Jimbo

WOW!!! I love how clean that cabling is :) mine looks like spaghetti! :) How are you finding the ERWR? i'm thinking of getting one but haven't really seen it in action anywhere.

That's awesome! Wish I had the space for that setup.

Hi Hans, I was lucky enough to find the full NMSP unit on ebay, the seller was feathersJim, but he's ceased trading a while ago and I've struggled to find good A10 parts since. The NMSP is from an A model so the text is incorrect, no EGI label for example. It's on my list to find out how the lens is made and investigate ways of replacing a few. To be honest, i'm hoping it's be as simple as having a couple of things laser engraved and replacing the lens. I'll try and document a breakdown of the unit this evening so if you need any measurements please let me know.

Hi All, I thought that after years of lurking around the forums it was high time I started my build thread, partly, 'coz I need some advise ;) but mostly because I love a good build thread myself and thought I may as well show you guys my efforts so far. I also hope this will keep me spurred on to finish the project. I've spent the past couple of years accumulating parts from ebay and the creative geniuses on this forum, getting to know what I can / cant do and what the community has made available. As always, the usual protagonists need to be thanked Gadroc, Dimebug, Deadman, TomDK, Glider, Linden and far too many others who have helped me add to the 'stash' (and given my wife good cause to angrily wave a bank statement at me!) So.. My build so far hasn't exactly followed a plan. I have dived in and been tinkering with various components without a way of tying it all together until I finally put Dimebug's plans into action. I now finally have somewhere to stick all the panels etc. The Stash: I used plywood for the construction which worked really well, but it'll take too much work to hide the wood grain that i'm reverting to MDF for the main console. This looks like it'll give a good impression of smooth metal. I'm now working on the 'Big T' in the central console as this'll give me good bang for my buck. The base is plywood with a 6mm MDF front. To hide the joins ( and my questionable woodworking skills), I've been smothering wood filler (does what it says on the tin) on it then sanding, which is so far giving a really smooth finish. Stuck together and first coat of paint: Test fit: Test fitting the gauges: Fitting the Annunciators: The Gun Ready LED needs looking at as it's far too washed out Lighting up the displays: Im working on wiring up the NMSP & gear panel. Hopefully more updates after the weekend.... If I can get the damned cat (aka the wing commander) to movethe

Thanks for the advice guys, i'll give some of those ideas a go and let you know how I get on.

Hi Deadman, As always, thanks for the quick reply. This is the frame i'm trying to put together (pls excuse the crew chief :lol:): You can see the mitred corners here (i'm not 100% this is the right thing to do): with this epoxy: Any pointers much appreciated.

Hi All, I'm working on the left and right consoles from Dimebug's plans, but I've hit a snag. I have 16mm Square aluminium tubing that I'm using for the DZUS rails, but I cant figure out how to stick the corners together. I've mitred the edges and they have a clean, close fit but anything I do to join them is too weak. I spent the weekend smearing it all in a ton of epoxy, gave it 2 days to cure and came in now to examine my handy work; which disintegrated when I picked it up :( What technique is everyone else using? Any pointers appreciated. Jim

From memory (and it's been a while!) I think that if you put a diode in the circuit, the action of flipping the switch causes a pulse rather than a solid on connection. Have a look at the x-keys manual: (http://piengineering.com/techdocs/manuals/XK-0988-UNM128.1088.pdf) I'm guessing this should apply to most matrix type boards. I have a Leo Bodnar at home so will try this out this evening.

+1

PM Sent.

I didnt say it was an elegant solution ;) I peeled back the rubber (I guess water resistant cap) and managed to expose enough of the old wire to solder the connection back on. Thankfully, the wire in question was top left, so I didnt have to damage it too much to find the relevant connection. I have the links to the manuals at work so will post tomorrow. Gives a pretty good schematic of whats going on inside the thing.

Thanks Deadman. I managed to find the install manual with pin out info on it. Back up and running :)

Hi All, I've been re-wiring a Jay-El (type 10648 ) switch on my NMSP. In doing so, I've managed to pull one of the wires out of the back and cant see a way to disassemble the case to re-solder the wire back on. At least not without braking it. Anyone ever seen the inside of one of these things? Any pointers much appreciated. Jim

Thanks for the update. No need to worry about shipping. Take a break, be with your family, certain things are more important; which we all understand. My thoughts are with you.

I'd echo what BHawthorne and others have said. Start with the off the shelf kit you'll need (stick, rudder throttle). This gives a great level of immersion without the need to have a fully kitted workshop in your house. Like yourself, I have no clue about electronics, programming, woodwork etc. But as you start (and start small!) you will pick up a great many skills. These forums are a treasure trove of knowledge about pretty much anything! For the items you cant build yourself (panels etc) you'll find someone here is way ahead of you and already has them for sale. I havent progressed my pit much, but the things i've learned here will be with me for the rest of my life, irrespective of pit building or not, I how have an appreciation of electronics etc. The danger is that you get so absorbed learning how to put all this together that you dont end up flying much!! I havent flown in about 3 months as i've been too busy burning my fingers with a soldering iron :). I personally prefer learning the how to's than the flying bit! I have to add, for me at least, nothing was as exciting as wiring up my first switch and seeing my physical actions happen in-game. A real sense of achievement that will only build as you learn more. My advise is to start slow, break it down into sub projects and research accordingly. Maybe build a small input panel with maybe 5 or 6 switches. The guys on these forums are amongst the most helpful you'll find, so if you need help.. ask away! :thumbup:

The other thing worth mentioning is that the acrylic is backed with a shiny, white plastic film, i guess this helps reflect the light back up. The piece I have is 4mm thick, so a bit chunky when you consider the layers involved in a panel. I have my team at work dismantling all our old laptops (for environmental recycling reasons cough cough). I hope to find a thinner panel to try with.

Just got my gear panel... Work of art :) If there is ever another run, do not miss out!!!

I spent last weekend looking at different ways of back lighting the (magnificent) panels I got from Linden. I'm pretty nervous of drilling into the panel to insert an LED, as this is the kind of thing I normally screw up :) and risk ending up with no panel at all! I've also seen how an LED behind a panel causes brighter spots so isn't an even distribution. Searching various forums I came across EL tape and panels, which look like they'd do the job but at a hefty price (well beyond my budget at least), Ithen remembered that I have a broken old 15" LCD in the loft and perhaps it may have an EL panel as the back light... No such luck! On takign it apart I found it has 2 fluorescent tubes side lighting a clear bit of acrylic. BUT.. I found the acrylic to give a PERFECT and even light distribution when I put a couple of LEDs onto it. I believe it is PMMA acrylic and bounces the light forward. Pictures speak 1000 words (and this is hard to describe!! As always, this looks better in person and less washed out) I wonder if any of the guys with a laser engraver could replicate the refraction pattern? Could be a cheap solution. Jim

Don't do it Linden!! Threads like yours are inspiration to many others!! Who's ideas am I gonna steal now?! :)

The software 'locks' the card. So you cant have the Phidget control panel and Helios running at the same time. Use the phidget software to make sure the LEDs are plugged in and working, then make sure you close the app. Then run Helios and configure as needed. Before you run the game, exit Phidget panel, run Helios... Should work.

Look amazing - I'd be interested. Let us know once you have a price in mind.

Very cool!

Thanks for the info on where and how much it would be to get this cut. I wonder how many others out there are interested? If demand is high we may be able to do a larger run and save a few quid. Any takers?

As an ex air cadet also, i'm glad to see this kind of 'community' project. If this had existed in my day, I don't think you'd have been able to get me out with a crow bar! Good work!

Check out the for sale thread. There are a bunch of guys offering various components. Linden has some really good panels here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=93150 I can vouch for the quality as I have a few and have ordered some more. and Deadman is producing knobs here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=91929 I havent yet seen many front console panels, but I would imagine they will be available soon enough (Linden, any plans?)