Triggerhappy69

Thanx guys..! That means a lot to me reading this.. thinking ... I bugger..! I have painted myself into a corner now, haven't I..? What I'm trying to say is that it really motivates me reading kind words like this. And I appreciate it A LOT..! But it came out as something sounding more like sarcasm.. hehe.. ... I'll just go to bed now..:thumbup:

Pitbuilding Update - 02. september 2010 - Right Main Switch Panel Tonight I did some work on the Right Main Switch Panel.. Mainly because now that the Front Pedestal, and HOCAS is nearing completion (pics and video coming soon), I want to have some switches to flick on and off while I set up the IOCards. As you see I haven't decided on weather to just have the text backlighted, or if I should also mount the switches on a plate about 3-4mm behind the front plate, and let some light shine through arround the switches as well? .... yup..! It's fiddely and time consuming work.. Just a mock-up to see where the backlight cut-outs should be.. The switch covers will have a small magnet glued at the rear of them. This magnet will then trigger a reed switch telling the simulator that I have opened the switch cover. I know it may sound like a bit much, and that I can program the IOcard software to send both commands when I flick the switch. But I want it to work just right.. And it's really not that much extra work..:cry: The four way, and three way switches however.. I can't say I look forwards to another round of building those.. LMAO..

And the MIG-29 manual: Manual Mig 29 Luftwaffe.pdf

Also this .png picture has both english and russian explenations:

Here's the Su25 panel doc:

I am pretty sure I have a translation of the '25 cockpit panels at home. Gimme a couple of hours and I'll post it here.. M'kay..?

Pitbuilding Update - 24. August 2010 - Trim Mechanics.. again I got arround to re-assembling the front pedestal with the Trim mechanics some more yesterday. And I guess you all woun't be awfully surprised when I tell you that I had to do some minor modifications to it..!?:music_whistling: Here's an picture taken from the front, showing the Force Trim plates sitting nicely in the Calipers. Idid have some reservations to weather this would work glitchless.. But my fears were pointless..! It actually works perfect.! So if you want to spend a seemingless ridiculous amount of time building something that essentially is ... a joystick? Please feel free to contact me, and I'll tell you how to...:thumbup: Also I have tried one of two alternate sollutions to the Yaw Pedal bearing.. This is the center hub from an old harddrive. And allthough it works fine, I'll be replacing it with somethimg more sturdy... Just becuase... I installed one of Leo Bodnars BU0836X Joystick comtroller cards to run the axis and buttons from the stick (and some of the panels functions). And this new one with quick-connections and an integrated matrix is just EXCELLENT..! I'll be using more of these, that I can promise..! The motors that activate the Trim Calipers run on 24V. So I connect the 24V powersupply directly with the thumb-button on the cyclic stick. And then activate one of the inputs on Leo's card via a relay (the black little thing in front of the screw connection). The relay is a simple magnetic one, and should last a lifetime if not overloaded. M-m-M..! Cyclic Stick with a new layer of paint over the filler and scraches.. Looking good, don't you think? The buttons have been replaced with more sturdy ones (allthough these are not of the "click" kind). And they'll be painted white as in RL. ... and the wheel brake is undergoing a facelift to..! I'll be addding the little lever that hold the wheel brake handle in it's locked position (see next two pics). ... But that will have to wait for another day..! The Trigger mechanics are next in line for a re-make. It looks 'kinda empty without it there..:cry: The Cannon trigger will be completly rebuildt. So that it's impossible to activate the cannon while I pull the trigger down from it's "inactive" position. Not a bad resemblance from the real thing if you ask me..! Specially when you consider the fact that I had no pictures of any detail when I designed it.. Just some blurry photos from a Youtube movie, a lot of guessing and hours and hours in Solidworks..

How do you manage mate..!? First the Su-25T cockpit, and now this..? Both just beautifull..! .. I am filled with envy...

I came across these sites while wasting time ion the internett today: Military Mag-Lock Switch 20,- USD http://catalog.magnumsims.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=713573 Gauge Military Threat Warning Receiver (Mockup non-backlit) 15,- USD http://catalog.magnumsims.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=713524 Military Stick Grip Used 120,- USD http://catalog.magnumsims.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=713532 This is an A-10 Panel isn't it? http://www.magnum-aero.com/avionics.html

Seing this I would have to agree..! Wait for the Warthog OTAS..!

Why don't you go for something like this to get the stick closer to you while seated?

-Huh...?! I didn't know that? -Now that brings on a lot of mixed emotions mate.. :cry: Because allthough I strongly recomend you choose to prioritize differently next time, I would like to add that you do seem to have a hidden talent in construction. -LoL, And you're funny as well..! Good work mate.. keep at it..!

everyone else.. Just go to my 4Shared site and download the manuals from there: http://www.4shared.com/dir/Joo3U9fB/sharing.html

Pitbuilding Update 14 August 2010 - Front Pedestal with Trim Force motors Just i little redo of my original one-motor sollution..

Stonehard and Triggerhappy's build night .. I'll try that first and let you know.. Thnx..:thumbup: I had a visit from Stonehard here at my place for a couple of days. Mainly just a social visit, but also we were going to build a FFB stick and hydraulic collective for him. Stonehard even brought he's own PC so we could fly some BS together..! But we didn't get any time to do this unfortunately.. Maybe next time Stonehard? Me cooking our supper..: We used a pneumatic actuator to work as a Collective Base with Collective Brake integrated. A springloaded actuator to allow for the difference in volume between the sides of the main hydraulic actuators piston. (one side has the axle in it, remember.?) The 24V solenoid valve: Stonehard's Collective switch box: The Hydraulic Collective System: A 24V solenoid valve opens when you press the Collective brake handle. And you can move the stick freely. When the handle isn't pressed, you still have a little "emergency collective" to play with. But the stick will return to it's previous position, and no new zero point is sendt to the autopilot. Good for when you need to adjust your altitude over ground while hovering in a steep slope.. Here you see the complete system assembled: Attaching the Collective to the hydraulic cytlinder was quite simple. 119 kr (15 Euro) Force Feedback Amplifyer form Ebay: I came accross these little H-Bridge kits on EBay. And if all goes as I hope, I'll use them to amplify the FFB motors on both my own A-10 stick, and Stonehards.. As you see, I have buildt one already. I'll let you know how it goes..:cry:

I have the original russian Combat Manual, and the NATO Flight Manual for the MIG-29. If you give me your email address, I'll send them to you so you can go through them and see if you find a referance to the control stick part number somewhere inside one of them?..?

OMG, I MUST have that pilot figure..! Where did you find it?

Answer to question one: Yes.! I am doing a conversion to USB, using Loe Bodnars BU0836X right now in fact.. It's really quite staight forwards, as far as conversions go. But you will have to remove all the electronics, resolder new wires to all switches and replace the connectors that run between the Stick and the Throttle with new ones. question 2: I tend to favour hall effect sensors before pots. Becuase they are much more precise, and don't suffer from the old "spiking ghost" after some use. But the original pots are quite good. So if you don't want to go through with all the stress of hall effect conversion just keep the pots. On the throttle there's a thumb microstick that I chose to replace with an old coolie-hat. But you can set the original microstick up as two axis if you want. This will require that you figure out the pinout of the microstick wiring though. Shouldn't be a big issue... Question 3: One in each is time saving because you can skip the wire and connector replacement between them, But it's also a waste of BU0836X cards. your call.. My experience is that both the stick "box" and the throttle "box" are just a little small for the BU0836X cards. you can just bearly fit the card inside with a little convinsing.. Actually the BU0836 card would be a better fit. But then you will have to REALLY think through the wiring to get the right matrix.. I went with one BU0836X placed inside the throttle, a cable between the trottle and stick, and two more connectors for external rudder pedals and a collective stick. I'll post some pics when I finish it later today..

Good idea.. But I can just about weld steel well enough to save my life. But Aluminum man...!? NO WAY..! It just keeps melting on me..

Pitbuilding Update - 7th August 2010 - Almost there now.. Almost..! Well, I did some finishing and pre-finish assembling tonight. Just to see if it all comes together nicely. First I added a Mini Moto Steering damper to the pedals for the right "feel"..! These little thingies are just great for adding that "hydraulic feel" to the controls. And I attached the calipers to the bottom plate, and checked for any allignment issues. None found (thank god.. or who ever..) I'm not quite satisfied with the way the force gradiant units are attached to the Trim plates. So I have decided to use these Ball joints instead.! Now if I could only find a way to attach them to the Return Spring Cyliders like this..? ... Maybe you guys have an idea..?

Good point there mate..!:thumbup: I'll have a look at SDP/SI homepage and see if I can't find some gears with the right size and relation.. Because that WOULD make the instrument a lot simpler to make.. .... if I find the right gears that is..

A small picture update here:

Simple..! I just admitt to being a complete moron, and re-design the whole thing..! LOL

AAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaargh..! I just noticed a mistake on the faceplate..! The "EGI" text should have a white background..! I'll fix it, and post new drawings..