around it.
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cheers mate, I used to build 3D models in Lightwave, Fusion360 is allot easier!
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Hi RightStuff, I size the best I can from photos only, all my stuff is like that. But I met someone just recently who owns a real f-111 simulator. I noticed allot of the knobs were the same as the Hornet. He's allowed me to go down there with callipers to build accurate 3D models. Those pull RADAR knobs were there, so they'll be updated. I was surprised how big the DDI is compared to the Thrustmaster DDI. cheers John
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Hi All, At the moment the DDI is work in progress. The knobs need vapour smoothing and I need to wire up the POTs and push buttons to the Nano. The push buttons have a 3D printed head that connects to the button. The travel is a smooth 2mm. The unit is scaled 1:1, 6.75" wide. Behind face plate. Front and mid sections. I'll print the rear box once I confirm the correct depths. I've got some 2mm perspex coming that I'll back paint dark green. cheers John
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Anytime mate! True I noticed it needs to send it repeatedly, eventually all controls are sync'd. Yes it makes no sense to sync encoders as it doesn't define absolute position, POTs are used for that. cheers John
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Hi, you just need to apply the code as shown in the example on the first post. Notably the PollAllControls() function and the calling code within loop(). cheers John
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AV8 3d printed nozzle lever for warthog throttle
Blue73 replied to FoxDelta's topic in Home Cockpits
That looks great FoxDelta, very nicely done!! -
Yes same experience for me, out of all the Nano's I've bought, and they were all from local eBay with free shipping, I've only had one that was faulty. And it was probably my fault anyway.
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Hi, The Nano's cost me $4AUD each, compared to each toggle switch, $5-$6, so cost isn't an issue. I didn't consider an all-in-one option, but this wouldn't work for my design anyway as the bus transceiver is tied to the box (DB9 connectors) and the controls are tied to the Arduino which is attached to the top plate. Having the two separated is more flexible, a single cable disconnects the two. I've got a good pace going with the front panel at the moment, when the printer is busy I'll take a look at custom PCBs. cheers John
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Sorry I didn't answer all your questions, I buy my ABS plastic from here, https://3dfillies.com/abs-filament-175mm-1kg/ The slicer is Zortrax's Z-Suite. It's worth investing in a decent printer to avoid being caught up with printer issues. I CAD the design during the day/evening and before I go to bed I set the printer going, by morning it's usually complete. My cheap Chinese printer before it was a right pain, I wasted weeks trying to get a consistently good print. In the end out of sheer frustration I bought the M200, around 2000+hours printing time later it's still going strong. The only maintenance is three nozzle changes. The amount of time saved easily justifies the price. cheers John
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Hi, Yes they're all flat on the bed.
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Hi Brewnix, No cleanup and I've only vapor bathed the control knobs on the right hand side. Yes printing with ABS, generally 0.19mm layer height. The top section of this box was at 0.14mm. The top 2mm plate was printed as a separate flat on the bed. The Zortrax printer is made to print ABS, I pry the parts of the bed, remove the supports and assemble. cheers John