eaglecash867

Can't really say, since I've never tried an Index, but I have no trouble reading gauges with my Reverb. That's with 100% SteamVR SS, and DCS PD of 1.0. The thing just doesn't need any help with clarity. :D

Or, I can remove the nose seal like I already did. If I'm going to use anything on the lenses, I'll just use an old diver's trick and spit on them. ;) Removing the nose seal though had the added benefit of allowing me to peak at my keyboard when I need to. I have microfiber towels to clean the lenses with, and they don't need any help from any chemicals. :D

Its the new Tac Canopy by Bell and Howell. Only $19.95 plus shipping and handling. :D

It does fog up really easily, like SZE said. The way I dealt with it on mine was to remove the nose seal, it comes out really easily. I actually removed the nose seal to make it so I could peak at the keyboard like I did with my CV1. It had the added benefit of getting more ventilation to the lenses, so they don't fog up during the warm-up period.

Definitely down low, probably 200-300 AGL most of the time. About 312 KIAS. I do get the occasional ghosting of trees and buildings when over a fairly large city, but smaller cities give me no issues. I'm mostly playing around with the "In the Weeds" mission for the A-10C. One thing I have mentioned before, but not recently, is that there does seem to be a major performance hit when you have the TGP and MAV seeker displayed on your MFDs. But again, that only seems to cause problems over large cities. Once I get to the target area, with a smaller city, there is absolutely no ghosting, even with the TGP and MAV seeker active and displayed on the MFDs. Haven't been able to figure out how to get past the performance hit caused by displayed video on the MFDs over large cities, so I leave those on non-video pages until I'm out of those areas. Try that with your MFDs and see what kind of results you get.

If they're going to change anything, they should change the newer modules to have the same switch behavior as the A-10C. Don't go messin with my Hog! :D Maybe they could add it to the control options for the different modules. I'd love to be able to make the F-16 switches behave the right way.

You'll need both SteamVR and WMR for SteamVR. Once you have them both installed, you can just start DCS like you normally would, and everything that needs to run should run automatically.

Hi guys, I figured I'd start a separate thread on this, since the HP Reverb thread is kind of a broad topic (not to mention being over 400 pages long now :D ) Instead of typing everything out, I took a bunch of screenshots of the pertinent settings I have been using, with which I get really good results. I don't want to flood the forum with a bunch of screenshots, so I'm just going to post a public link to my DCS album. Feel free to take a look, and keep in mind that these are the settings I'm happy with. Your mileage may vary. :smilewink: For anyone not familiar with Imageshack, once you pull up the first image, you flip back and forth through them using the left and right cursor keys. https://imageshack.com/a/A7xo/1

I remember when I went from the CV1 to the Reverb, I noticed the absence of godrays, but I remember feeling like it wasn't a big improvement over the CV1. But then I used the Reverb for a few weeks and got an urge to try the CV1 again, just for giggles. It was going back to the CV1 that made me say "Wow! This looks like crap compared to the Reverb!"

Nope, its not impossible, because I'm doing it. :smilewink: SteamVR SS, just like DCS PD, is a major performance killer. Also, my experience with MSAA versus SS for eliminating jaggies doesn't support Thud's conclusion. Sorry, but I have to go with what I have seen myself, not with what somebody is telling me I should see. :thumbup:

I've been on the Beta since day 1, pretty much. Not sure what its like now, but back then it was the only way to get access to motion reprojection. But, the resolution shown at the bottom, at least in the earlier Beta, didn't show anywhere near the Reverb's native resolution. I still saw no quality difference between 100% and higher values, so I left it at 100% and its been that way ever since. :D

Aurelius, if you're keeping your SteamVR SS at 150% like you have mentioned a few times, that is what's causing the ghosting most likely. But, I just had a thought pop into my head about the only difference I know of between my rig's specs and pretty much everybody else's (with the exception of your rig, which has the same amount of memory, memory faster than mine). I have 64GB of memory. Maybe that's the difference? Don't know. But I do know that going above 100% SteamVR SS is asking for trouble. I started off by believing the "Set it to 188% to hit the native resolution of the Reverb" myth. But that turned out to have no benefit, and it made me so frustrated with the Reverb's performance that I almost sent it back. Then, I tried playing with the SS settings, and found that, to my eyes, there was no visual difference between that and 100%. I can post the other stuff you're looking for when I get back home this afternoon. :) BTW, just to be clear, I do get occasional ghosting depending on what's going on in the DCS world at that moment, but its rare enough to where it makes 4X MSAA worth it.

I have had this happen a few times in the last couple of weeks, but mine has only been a brief glitch, and then I'm right back to my normal view position in the cockpit. Pretty sure you're right about it being related to a SteamVR or DCS update.

The way I see it is that time is money. An Inateck card costs about 28 bucks on Amazon, with Startech cards being higher in price, and may or may not solve the problem, but it certainly won't make things worse. Sometimes it just makes more sense to throw a part at something and see what the results are. :D

Heh. I had gotten used to simply being able to plug things into a self-powered, external USB hub, that I was completely baffled by the erratic behavior of my CV1 and HOTAS when I first got the CV1. For some reason, my CV1 just didn't play well with my USB hub. Definitely fickle things! :D

Yup. Just like Don, I have a powered hub for my HOTAS. For my Reverb, I use a PCIe USB 3.1 card, connected directly to my rig's PSU. HMDs, especially, can be real bus power hogs, so they need clean, strong USB power to function reliably.

Your Reverb probably isn't getting enough power through the motherboard port. I used to have all kinds of random display issues when I first started in VR with my CV1, and installing a dedicated PCIe USB card that plugs directly into my PSU solved those problems. That's what I have my Reverb plugged into now, and I have never had a display blackout problem. They're relatively cheap. I have an Inateck 5 port card, but others have had a lot of luck with Startech cards as well.

What is your Reverb's USB cable plugged into?

If you've managed not to fall into the 1903 trap, definitely stick with 1809. Mine ran fine with 1809, and doesn't seem to be quite as clear now that I have fallen into the 1903 trap. Don't get me wrong, its still very clear, just not as much.

I'm running 100% SteamVR SS, along with 1.0 PD and 4X MSAA in DCS with my Reverb, and I have no smeared trees or buildings, except for the occasional ghosting. Are you sure you have Motion Reprojection turned on in SteamVR's WMR plugin? I get the smearing on pretty much everything with that turned off. I think the biggest thing though is SS/PD. You shouldn't try to run your Reverb at the same, slightly more than 1.0 settings you're probably using for your Rift S. The Reverb doesn't need it, and it very rapidly degrades performance with no visual benefit. That's the only place I disagree with Thud's guide, the SteamVR SS settings. He suggests using anywhere from 100% to 200% SS in Steam VR, but I have seen no clarity difference between 100% and 200%. But, with 200%, I definitely notice a pretty severe performance hit that makes the game unplayable.

Angry Birds VR? I've gotta try that! :D

I try to minimize the risk of damage to the most expensive component, which is my 2080ti. So I leave the cable plugged into it all the time, and just plug my headset into the cable when I want to use it. That cable costs peanuts compared to the video card. Even the HMD itself is far cheaper to replace. When you connect the cable to your headset, I have found that being sensitive to how smoothly and easily it plugs in prevents a lot of the hiccups associated with that DP style connector. All it takes is the slightest misalignment when plugging it in, and you'll freak the headset out to the point where you'll need to unplug it and let it rest for a little while so everything can discharge and get happy again. So, just always remember to shoot for a smooth plug-in. If you feel any resistance or drag at all, just back it off and try again until it slides in and clicks into place easily.

No, but I did see a difference in how high the temps went when I went past 4.7 manually and was doing video encoding. Not sure how I would notice a difference between smooth and smooth. That's why I don't use FPS counters. If my eyes can't see the difference between smooth and smooth, everything else is irrelevant. :D

For the cable issue, I usually just sit on my cable while leaving enough slack in it to allow for unrestricted head movement. Since the cable is so stiff, it pretty much stands on its own and doesn't pull down on the HMD when I have it set up like that. That has the added benefit of relieving mechanical stress on the connector. Unfortunately, DP connectors are very fragile, unreliable, and cheesy, so they need all the help they can get. Wish the manufacturers would have gotten that figured out before forcing it on everybody as the new standard. I know your question about OCing was directed at Sze, but as for me, I didn't have any noticeable improvement in performance going from 3.7GHz to 4.7GHz. It might make a difference on the FPS counter, but I figure if I can't see it with my eyes, it doesn't matter what the FPS counter says. I just left mine at 4.7 though, because it does seem to make a pretty big difference in other applications, such as video encoding.

A pinkish smudge? Hopefully you didn't end up making the same mistake I did. When I got mine, I didn't see the protective film on the lenses. It was so thin and looked transparent in lower light, that the only way I knew it was there was when I was wondering why there was this strange distortion of focus and color in one spot on the screen. Because of how the Reverb settles into my face, the main problem I had after getting the protective film removed was with a blue halo around the edges of the display, most visible at the bottom. It turns out that my eyes were just a little too close to the lenses, so my solution was to put a cheap piece of self-adhesive foam weather stripping on the face pad to push it just a tiny bit further from my eyes. Something like that may help with your nose issues. It would be really cool as VR progresses if someone came up with a phone app or something that lets you take biometric measurements of your face and have a custom facepad made for you.