Triggerhappy69

I've still got to design the Cannon trigger in such a way that it's possible to make. And then test it.. I can post the drawings for the mountng bracket and Launch trigger if you want?

So do I my friend.. because I am sitting here with Leo's BU0836 Card in my hands right now..:music_whistling: I ordered it a week ago, and it got here today..! A lot quicker than I expected..! So tonight is dedicated to making the matrix and finally connecting the collective and pedals (with Hall Effect sensort). FINALLY I get to actually try DCS Blackshark..! YAHOOO..! And this card ROCKS..! I made a simple 6x6 matrix like Leo Bodnar describes on he's website: ... I have connected all sorts of strange sh*t to it now. And it just works..! I even thought I had ruined it by being a bit "cross-eyed" when soldering, but it still works just fine.. Good Job Leo bodnar..!:thumbup: Leo's Website: http://www.leobodnar.com/

ABSOLUTELY..! Go for the highest resolution..! It just makes the whole thing more presise, and you will notice it (at least if you compare two joysticks directly). And if you plan on using hall effect sensors, the higher the resolution, the happyer Swetrekki..:thumbup:

Love the way that Collective seems to feel... You've got to give us more pics, and some info dude.. I'm dying here..!

Ka-50 3D and Schematics .. 'donno if this is what you were after, but it's what I found on my computer..

Cyclic Stick Here's a short picture series showing how I made the Cyclic.. First the drawing for the Cyclic Top Box: And here is the Pdf file: KA-50 Hocas Top Box.PDF I started by forming the Plug out of styrofoam. DO use styrofoam because it's easy to remove with gasoline later. Check it for size on your stick. As I mentioned earlier I found an old Thrustmaster Top Gun stick, and simply cut the top off..! The bottom part has all the buttons placed just right for a Ka-50. Now after mounting the foam plug on a holder, I started putting on layers of fiberglass cloth with epoxy glue.. (Use the one-hour glue, or thin out five-minute glue with paint thinner to make it set slowly) Leave it to harden for at least a couple of days.. I know this is difficult for some of us.. But the Epoxy needs to completely hardened to not dissolve when you use gasoline later.. And the using a dremel or a pair of small sissors you trim of the edges roughly. In my case I actually had to add some more layers of fiberglass cloth to make the box 100% rigid.. Never mind the overall look of the box at this stage.. You will need to do some serious sanding later anyway. Just make sure that you have the basic shape of the box, and no air pockets in the fiberglass.. Some rough trimming and another check on the Cyclic stick. Now start digging out most of the styrofoam with your fingers or a blunt object.. Try to avoid using a knife, because it will most likely either cut you, or damage the box (.. wise from self inflicted damage :cry:..) And then remove the last foam by pouring gasoline into the box and leaving it for ... I dunno.. maybe 3-5 minutes..! and then pour the gasoline out.. Let the box dry for 10 minutes before pouring more gasoline into it. This is so you don't make the epoxy resin go "spungy" and soft.. Repeate untill the foam has all gone.. At this point I had done some serious sanding and painting (naturally I was so in the "zone" I forgot to take pictures :huh:). I cut the plate that holds the buttons from a sheet of 3mm plastic I had in my workshop. 'Dunno what it originally was for, but it doesn't matter. Use whatever material you feel is right for you. Another test fitting to please my ever growing ego..:music_whistling: And naturally I had to add the buttons and POV Hat to give myself wet dreams that night! And that's really all that there's to it..! Easy peasy if you ask me.. The supplier that has all the old Thrustmaster and SunCom sticks and spare parts can be found on this adress: http://www.computerpartner.no/frame_uk.html you can contact them at: http://www.computerpartner.no/shop/catalog/contact_us.php?osCsid=54629dccdb53c6aa991cd15221125462

That is sooo cool Sokol1..! :thumbup: It looks really good, and when you paint it, it will be just perfect,,! I used the grip from a Thrustmaster like the one pointed to in the link above. All I did was to cut off the top and replace it with my own box.. If you need drawings I'll get riight on it and try having them ready by tonight for you..:joystick:

I really liked it..! Anyone know if Youtube downloader works in Eeeubuntu..? I'm stuck here with only my Eeepc..

Some thoughts arround this.. The Cougar grip, allthough the excellent quality it has, might make the stick a bit top-heavy..? It's made from metal and you would have to consider a sollution like URZE's balancing stick if you choose it. I used an old Thrustmaster FCS (is that what it's called?) stick. It is made from plastic and dirt-cheap on e-bay.. And it also has every button placed right on the stick. Well almost ever button. I had to add one pushbutton on the lower leftside pinkie. but that was just a question of gluing it in with hotglue.. Naturally the top is all wrong, but making a new one is a lot easyer than you might think.. AND there's a lot of old Sun-Com sticks arround to.. I have the adress to the guy who ran Thrustmaster here in norway. And he has a bunch of old Sun-Com and Thrustmaster sticks in stock still.. AND spareparts for both of them.. If you are interrested I'll give you the adress?:joystick:

Got them all fixed now...:music_whistling: If the dimentions are wrong now, we BOTH have a problem.. :cry: Ps. They are in the same post as before.. I just did some editing.. You'll find them here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=27270&page=46

The only things wrong are that the Pedals are not symetrical.. And they should be.. And the Main Crossbar is to short.. You would only get 7-8 degrees movement before the CrossBar hit the Pedals.. I'll post the right dimensions later.. Everything else is 100% correct.. ...sorry mate.,..:cry:

Neat Joystick Setup..! MatGreGor.. I have to give you credit for this setup.. The rails coming out of your "joystick box"..? Are they for attaching the whole thing to a chair? .. and I just love the box you made.. Am I right when I belive you have the electronics for both joystick in there..?

WARNING..! If anyone have started using my drawings for the Pedals, You should STOP RIGHT NOW..! A wrong calculation apeared as I was fine tuning the CAD Assembly. The Main Cross bar is to short compared to the real thing, and the pedals are not symetrical for some reason..? I'll fix the drawings and post an update...

It looks like Catia?

Vortex? Did you get the driver, or have i forgotten about it? ... I seem to be forgetfull these days...:cry:

.. Good work mate..! i would say START BUILDING it.. That's going to be one he**uva pit..!

:music_whistling:.. They are coming mate.. Since I had to take the collective mech apart anyway I decided to paint the whole thing now.. I just know that if I didn't It wouldn't get done. Pictures of Ejection Seat with Left and Right Rear Wall attached and painted will be my next update.. .. now where did I put those hall-effect sensors anyway..:cry:

.. oh yeah..! I almost forgot.. I did the leak-test with soap that you discribed.. And it came out with nothing..! And with a 6mm tube there is no need to have a reduction valve either.. Actually it's just perfect.. But I will add the resarvoir tank and one-way valve like you said..

Quick update: I filled the system with hydraulics oil, and got rid of as much air as I could before sealing the system and testing.. And IT IS BEAUTIFULL...! I can not belive what a difference using "real" actuators and a good On-Off valve makes. Now when I release the collective brake handle it just STOPS..! And the only play I can detect (and I had to really look for it) is in the 0.04mm gap between the threaded rod that the Collective turns arround and it's ball bearings.. So next now is the final sanding, some paint and re-assembling the Left Rear Wall. Thank you so much for your input guys..! With your help I have finally got the Collective that I was aimimg for.. ... drinks are on me..!

..ok... It seems that if I pump A LOT of preassure in the system it is close to the rigidity I was going for.. But not quite..? So I will try running a thin mineral oil in the system. But thaty opens another question. Will I ned to build the storage tank and one-way valve like Swetrekki made a drawing off? And what is the puspose of this tank?

... What if I used a heavy duty cyclepump to compres the air in the system? Would that make it more rigid? And is it possible for me to run some kind of thin fluid in the air-system if I'm not satisfied with just air?

A reduction valve... Hmmm...? That was i brilliant idea..! I'll go get my hands on one right away..!

The Collective control the angle of attack of the rotorblades.. Basicly when you pull the collective stick up the rotorblades twist so that they "dig in" to the air for more lift.. 'Kinda like a boat propeller does..

These? [ATTACH]23423[/ATTACH]

I have started on the drawings for you just now Sokol1. You should have them later tonight or tomorrow depending on how tired I get..