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  1. I flashed the firmware last night. Everything is back to factory shipped status. Pretty simple procedure...not sure why so many people warn against doing it.
  2. I know, I know.....LOL. I'll give it a go tonight, and see what happens.
  3. I'm starting to think the best option is the nuclear option, and just do the firmware update.
  4. I thought about that, but I keep seeing these YT videos warning against flashing the firmware unless you absolutely have to. I guess that would be a last resort of sorts. The weird thing about this is the button numbers of my throttle in the mode section of the configuration software. All the pictures in the software document on Virpils' website, and all the YouTube videos, show mode one thru five to be buttons 67 thru 71. On my throttle, with the current firmware, and less than two months old, mode one thru five, are buttons 68 thru 72. If I change the buttons back to 67 thru 71, I lose mode one. What happens in the latter is when the mode one switch is on one, mode two is selected in the configuration software. When the mode switch is on mode two, then mode three is selected in the configuration software, and so on, until you select mode five on the hardware, then just button 72 gets selected. I guess I have a talent for mucking things up.....LOL. Regards, Tim
  5. Yes. I wish I had calibrated, and then saved the profile, but I didn't. Live and learn I guess.
  6. I bought a new CM3 throttle this past winter, and I'm just now getting around to setting things up. As the old saying goes, you don't know, what you don't know. As I was creating my first couple of profiles, I realized I didn't save the bone stock baseline profile that shipped with the throttle. I've somehow lost "mode 1", and I know that if I don't stop now, and reset things to get all five modes back, I'll wish I had, at some point down the road. If anyone saved the baseline profile that ships with the CM3, and can post it here, I'd be most appreciative. Thanks, Tim
  7. And just for posterity, and future searchers, I have a VKB Gunfighter, MFG Crosswind, and Virpil CM3, all plugged into a powered USB hub with 7 ports, one fast charge port, it supports USB 3.0, and they work fine. No issues.
  8. I believe that is exactly how it would play out. The "intruders" would be dealt with, and both sides wouldn't acknowledge it.
  9. or just press [A] on the keyboard to disengage/engage basic A/P Tim
  10. Well, it was a simple fix for me. My crappy HOTAS couldn't have a big enough deadzone, but the solution was to just jiggle the joystick. So, to set BARO hold, I press the button next to BARO, wait for the colon dots to appear, then lightly jiggle the joystick in the climb and descent axis. During the jiggling, you will by necessity, hit a zero input spot, and the BARO hold will kick in. Same technique goes for ATT and HDG. Try it a couple times, and when the A/P catches, you will see that it's pretty easy to replicate. I wish ED would build in a deadzone in the A/P to allow activation without doing this. Most HOTAS's make some noise, and ED could help the situation a bit as a concession to differing levels of HOTAS quality. Tim
  11. I'm not a fan of "mode" buttons like the orange buttons, but that's just a personal preference. I do agree that the spring center with the X56 is less than optimal, even with three different stiffnesses. The T16000 does the centering better. If they'd make the Warthog with a twist, I'd be in full bore, no questions asked. Tim
  12. The "problem" with the T16000 is the lack of stick buttons and hats, which then relegate you to the keyboard. The X56 has virtually the same number of buttons as the Warthog, but unlike the WH, it has a twist for rudder. This is the one I'm looking at right now, as I don't want' rudder pedals either. Tim
  13. Sounds to me like your flight model has somehow reverted to "game mode." Changing it back to sim mode should fix it. Tim
  14. Hey! My grandpa is on the forum! LOL BTW, I'll get off your lawn too. Tim
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