BaronVonVaderham

Question on performance: I have had some performance issues with some servers, despite having reduced graphics settings and a quite high spec pc (7800x3d, 64gb, 4TB ssd, rtx4070, water cooling). I was told that I could backup my saved games folder, remove DCS, reinstall DCS, and move the saved games folder back. Is that known to preserve my settings, binds, etc, and improve performance?

Just now I think I found the culprit: OpenTrack/AITrack... Although previously I wasn't running them, I did have them open (I thin in case the battery of TrackIR ran our). Tonight again it didn't work, but then I checked if maybe there was a conflict with Opentrack/AITrack, so I switche dthem off. Then switched off TracKIR, switched it on, and started DCS. And voila, the second green light cam eon! So lesson learned: Charge your batteries, and don't run other trackers!

I’ll try the exclusive option . As said, left light is green, right light doesn’t come on, which means the sim is not recognised as compatible. (Which we know is not true, yet that’s what the cam indicates). don’t have any pause mapped, and I’m seeing the three lights on the top right in TIR. And I’m centered. It’s the only thing I mapped to HOTAS. It’s not other lighting. The lighting is always the same (night, dark outside, on,yon Leighton, when it works zero issues, until it doesn’t work. External light sources don’t switch off the right green light on the cam though, they show up as red interference on TIR. something else is goingon, because I played it fine without problems for several weeks, and then suddenly it stopped the right green light and didn’t work in dcs, until in unis tall every file and reinstall inform scratch. Then it works again for as long as I play. The onlything thatching, is that I switch off the computer when I’m done, and next day switch it on again. but here is a question: TIR has a stable and beta version. I’m using beta version, so maybe that’s what’s wrong?

And today the problem is back. Soo I have to conclude there is a bug with the software. Maybe I’ll uninstall and try the stable version instead of the beta version

A new flight with track file this time dcs.log CBU97 misalignment.trk Tacview-20240420-211201-DCS-F-16C - Caucasus - Free Flight.zip.acmi

Hi all, I think this is a bug, as I didn't have this problem before: When I use CBUs on the F-16, I seem to be consistently off by approx. 200-400 meters short of the target. Its always exactly in line with my flightpath, and always appears to be the exact same distance short from the target. This is when playing single player, F-16 Instant mission free flight in Caucasus (after rearming). It happens in CCIP mode, and CCRP mode. It happens when I use my HUD or HMCD for targeting in CCRP mode, and the TGP for targeting in CCRP mode. I literally need to anticipate the deviation distance to get a hit. I attached a bunch of logs as well as a tacview file. dcs.log ins_trace.kml.log real_trace.kml.log debrief.log DCS-BIOS.log DCS-SimpleRadioStandalone.log ins_trace.kml.log.old real_trace.kml.log.old DCS-SRS-GameGUI.log DCS-SRS-InGameRadio.log dcs.log.old Tacview-20240420-150153-DCS-F-16C - Caucasus - Free Flight.zip.acmi

Managed to resolve it. This is what I had to do: Uninstall TrackIR using teh windows add/remove programs function Run TrackIR installer and select uninstall TrackIR. Go to program folder and appdata (insave games) folder and find any traces of trackIR/NatrualPoint, and remove all of it, including USB drivers. Reinstall TrackIR using the trackIR installer. And now it works again... Go figure. I actually found the suggestion in a thread a couple of years old. the Win95 solution still seems to be the prevalent solution to fixes...

I did try to close trackIR as well as dcs, I also shut down and restarted my pc. The problem remains. The usb trick does not resolve the issue. left green indicated that trackIR sees the IR LEDs. I can see the LEDs move in the trackIR app and the main virtual ball (whatever you want to call it) moves perfectly fine. Right Green beans track IR is connected to a compatible app. Soo since the right green led isn’t working, the problem lies with the connection between track IR and dcs because dcs should work. I’ll try uninstalling and reinstalling.

I’m not sure what a rescan is. my usb port is not asleep. I tried the unplug replug truck but that didn’t work. . In the app I see the three ir LEDs, and the pointer moves across the reference ball in the app. The camera shows only the left Green light. Same for when I’m running dcs. Soo I think that has something to do with it. I tried plugging in and unplugging the camera but that didn’t work. I tried with restarting dcs but that didn’t work either. I tried plugging in the usb power connector, but that too didn’t make any difference. Soo note I’m at a loss about trackIR.

So, earlier in the week I tried out my trackIR. Played a couple of instant free flight missions in Caucasus, and trackIR worked fine, like a charm really. today I was flying a multiplayer game, and trackIR didn’t work. Tried to close and start it mid game, without success. Stopped the game closed it and started it again, but still no joy. is there something special I need to do with trackIR to getint to operate in a multiplayer game?

I installed the NLR software, and although I didn’t run it, it seemed to behave this time. So far so good. Ow play with settings. I’ll try the one by one approach!

So I’ve been playing around with the hf8 and simshaker, and besides not understanding how the turbulence options work, I noticed that there is a permanent rumble present. Possibly because the software is glitching, because any rumble present when I end a flight, doesn’t stop until I start the next flight or shut down and restart simshaker. so far the experience left me desillusioned about it. I definitely won’t miss it when it’s gone. Thumping and knocking would be fun, but everything just a rumble of some sort, just doesn’t feel interesting to me. it might be how I set it up, so if others could share their settings, then I can evaluate if I’m doing something wrong.

How do you guys set up the forces for a jet? I started off with 100% on everything, just to experience it, but that was rather underwhelming, in that it was pretty much incoherent vibrations. In addition, I had resonance feeding into my headset, making me hear the vibrations rumbling. I’m assuming that’s because I’ve not set it up properly yet. I’m using simshaker for aviators beta version, and fly predominantly f-16. if I can’t get it set up in a way that feels good/realistic/sensible I’ll probably return it. It’s a little too expensive to be just a gimmick.

Question: to use the hf8 with simshaker on dcs, do you use the usb connector or the audio circuit? (Or both?)

Hey guys, with the mig 29 coming up I was thinking about building a mig style control stick, potentially for use on a vpforce or the beast (I think that’s what it’s called). So far I’ve found only one 3d model for a stick for free, but it’s solid. There are other spyware models, but I don’t want to pay for 3D models without knowing if they are intended to be be used for building control sticks. Does anyone know where I can find a 3D model for constructing such a control stick? Anything from mig23 onwards would do.

Thanks, I’ll check that out. as for the USB affair, I have a North Sea coloured suspicion it’s to do with the panels I’m using. They come with backlighting and the Arduino powers that backlighting. It would totally not surprise me if that results in an excessive current draw (I need to get one of those usb meters you mentioned). They’re not my own design, and architecturally I would power the backlighting separately. the panels seem to use PCB’s for various reasons, one of them being backlighting, sometimes for routing signals to/from Arduinos. I might rip those off and redesign the circuits. Hopefully I can reuse the materials.

I couldn’t find the aura cleanup, but here’s the poop. Apparently ASUs aura messed up the lighting. It just somehow got triggered by usb power levels (I think). I removed aura and the led flickering stopped. However, I do still hear the connecting/disconnecting of a USB device. From what others told me, mobo USB ports can’t really deal with lots of connections, even if the USB hub is powered. The suggestion was to get a USB PCIe card. I still have one slot free, soo I’ll try that. I still find it dubious that a powered hub still overloads the pc USB port. Apparently, usb 2.0 can handle 127 seperate usb devices. it might be about the data bandwidth throughput. Arduino serial communication should not be that much bandwidth though. Would that cause the USB circuit protection to kick in though? I would have thought power draw is more likely to cause protection circuits to kick in. Currently there’s half a dozen Arduinos that drive backlighting and switches. In addition, there’s a webcam a keyboard, a winwing hotas set, a winwing icp, 2 tm cougar frames, 2 displays (power only), and a headset dongle. relativelyhigh data load, but not extraordinary I would have thought.

I’ll give it a go tonight and will let you know the results. in general windows is notorious for poor file housekeeping

I’ll try removing that stuff. I couldn’t care less about it to be honest. Their server connectivity is pretty poor. If there is another way to control the LEDs and the fans, I’m happy to accept recommendations.

Thanks for the response. Let’s see if I can go through your questions and comments: I did build the machine myself. It worked fine for the last 9 months until the flickering started a week or two back. The hub is a thermalright argb and fan hub x8 (I think. It doesn’t actually indicate the model, but that’s what my order history says). It is connected to the mobo using one pwm connector and one argb connector, and to the psu directly with a dedicated sata power connector. No other consumers on that cable. The aio is an Arctic liquid freezer 2 420 argb, and connects to the mobo directly. No separated power connector, So the aio gets its power from the mobo. The mobo had of course its own dedicated power connector with the psu. The other fans (6) connect to the hub individually. So the other fans and the hub get their power directly from the psu. In total two pwm headers and two argb headers are used on the mobo. I’ll see if I can make a drawing later tonight. The blinking started about two weeks ago, after 9 months of flawless operation. When it blinks, it’s all fans at the same time. It’s not really consistent either. Typically after startup it tends to be frequent, but at some point it stops. On other days it’s not frequent at all. But in all situations it does stop after a while. Once out twice I caught in the lower right corner of the task bar a usb symbol for a fraction of a second too short to click it I was told that indicates a usb load issue. Me playing DCS doesn’t seem to affect it in any way (unless the problem is the system warming up and the cause is a dodgy connector or contact somewhere) software wise, I’m using ASUs aura for the lighting (static single color, no effects), and armoured crate for fan operations. I think armoured crate includes aura as well.

Hi all, i have some problems with my PC. Recently the fan rgb LEDs started blocking off and on. Initially it was believed that this was caused by Daisy chaining two usb hubs. But after disconnecting the hubs altogether, the blinking still occurs. The frequency is inconsistent. Sometimes it blinks every 30 seconds, sometimes once every soo many minutes. pc is an ASUs 670e mobo with 64gb ram, a 7800x3d cpu, a 1200 platinum psu, an artic 420 aio, and 6 additional fans. for the aio the connectors are directly corrected to the mobo (pump and rgb). The 6 additional fans are connected to a thermalright fan hub for both argb and pwm. This hub is powered directly from the psu using a sata power connector. based on that, I can imagine 4 possible causes: 1) dodgy data power connector 2) psu output failure 3) fan hub failure 4) mobo failure I don’t have a spare fan hub, soo it’s hard to check if that’s the problem. could it possibly be a software issue, eg with ASUs aura creator? As a note, sometimes I did see a usb symbol flag for a faction of a Second when the blinking happened. This leads me to believe that the problem is a power problem.

You got them dimmer by putting a resistor in series? LEDs usually are current driven, not voltage driven, meaning that lowering the board across the LED actually doesn’t affect brightness (but could stop it from operating if too low). This is why PWM is normally used to dim LEDs. As for the result, whichever way you did it, the result looks really good! That’s not too bad actually. Even at 20mA you can still drive maybe 6 LEDs at full power? At 10mA you’d have plenty for the warning lights. Your design looks good. Do you print that in resin? I found filament had its limitations for accurate and detailed printing. i need to start designing my warning lights as well

My concern is brightness. Most 10mA LEDs I can find have a relatively low light output. The plan is to make them dimmable.

Anyone any idea where in Europe I can get a 10 position rotary switch that is below 5€? Soo far I can only find options that cost an absolute fortune

Nice. Idea, and good results! which LEDs do you use? There’s quite a few, and arduino nanos are quite limited in how much power they can switch, and you have quite a few LEDs there.