rocketeer

Did some improvising. There are some toggles that are flat topped. These cost $49 each. So I used this 29 cents nylon flange. Covered the opening with epoxy paste. After painting, it looks like this.

Today the 45 degrees rotary switches arrived. Just as the 30 degrees ones, I could set them to any number of stops. With them installed, the panels look a bit more complete. Now waiting to get the various knobs from ehcknobs.com After looking at the pictures posted by Matt, I changed my push buttons to grey.

As Fry's doesn't sell the 45 degree rotary switch, I found onlinecomponents.com sells it, for the same brand GC. Actually it says made by C&K on the switch. This is a 1/4 inch shaft with D shape. I like this type of shaft as I can secure it well to knobs with a set screw to the flat side.

Looking at the left and right side panels, there'd be over a dozen rotary switches needed. After analyzing the angles, I conclude that most of them require the 45 degree rotary switch, while only a few will be 30 degrees. Luckily Fry's sells the 30 degress rotary switch, and I bought a few to experiment. Although the package label says 4 position 30 degrees, I found that I can remove the locking ring and reset the number of positions to anything between 2 to 12 positions, of course at a fixed 30 degrees. After removing the first two rings, there is a third ring with a leg set in one of the holes. After prying this out with a small screwdriver, I tested putting it to the max, position 11. Considering the default position as position one, one turn points to position 2...11 turns point to position 12. And you are not restricted to even positions, you can set it to odd positions like 3 or 5 etc. So essentially although it says 4 positions switch I can set it to any number of positions I want. I've ordered similar switches but for 45 degrees. Note, before setting the number of positions with the locking ring, first rotate counter-clockwise all the way to the left. Then the number of positions will be set correctly.

Just came back from a CNC class at Techshop across the bay. We learned how to operate the desktop router CNC. The brand of the CNC is called Techno. Discussed about software like Mach3, solidworks, Cut2D and Cut3D etc. Then we learned how to install the end mill, which was a two flute 1/4" shank. Then we each get to have hands on for one pattern, loading the file, doing zeroing, setting speeds etc. Kinda fun. Sorry pictures taken with my iphone which has crappy camera. The material used was blue foam. I also talked to the instructor about cutting and engraving on acrylics.

I think the thrustmaster site states the dimension of the MFDs. Personally I won't build my own to achieve the exact A-10 dimensions. If TM can fix the quality problem then I'd buy it, since they look nice and even has backlighting. But there are two switches that need to be changed for the A-10.

That LCD screen is not tall enough to cover the top part of the MFD. I think he had some constraints making it vertical. I guess the best solution is find a more squarish LCD, if one exists.

Alex, look at this link. http://forum.virtualthunderbirds.com/viewtopic.php?t=3096 This guy put a small Samsung LCD screen behind the MDF frame and made the two look like one product.

Cat, I'd still be in the same town. Alex, I think most people will use Thrustmaster's MFD. It has nice backlighting, same dimension as the real F-16's, but is a bit different from the A-10C's. And quality seems to be an issue. I read that many breaks down soon after a few days.

Thank you! Just in time as I start my A-10 pit building.

Link is not working.

Hey buddy, merry christmas. I don't have the dough to buy a house. Just going to rent a bigger place across the street, partly so that I have my own garage, ie. workshop and space for a pit! Been renting two bed room apartments with small balcony is just not going to cut it for pit building. ;)

I do have the book above. Alex, I do not have experience with mechanical gauges. So for now I'd probably use something like LOVP and use a monitor for the gauges. if I figure out the mechanical way or learn from one of the other guys I might do attempt this approach. As for the interface solution, currently I am leaning towards OC. Initially I thought of using Hagstrom for inputs, but looking at its keyboard emulator, pots and encoders cards, they add up to cost a lot more than OC's cards. Plus Hagstrom does not have any cards for handling outputs, just inputs. OC can do both pretty well.

Oh I see. That was from the released A-10C preview pictures several months ago, so I thought it was the most updated pit configuration. Wow, even that is outdated. Thanks for the info. I look forward to more updated pictures of the A-10C cockpit next year.

I followed the layout of the picture below, so the order looks right, unless you are talking about another panel.

Pardon my ignorance Wags, when you say TVM do you mean the panel highlighted in red below?

Hi Wags, good to hear from you. I thought the TVM is behind the LASTE panel.

Besides the print outs on the cardboard, I added a few toggles (most two positions, some are three position types), push buttons, a few knobs which have 30 degree rotary switch or potentiometer below them. I've ordered the 45 degrees rotary switches, which are the majority of rotary switches required. The cool thing is that these have many positions and are not fixed, you can set the number of stops easily. More detailed pics.

I've been researching on the A-10C. Info for the A-10 is limited, especially the C version. Since I've been away for a year and missed out on building the Black Shark, I've decided to do the up and coming A-10C, which is my favourite plane in Lock On anyway. Buying the Modern Hog Guide really helps. Currently I have limited space till I move next month, so I can't build any pit. So I decided to focus on the components on the side panels, which is a lot of work, finding the knobs, 'inventing' some of my own, deciding on the angle (30 or 45 or 90 degress) and the number of positions for the rotary switches etc. I started by printing the panels and stick them on cheap cardboard as a prototype, to figure out the dimensions, layout, spacing etc. So this is what I have so far. I even have to put these two below the dining table for space.

Good idea about the step ladder, except that it takes up space. Not sure about the remote wife control part. Usually the hubby is the remote control for the wife. don't think such a wife exists, unless she is one of those in the show iRobot.

I have the book 'modern Hog guide' and the A-10C gear lever is still bent

Thanks for explaining that. I guess for those that will be turning frequencies will require encoders, while those for fixed positions we'd use rotary switches and the rest like volume, flow level, temp level etc. we can use pots. Still going through each panel trying to determine which should use what.

I love the curved side enclosures. Looks very nice, like the body of the plane. I also like your idea of putting the pit on wheels. One question. Normally a pit with just the side panels is low enough to step into. With the curved sides, it looks too high to step over into the pit. How do you plan to get in? Make the seat slide out on tracks or make one side panel swing out sideways on a hinge?

Thanks for sharing this! What are the dimensions?