BaronVonVaderham

I’ll try removing that stuff. I couldn’t care less about it to be honest. Their server connectivity is pretty poor. If there is another way to control the LEDs and the fans, I’m happy to accept recommendations.

Thanks for the response. Let’s see if I can go through your questions and comments: I did build the machine myself. It worked fine for the last 9 months until the flickering started a week or two back. The hub is a thermalright argb and fan hub x8 (I think. It doesn’t actually indicate the model, but that’s what my order history says). It is connected to the mobo using one pwm connector and one argb connector, and to the psu directly with a dedicated sata power connector. No other consumers on that cable. The aio is an Arctic liquid freezer 2 420 argb, and connects to the mobo directly. No separated power connector, So the aio gets its power from the mobo. The mobo had of course its own dedicated power connector with the psu. The other fans (6) connect to the hub individually. So the other fans and the hub get their power directly from the psu. In total two pwm headers and two argb headers are used on the mobo. I’ll see if I can make a drawing later tonight. The blinking started about two weeks ago, after 9 months of flawless operation. When it blinks, it’s all fans at the same time. It’s not really consistent either. Typically after startup it tends to be frequent, but at some point it stops. On other days it’s not frequent at all. But in all situations it does stop after a while. Once out twice I caught in the lower right corner of the task bar a usb symbol for a fraction of a second too short to click it I was told that indicates a usb load issue. Me playing DCS doesn’t seem to affect it in any way (unless the problem is the system warming up and the cause is a dodgy connector or contact somewhere) software wise, I’m using ASUs aura for the lighting (static single color, no effects), and armoured crate for fan operations. I think armoured crate includes aura as well.

Hi all, i have some problems with my PC. Recently the fan rgb LEDs started blocking off and on. Initially it was believed that this was caused by Daisy chaining two usb hubs. But after disconnecting the hubs altogether, the blinking still occurs. The frequency is inconsistent. Sometimes it blinks every 30 seconds, sometimes once every soo many minutes. pc is an ASUs 670e mobo with 64gb ram, a 7800x3d cpu, a 1200 platinum psu, an artic 420 aio, and 6 additional fans. for the aio the connectors are directly corrected to the mobo (pump and rgb). The 6 additional fans are connected to a thermalright fan hub for both argb and pwm. This hub is powered directly from the psu using a sata power connector. based on that, I can imagine 4 possible causes: 1) dodgy data power connector 2) psu output failure 3) fan hub failure 4) mobo failure I don’t have a spare fan hub, soo it’s hard to check if that’s the problem. could it possibly be a software issue, eg with ASUs aura creator? As a note, sometimes I did see a usb symbol flag for a faction of a Second when the blinking happened. This leads me to believe that the problem is a power problem.

You got them dimmer by putting a resistor in series? LEDs usually are current driven, not voltage driven, meaning that lowering the board across the LED actually doesn’t affect brightness (but could stop it from operating if too low). This is why PWM is normally used to dim LEDs. As for the result, whichever way you did it, the result looks really good! That’s not too bad actually. Even at 20mA you can still drive maybe 6 LEDs at full power? At 10mA you’d have plenty for the warning lights. Your design looks good. Do you print that in resin? I found filament had its limitations for accurate and detailed printing. i need to start designing my warning lights as well

My concern is brightness. Most 10mA LEDs I can find have a relatively low light output. The plan is to make them dimmable.

Anyone any idea where in Europe I can get a 10 position rotary switch that is below 5€? Soo far I can only find options that cost an absolute fortune

Nice. Idea, and good results! which LEDs do you use? There’s quite a few, and arduino nanos are quite limited in how much power they can switch, and you have quite a few LEDs there.

Hey guys, what’s your experiences with using PCBWay as a supplier when based in Europe? To be a bit more specific, I’m wondering about order quantity for the same pcb. most of us typically only need a single pcb, maybe two at most, for each panel. That’s relatively expensive for them (and thus for us). However, if I order, say, 10 different PCB’s, does that compensate, or is there still a desired minimum for each pcb? i noticed that some communities tend to order bulk for those that want to participate. The other is about delivery times and prices to the eu. How fast/expensive are they in practise? Finally, what’s the general quality like?

Hey guys, can anyone recommend what kind of paint (paint type and effect) fit cockpit control panels and the crashes they’re mounted on? Most western jets use grey for the frames, with black for the actual control panels. matt for all of it makes sense functionally, but satin gives a nicer/premium feel. But also the paint quality is important. It should be durable and hard wearing, and it should be compatible with acrylic and PLA. Any suggestions?

3 weeks left for release… tick tick tick tock. considering they’re committed timeframes I bet they’re scrambling to get the mod ready.

Ah, the infamous vault. That’s my go to source as well. cool , I’ll check out what they have knob wise. I think I saw a spider in there, which is great! I saw a series of videos by ahornetsnest on YouTube. He too is stepping away from individual LEDs in favour of strips. I’d love to see how that works!

Love the progress you’re making! would love to see the radio & panel knobs, annunciator lights, korry pushbuttons etc. Would you be willing to share the stel files for those? i don’t t have a laser cutter/engraver or resin printer, but I do have a filament printer which will be good enough for my needs. I plan to print my panels with PLA. Haven’t decided exactly how I will build them up. I like your approach to the LEDs. It’s simple and effective. Do you glue them down to their mounting plate?

Do you need to use An extractor fan for the etching you do? I’m contemplating the exact same approach, though I don’t have a laser just yet. Space is a bit of a premium for me, so if I need an extractor fan, I probably pass. Have you got a video that’s how’s the effectiveness of the backlighting?

Looks like that might be my misunderstanding of the alignment process. I was under the impression it had to be verified within 2 minutes of completing the INS procedure. that probably explains why it always goes wrong. i actually also tried without pressing regret and just setting to nav after 8 minutes, without verifying. Which I guess is also wrong based on what you explained. can you confirm if stored alignment needs verifying too? I never do, but it seems to work well.

Hi all, just curious, has anyone tried printing a full cockpit panel before? I’ve been contemplating if it’s possible to print the main front panel of an f-16. i know a panel sent for for most printers, soo I was curious if someone managed to split something like that into several smaller parts

This makes sense to me. Though they could give it a better name. in fact, if I understood correctly, the main function is the same, but how it’s executed is by different algorithms.

Thanks! I found it baffling how they manage their software config management to be honest. They probably don’t, which is a recipe for disaster sooner or later. If they can’t name them consistently, how can we trust that the identifiers used for the auto update features to work properly?

Have you tried trackAI with opentrack? TrackAI is not the same as AItrack, and I’m curious how they compare. I’m aware opentrack can work standalone. Allegedly better than with trackAI, but I’ve not been able to get that working well for me. Too nervous and twitchy.

Thanks buddy! I kinda figured f360 cannot do that stuff (unless you model it in 3D like you said). It’s not really meant for that. good to know I can export a template and import that as a basis in Inkscape. I’ve not used Inkscape before, but if it has similar clever tools for equal distancing stuff in circular patterns, then I should be able to figure it out. Does it work in layers, similar to photoshop?

Looking forward to it!

Hi all, im trying to draw gauge faces in fusion, but can’t figure out how to do that. I cannot do it in sketches apparently because sketches don’t let me create line thicknesses and colours. but trying to make a drawing of a gauge face from a model of the gauge face also doesn’t work. Hell, I can’t even draw a circle and tell fusion what the diameter or radius of that circle should be. Drawing also doesnthave construction lines, which are incredibly useful for circular duplication of marks. so how do I do that?

Here’s a track file of today that shows my problem. And yes today it went wrong again CvLSK_RED_FLAG_22-1_2.8.5.2NoscriptsVisibleTGT-20231230-151040.trk

I’ll see if I can get those logs available through some online storage means.

did another flight, this time very careful not to touch any controls, and although not perfect on target, it looks like my joystick is the culprit and causes misalignment through slight movement. INS was about 100-200 meters off target, which may be due to default coordinates not being accurate enough. The Winwing stick I use has quite a wobbly center, and I probably did not set enough deadzone to cancel out input just by touching my chair it is bolted on. So, I am ordering the damper/spring kit from Winwing, and will try to get my hands on some nyogel 767a to grease the dampers with, and hopefully that will make the center tight yet smooth, and kill wobbling around on a breath. However, the algorithms used on the F-16 in DCS are way too sensitive if a wobbly stick causes a misalignment. A few millimeter deflection of control surfaces does not move the aircraft sufficiently to affect INS alignment. So this is an improvement to be made (Since we're talking about a game, and it cannot be expected for everyone to have an actual F-16 fssb stick, I think this is where some consideration is due in the software, to prevent unnecessary troubleshooting). Conclusion is: My specific setup revealed an over sensitive INS alignment algorithm

any idea when the ICP will be available in the EU store? Its on the EU store page, but listed as not available.