Boltz

Ragerin that resistor looks fine. Use the formula R(Resistance)=V(Voltage)/I(Current). Voltage in a series circuit, which this is, is calculated by taking your supply voltage (5v but you can only get multiples of 1.5v in standard batteries) and subtracting the forward voltage (voltage drop) of your LED (1.5v.) In this case you have three LEDs so take the 1.5v off three times. This leaves you with a calculation of R=5-(1.5*3)/0.015=34 Ohms Resistance. The 0.015 is the forward current in Amperes (15mA=0.015A). Look for a resistor of at least 34 Ohms and you should get what you want. I have based these calculations of of the numbers you entered into the calculator. This should show a breakdown of what it did but I don't see why it gave you 39 Ohms. That must be a standard resistor. Those IR LEDs show a forward current of up to 100mA so for increased brightness you could increase to around 80mA due to the tolerance of resistors i.e. they are not perfect and the percentage of tolerance is how accurate they are so a 100 Ohm resistor with +/-5% could range from 95-105 Ohms. Always assume it will be the lower number (which could be why the calculator got 39 Ohms) but as long as you aim for a sensible proportional current less than the forward Voltage (IF) you should be fine. That probably wasn't the best way to explain it so you can do a search on google for more information but thats the basics. Hope it helps, Boltz

Great thanks JaseGill. Hopefully will soon have a finished ACES II replica ready for some top quality panels.

I contacted Glider a week ago about getting some panels but he hasn't been back on since...

Thats a lot more than I was expecting even though I knew it would be expensive. I guess you will just have to connect the flight controls up to pots or hall sensors with some sort of feedback unit to provide resistance. Probably be a lot of work but you should end up with something a lot more realistic feeling than a TM Warthog with a stick extension!

I too am in for a copy of the book. Would be great to have this build properly documented.

I haven't bought anything 'replica' for my pit yet but seeing this I think I need to change this and look at making a much more realistic cockpit. Could be a while though before I am at the stage of purchasing these though.

Thanks Deadman. I knew they had to have some protection. Looks like I'm going to have to work out a way of building these for my pit. I haven't been able to find sufficient photos till this point. Thanks, Boltz

This looks incredible. Are the emergency brake and canopy jettison just pulled to activate? Do they have any locks or buttons that need pushed or rotated? Thanks, Boltz

Deadman that is going to be amazing! Probably the closest any of us can get to an actual A10 cockpit section.

My pit is built from Dimebug's plans and the Saitek Combat Pedals fit really well

Looks great. I really like the detail you have put into the seat HarSu.

I had £20 TM race pedals lying around and I used them for a year before getting combat pedals. Flight Sim recognised them as a single axis. The cheaper ones just seem to use a single axis. Worked fine for me.

Link2FS_Keys unlike Sn0w_Lynx's method uses an indirect input method in which something must go between the hardware and DCS World this is where Link2FS comes in. With Link2FS_Keys you do not need to fabricate any circuit board with capacitors or something to produce pulses. The code that you load onto the Arduino only outputs changes, which through the software, are just set to send key presses. You can use different ones on press and others on release. This way DCS World is not overwhelmed by continuous commands being sent at it as it only receives changes in switch state, just the same as using a keyboard or mouse to control switches.

That looks incredible. I really like the engine instruments:thumbup:!

You could also think of using an Arduino. Most people find them a lot more complicated than a joystick controller but they do seem to be cheaper. I use them in my pit and for a while I was using a program called Link2FS_Keys fromhttp://www.jimspage.co.nz/arduino_keys_beta.htm (scroll down to version 4). It allows toggle switches to be used and outputs key presses. It can handle combinations and is very simple to set up because it requires no .lua file modifications as it runs completely seperate from DCS.