Triggerhappy69

You'll also find it here: http://www.4shared.com/file/R-fFts9E/A-10_Instrument_panels.html And pictures and detailed describtion of it's funcions are described in the A10 Flight Manual inside one of the other RAR files here:http://www.4shared.com/dir/OhTVLa0i/A-10_files.html (Courtesy of 'Strandedducling'.. Cred to you for your excellent work)

I completly understand your confusion mate.. And I'll try to describe it for you, allthough I'm not the best at the details of SIOC programming. That would be Oakes if think. But here we go.. DCS export all numeric values to a kind of memory bank using a programming language called LUA. Where in the "memory bank" each value is placed, and details arround each spesific value is configured in the export.lua. The OC USBServo cards are connected to your pc through USB or a mastercard.. How and when and what you want the servo to do is configured with the SIOC software. It can either read a specific value in the same "memory bank" and respond to changes, or it can respond to input from switches connected to other OC IOCards if DCS doesn't export the state change for this specific action. The reason for this is that with SIOC you can make subroutines that simulate functions in the cockpit that DCS don't include in the export.lua file. However in your case you just need to tell DCS to export the values you need to control your ADI. Then you make sure that SIOC is looking for these values in the correct "memory bank's drawers". And when you have confirmed that you've made LUA export the values to the same place you've told SIOC to look, then it's time to tell each servo how to act on these values. This is also done using SIOC. So in short it's DCS->export.lua->"memory bank"->SIOC->USBServo Card->kick ass ADI working..! (... I hope Oakes will read this and fill in the obvious blankes here...)

Thanx ..! :) You are quite right about the last pictures being of one of the three way switches. I have played arround with several different ways to make these special three/four way switches in a way that is practicly possible for anyone to do. And at the same time small enough to fit in any instrument panel (APU, right switch panel, overhead panel and so on). And also using only allready available matereals or donor-parts and hand tools.? Since the general idea from my APU Panel seems to still work like a charm, and feel like a "real" switch, after months of abuse. I just took the principle from this 4-way switch, and shrinked it to a footprint of 25mm X 40mm. The whole process of building one of these switches and installing it in the panel takes me a couple of hours from start to fully functioning switch now. The reason for the odd "picturial" update is that I'm writing a "how-To" on the 3/4-way switches right now. Hope to post it by tomorrow..

Just a little update... c",)

I know... It's sick..! But I just love a sence of humor like this..!:thumbup: ..rep inbound for making me laugh..

check out what our own BadCrC writes on Leo¨s forum: http://www.leobodnar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=294 and : "On the page that you purchase the card I noticed (don't remember exactly where) that you can request the card you are purchasing to be named something else. I would suggest for future purchases to use this feature. As for renaming the cards after purchasing them well lol I have no clue I just got my first BU0836 in the mail 2 days ago lol EDIT: found it! even though I only have one chip for now I'm always going to use this option to be able to have a custom name just ensure I never run into the problems I've seen occurring on the forums here. When you name them, just name them after what kind of module your going to use them for or if you order in bulk just have them numbered x through x, just so your computer and yourself will know which is which..."

Thank you.! :) Well, after ordering from several suppliers on Ebay, and finding them a bit shortcoming as far as having a good selection of gears go, I went for a Webshop in the UK.! They have a good selection, and are one of very few European based webshopsin robotics. (most others are in the US! And allthough the US based ones are realy kick-ass good. They suffer from the whole shipping time and cost dilemma for us Europeans.:cry:) http://www.technobotsonline.com/gears.html For US based pitbuilders I'd check out SDP/SI website. These guys have EVERYTHING you could possibly need as far as mechanics go. And then some..! Prices are reasonable, service is excellent, and so is quality.. .. so why not buy from them you ask? ...... well.?!...... ASK! First of all check out theyr catalogue.. It's MASSIVE..! This is a good thing up to a certain point. But SDP/SI range of types, sizes, imperial or metric and whenever I open one of the PDF catalogues I end up spending at least 1/2 hour just flipping pages and dreaming.. It's just to much for me..! But they have an excellent customer service. So if you have looked through it all, and concluded that they don't have the needed product. Send them an email..! Because I can almost categoricly say that you are wrong..! in 99 out of 100 cases they have what you want.. You just didn't find it..! LoL.. http://www.sdp-si.com/

Did you get the answer you needed mate? I wasn't 100% sure if this was what you asked for..

CONNECTING IT ALL At first I was planning on using the connection cards that connect directly to the mastercards:: But instead I have chosen the slightly more complicated, but a lot cheaper method of : And naturally a sickening amount of USB cables and stuff is required to. ... not to mention gears for building the instruments: ..an assorted array of switches, resistors, diodes, encoders ... .. more resistors... .. more switches... .... an absolute minimum of stepper motors.. ... pneumatic actuators.. .. hydraulics.. ... solenoid valves.. .. toggle switch covers.. Hmmmm.. And to my surprise I need a house with more space for my hobby..? ... now I'm just overcome with tiredness and need to go to bed and forget I ever took inventory on "The bare essentials of Pit Building" 'night all:doh:

[QUOTE=Deadman;993399]Trigger looking fricke great !! I have one question for you. What does the open cockpit cards work with? Switches, LED lights, servos,step motors ? Thanks :thumbup: Well here is my current collection of IOcards from Opencockpits: I'll explain the function of each card roughtly. THE MASTERCARDS AND USB EXPANSION CARD The Mastercards (left and right) are the central of the IOcards, and each one has 72 inputs (for switches, push buttons and such) and 64 outputs (for LED's, relays, lights, servo motors, dc motors, stepper motors and so on). And lastly it can control 64 seven segment displays through an external displays card. You can connect the Mastercard directly to your Pc through the parallel port, But that would restrict you to one Mastercard for each computer. So instead I chose to connect the Mastercards through a USB Expansion Card. One USB Expansion Card holds up to four Mastercards. Giving you 288 inputs, 180 outputs, 256 7-segment displays or 1792 LED's. In addition to that the USB Expansion Card has four analouge inputs where you can connect your axis. You can connect multiple USB Expansion cards to a computer..:smilewink: USB OUTPUTS CARD USBOutputs has been designed to control up to 64 outputs (each output up to 50 volts, 500 mA, with a maximum total current of 2,5 Amperes). The card includes a pulse width modulation dimmer with 128 steps; this card is perfect to control leds, lamps for indicators and backlighting systems. In addition, the card also implements 5 analogue inputs. It connects to the PC via one USB port, and the controller is managed via IOCP protocol and SIOC software. There is a specific testing software to make any test in a graphic way. This option is really interesting to configure the devices connected to the card. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - USB port connection - Up to 64 digital outputs of 500 mAmperes. - Up to 2.5 Amperes (total output) and 50 volts. - 5 analogue inputs (8 bits). - PWM Dimmer control (7 bits). - Connection to SIOC software - Visual software for testing and configuring USB STEPPER CARD USBStepper has been designed to automatically work with both unipolar and bipolar stepper motors. IIt's used to control stepper motors in the instrument gauges. I'll be using stepper motors in the instruments where the needle has continous rotation or where precise motion is needed (ADI, HSI, VOR) It connects through a USB port to the computer, and is controlled with SIOC software. SPECIFICATIONS USBSteper: - Has an USB connection - Controls up to 3 stepper motors - Controls unipolar and bipolar motors - Has connectors for position sensors - Has 3 analogue inputs (axles) - Each motor can be fed with up to 36 vcc and 1 ampere. USB SERVO CARD The USB Servo card connets through USB to the computer, and is controlled through SIOC. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - USB connection - Able to control up to 6 servo motors. - Able to connect up to 4 A/D converters (8 bits) - Software to connect to IOCP. - Servo motors are controlled with a 10 bits resolution; possibility of disconnecting any motor. I'll be using the servo card to control the indicators that don't turn more that 360 degrees. (like the indicator needles in the exhaust temperature instrument) 7-SEGMENT DISPLAY CARD This card manages common cathode 7-segment displays. The card is connected to the Mastercard BUS, and it can control up to 16 displays independently. The power needed to drive the 7-segment displays is given through the Mastercard BUS. Up to four displays cards can be connected to each Mastercard. So one Mastercard can manage up to 64 7-segment displays (and remember that you can have four Mastercards connected to one USB Expansion Card! I'll use them to display all numeric values in the instruments and radio/navigation panels. I just got this batch of 7-segment displays the other day. The big ones are for panels, and the small ones for instruments. USB KEYS CARD This is basicly a keyboard card. Meaning that you can connect momentary switches or push buttons to it, and the computer will see this as a keystroke. It's quite a hassle making the required matrix to get full use of it. But is I was to buy one card next to the obvious BU0836X card from Leo Bodnar, it would be this one. I'll be using this card to make a "hidden" keyboard in my cockpit (if I ever get arround to require one). ENCODER CARD Is not required to be honest.. I got mine because I had a bunch of non grey-type encoders that I was planning on using in the pit. But then I got sobre and just bought the right type encoders instead.. MUCH SIMPLER..!:cry:

That has got to be the nicest thing anyone have said to me..! :worthy: thank you..!

Got some work done on the right switch panel today. Lots of work left on this panel. First I have to cut out the openings for backlighted text in the front panels (not showing in these pics). Then I have to build some kind of return spring mechanics for the switch covers. This will also hold a position switch telling the IOcards weather the cover is up or down. AND new pivot brackets for the covers that allow them to be mounted closer to the front panel (because as it is now, the toggle switches aren't long enough to protrude throug the switch cover when I make holes in them) The simple gauges shouldn't be a problem, just time consuming... And naturally the aluminum inter switch guards have to be cut out and bendt to shape.. ... oh yeah.. then there's the small matter of connecting it all.. (I got a HUGE shippment from Opencockpits the other day, I'll post pics later tonight)

1.) Send single keypress with Leo Bodnars I/O Cards: Try dowmloading SVMapper software from here: http://forum.sukhoi.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=70479&d=1173468799 And notice the "repeat" setting next to "mapped key on press". If you set it to "1" it will only send the key command once. Then do the same for "mapped key on release", and you should be on your way..!:thumbup: 2.) Get the toggle switch safety cover to work with the sim I'm working on that right now for my own Right Side Panel. Stop by my thread in a week or so..:cry: Connecting LED's to Leo Bodnars Controller Cards: For a way to connect LED's read Leo Bodnars own reply at Leo's forum: http://www.leobodnar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4 "You need to use DPST switch which is in effect two independent switches in one housing: http://www.colehersee.com/04resource/dpst.htm It might be easier to find DPDT (ON-ON) switch, and use only one side of the contacts: http://www.colehersee.com/04resource/dpdt.htm Here is how to connect them to the BU0836 with an indicator LED. To light up an LED you can use any +5V pin and any GND pin (e.g. from an unused analogue input set.) Don't forget that normal LED needs a resistor to limit the current flowing through it. 330 Ohms is a good start but you can calculate exact value if you know LED voltage drop and required current. Altogether you can power 20-30 LEDs from one BU0836 if it is attached directly to the PC or powered hub and about a dozen if it is attached to an unpowered hub. Cheers Leo "

Are you sure you don't mean the Cyclic Mold Stonehard? Here is the 1:1 JPG file for rough cutting the foam plug: And here is the same in PDF format (printers generally don't consider scale when printing JPG files): And some pics from when I made the plug for my Cyclic:

Actually, I'll make a video later of me being a little brutal towards the Center Consol mechanics..

Good question there.. This issue haunted me for a long time during the building process to be honest..! The calipers release preasure is set by the strength of the springs that pull them back into a locked position. And to my delight it hasn't shown any sign of even slightly slipping so far, but time will tell if I need to replace the springs with stronger ones. I don't think I ever will though..!:music_whistling: Even the pedals, that are acted upon with A LOT greater forces, are rock solid heldt in place.. but ask me again i a month or so?

Finally got vidz working Finally... Thank you.!:thumbup:

I did make it without any cnc in fact..! And it's a lot easyer than you might think. The parts you need to buy are: 1.) The Toggle Switch from a Fender guitar (see pic below). This one is my favourite because it is easy to take apart. I think it's for a Fender Jazzmaster. What you want from this switch is the ball and axle it pivots arround. The rest is junk. 2.) The Fuelø tank Clunk from an old RC plane/Car/Helicopter (see pic below) The rest of the parts are things like the spring from a ball point pen. Some copper tube from that same RC fuel tank, and any fibreglass or plastic plate that is rigid enough yet easy to work with. ... and that's basicly it..? I'll be making the three 3-way switches for the right switch panel this week.. If you want, I could post a small how-to on building them?

I just wanted to share some progress pictures of the Right Switch Panel, and it's coming along.. As you might have noticed, I'm putting quite a lot of effort into making this panel as detailed and realistic as possible. Trying to find 3D details in the pictures that I can incorperate into my panel. Alloff this just to make it less 2D and maybe bring some more life to the panel..? .... But why bother you might wonder? (you most likely don't, but I choose to disregard this fact simply because it would ruin my train of thought..!?) Mainly because it is the one panel that's ALWAYS staring you in the face whatever angle you may view the cockpit from. But most importantly because It's on this panel you start in the simulator, and if your lucky you end with it to..! AND you have got time to study the panel in detail while you wait for the APU, ABRIS and such..

FINALLY..! c",) At last someone took the plunge and started researcing a DIY force loading joystick.. My respect to you..! ... and I'll be watching this thread closely for updates..

I have made a folder consisting of various documents conserning the MIG-29 Cockpit at my 4Shared site. If you download this: http://www.4shared.com/document/rfmXxiCa/Manual_Mig_29_Luftwaffe.html for the MIG-29 Nato manual. And this: http://www.4shared.com/file/z2Y1-9hB/Mig-29.html for various other pictures and documents. Also the files consering the Su-27 Cockpit will help you, since many of the panels are the same: Su-27.rar

Excellent job mate..! It's strange, but you'll get a much better feeling of immersion just from being seated in a chair like this.. I promise you..! I would maybe tr to curve the back just a little. Or at least use padding that does this for you.. And I'm talking from my own back-aching experience.. LoL.

the link:

Video of the Trim Force Mechanics, without power on the trim release motoers How about now? Or go to the link: