Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by molevitch

  1. The door is approaching completion. I have to adjust the frame though, annoyingly… Bolts and levers, bell cranks and cables, door piston and spring catch all modelled. 6E815012-DFFC-4C04-B59E-24125EDDA26B.MOV
  2. I recommend googling Hall Effect Sensor and seeing images of how they work. They operate over quite small distances, and can be set up to read rotation in a number of different configs. There are many examples of their use here in ED forums, with custom mounts hand made or 3d printed. they are also slightly more forgiving engineering-wise, and do not wear out from friction, as they have no contact with cogs or such. The orientation of the magnet to the Hall could be done in a few different ways to work with your gimbal. i use them in various ways, though recently I have replaced the ones on my cyclic for potentiometers and am much happier with the result….
  3. Yeah, I spend way more time building than flying! (Sorta feel there’s something wrong with that…. Whatever!)
  4. Thanks Les, cracking the DCSBIOS networked issues made all the difference, 90% of switches now functional. But I jump from one thing to another depending on inspiration, so one week it’s electronics, the next month it’s Stanley knives and corrugated card boxes!
  5. Amazing thread about your stunning build! I love the “before and after” pics 2012/2022. All this work takes a lot of time and real dedication.
  6. I now have 90% of the pilot cockpit switches fully functional, though with one or two needing editing/debugging. (Isn’t that always the way?). Everything is running on DCS-Bios and 1 Bodnar board (for the cyclic/collective). It’s great to be able to make weapons selections from the weapons panel without using a mouse, and make adjustments to the ASP-17 on the fly, change radio channel, select radio, hit the flares button etc. But I still felt something was missing…. Then I found myself with some large sheets of packing card after a delivery, and thought of a better way to recycle them. Now I have to model and print the door holding piston and the opening handle and bolts, make the faux leather map and tool pouch, and decide what livery to paint. Will glazing with domed acrylic be too much?
  7. I look forward to the next big update for the Mi-24P, which is my all time favourite DCS module! Keep up the good work, ED, we all love you really!
  8. Really useful and very well explained! Thank you.
  9. I use VoiceAttack for these kinds of commands. It works beautifully for me.
  10. WOW! Thanks @gnomechild, this is great. I wish I knew how to do this kind of stuff….
  11. Hi guys. I hope somebody can assist. I have my SPU-8 panel setup in DCS-BIOS on a RS485 network as a 6 position switch. I fly predominantly in multiplayer squad Black Shark den, where we use Ciribob's Simple Radio for inter flight comms and intercom. When I had the Mi-8 setup for SPU-7, also in DCS-BIOS, it worked in Simple Radio for changing radio choice. What I have been unable to figure out is how to do the same for the Mi-24.... Am I just being dumb? If anybody has this working, would you mind sharing some info, eg SRS settings, DCS-BIOS sketch for SPU-8, etc Any help greatly appreciated!
  12. Camera rails like this are designed to NOT slide! Better to use something like this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09MQB592F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. Right side Circuit Breakers panel is now finished and mounted, though not yet wired up. A couple of minor tweaks and improvements planned, but not essential. Oh, and it needs a handle, 8mm aluminium tubing ordered, arriving next week. (I also know I have a couple of extra switches which are blanked out in DCS....) From here, I go back to reconnecting the Electrics Interface panels, and then on to wiring and setting up the Dashboard elements, Map box controls, Compass switches and Heading setter, Rad Alt Height adjuster knob, Gyro switches and Pedal damper switches. I will also be integrating the ASP17V controls into the dashboard. 8FD5E596-3803-4A84-B735-AA038AFA6E6F.mov
  14. Tempted? Hell Yeah! But fortunately common sense prevailed…. I have enough else to get on with, and the CBs are the least of it.
  15. This joystick uses 2 x potentiometers. A potentiometer has 3 connections. Ground, 5V and Signal. So you connect the 5V to the 5V on the Arduino, the Signal to an Analog pin, eg A0, and ground to ground. For DCS-BIOS code, use the potentiometer strings, not the pins.
  16. Hi Bateman, DCS-BIOS is kind of an advanced user’s interface for custom controllers. What is your intention with it? I see you have downloaded DCS World, but what modules do you have running, besides the default Su-25 and T-47? The DCSBIOS environment is primarily used with peripheral hardware, button boxes, custom setups, flight panels (radio types), reverse engineered authentic avionics and other equipment, as well as other applications and interaction with DCS. So what are your hopes and intentions with this? What controllers do you have? Does the DCSBIOS Reference app get listed in Chrome Apps? It usually has an icon looks like a very small page with pale green highlights. If it is there, what happens when you click on it? Do you have a Saved Games folder created? Are you using DCS Stable version or OpenBeta? Whole lotta questions from me! If you can give us more information about your plans, current setup, experience with DCS, and what you plan to fly, that will help to give answers.
  17. Update on work in progress- Circuit Breaker panels. The left-side one is almost done. Slightly off scale, narrower than the real thing due to the rest of my build… but I think that’s ok. Each bank of switches is a dummy, and only the lowest one will activate all in DCS through the Hall sensor. Magnets will give a bit of “clicky” resistance and snap to the action. Reprinting the black handle as it looks too big, and needs to be in 2 halves for a cleaner print. The paint finish will get some aging and scratching too, to look more worn in and abused. And labels added too. Already working on the right-side panel. 9D89BA05-E085-46A5-B731-3D73D54F6904.MOV
  18. Double sided tape will let you down. 3d print some holding brackets for your USB hubs.
  19. The Max487 chip is connected to a 4 pin connector, or rather to the 2 signal and 1 ground. The other from the 4pin is carrying 12v to the vin pin. On the other side of the max 3 wires to D0, D1 and D2, etc. as directed byHansolo. when I say “direct into a USB port”, I mean by a cable… The shield is one I have used before, a Wingoneer off Amazon. What I am at a loss to explain is: 1. The shield works when a serial sketch is used, but not when a slave sketch is used. 2. The RS485 network works when the max487 is connected to the Arduino with no shield, and the switch wires also. With the shield in place, the Rx and Tx diodes do not light up. Remove the shield, it all works. So right now I am contemplating dumping the shields in favour of wires soldered onto header pins connected directly to the Arduino. i will take some pics and post later.
  20. They only fail when used with RS485 network. If I use as a serial solo panel direct into a USB port, no problem….
  • Create New...