Shogun0

I agree with this. So I went the best of both worlds. I bought a 27" 1440p IPS panel for the awesome colors. It is also overclockable. I can run it at 96hz no probs, some folks are even getting 110hz out of them. The IPS panel is beautiful, which is what I wanted. But I didn't want to be stuck at 60hz.. so I bought one that is overclockable. The caveat is that it is a Korean monitor. That makes some people uncomfortable because it isn't the Dell, Acer, Asus, etc namebrand. Here is a great thread about it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips

Since I got my i5-6600k/980Ti system up and running... decided to jump on the pre-order wagon. ETA is July. Damn.

I ordered a pair from here. http://www.aviationmegastore.com/pro-flight-combat-rudder-pedals--0021165113503-saitek-0021165113503-flight-simulator-yokesjoystickspedals/product/?action=prodinfo&art=97522 Got here in the US in about a week.

But then you should wait for next year. But then the year after that will be better so wait for that. So you should wait forever because surely we will reach a point where something better won't be coming out. :)

In Windows, my Joystick looks perfectly center: But in the A-10c, the axis input doesn't show center alignment: However, the F-15c it does show centered: But not in the Mig-29 I don't know what the heck is going on. Is it just a graphic bug that isn't affect the actual flight or is my stick really not centered? I've reset all controls to default, deleted the configs in AppData and reinstalled DCS. It is reproducible on these exact planes which makes me wonder... is that what it is supposed to look like in the A-10c?

Everywhere I have read says to run the standalone- not steam. You get patches, modules, etc faster. I have read that in the DCS subreddit and here. It made sense so I just copied all of my CD KEYS from Steam and used them in the standalone. Where are you seeing that it is very recommended to use Steam?

I ended up getting a 980Ti because I was on an old laptop that was on its last leg. I didn't have the luxury of waiting. From what I read in the benchmark thread that is really well done, it isn't that 980Ti performs worse. It is simply that in DCS, there seems to be a bottleneck somewhere that doesn't give you any additional performance past a certain card. I want to say it was the 970. Don't quote me on that though, it is in the benchmark thread and I am on mobile so I can't look it up.

:music_whistling: thanks. I'll use the Search feature next time. Sorry.

So I bought a new PC: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory Storage: A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer Assembled it all last night and it works great. Now I need a new monitor. I use an older 21.5" LCD. I sit pretty far back from my monitor but Im not sure if I am far enough back for a 27" monitor to not look blocky in 1920x1080. Can a 980Ti run DCS at 1440p? I'm kind of nervous of buying a new resolution monitor and finding out it doesn't run as well. Thoughts?

I just bought a new system too! Looks very similar to yours, except I got the 980 Ti and the i5-6600k. Got it all together tonight- can't wait to see what DCS looks like coming from a laptop and medium-low settings.

A replacement is being overnighted! So that is good news. Gonna chalk it up to this one being a dud. :(

When I opened up my TM Warthog last week when it got here, I noticed there was a weird issue going on with both the X and Y axis register being weird. I thought a recalibration would fix it, so I didn't sweat it. Now that I have had time to get situated and actually play (travelled away for work, built a stand for it, etc), recalibration doesn't fix it. I found the TM Calibration Tool where you press space after each movement of the stick... and that doesn't work either. I have updated the firmware(11 for joystick, 23 for throttle) and drivers. No solution. The actual problem: I have the Warthog joystick on the default plate it came mounted on on my desk so everything is flat. If I look in the Windows calibration tool, when I pull slowly straight back on the stick, the cursor in the test window goes down and to the right. If I push straight forward on the stick it goes up and to the left. If I move the stick to the right, it goes right and up. If I move the stick to the left, it goes left and down. It isn't extreme, but it is enough where if I am in a plane and pull up on the stick.. the plane will nose up and roll right. Push down on the stick, it will nose down and roll left, etc. Any thoughts? I sent an email to Thrustmaster but figured I would ask while I wait. Bummer. I was hoping to play this weekend since it is a 3 day weekend. :( I did notice that in the TARGET software in Device Analyzer- neither the joystick or throttle show up even after clicking Enumerate Devices. Weird. Thanks guys.

Fair enough. :)

That would be great. Touch typing is no problem for me- if I could just actually type onto the kneeboard.. that would be great.

It is all 1" Schedule 40 PVC found at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. So, I tore apart my entire joystick base tonight and started just tinkering around and found something I like. I noticed a bit of flexing when I pushed forward on the stick so I figured I would knock that out as well. I needed some more pieces but my hw store closed already. Going to have to finish up tomorrow. Matching up with the green highlighted numbers.. 1- I am going to swap out that T-Connector for a 4-way. That way I can mirror the forward supports backwards as well. 2- There is 8.8cm of space between those connections. I ordered a 7.5mm extension, so when that gets here.. I will drop that space out and just connect the connectors together with no space. Then make up that distance with the 7.5cm extension. That will also help with any minimal flexing that may exist after my fix. 3- I drilled pilot holes into the pipes there. When I can get to the store tomorrow, I will buy the right screws and attach those leg supports to the floorboards as well. 4- Right now, I have the connectors joined together. The stick sits about 1" in front of my chair. I may toss a 1" spacer in there and get it pressed right up against the chair. Having this orientation I can now adjust how far the stick is out or not. I like that. I kind of combined some ideas we both had and really like what I came up with. Especially getting a more stable base and getting the orientation back to a vertical resting position.

Great idea. Gonna pick up some extra t-connectors and angle(45 and 90) connectors when I get home. I have some ideas to test. My new i5-6600k and GTX 980 Ti come in tomorrow :) So I need to get this in a semi-done state before I build my new system and am ready to take to the silky smooth skies. I will update with a picture of whatever I come up with just to see what you think. Thanks again.

Oh that is an interesting thought! I could increase the angle to get a 90 degree and parallel with the ground and extend it over the base of the chair and use the chair for extra stability. Then mount the stick on top like you have drawn. My only concern with doing it like the drawing you mentioned was adding an extension. Would adding a 7.5cm make it too tall if the base was aligned just above the chair? I would think a 15cm would be way too big then lol. I def want to add one to help with the small adjustment factor to fight that spring a bit easier. and btw, your setup is awesome. I how the stick comes up through the bottom of the chair in what looks like a boot.

My hang up isn't so much typing and clicking. I think muscle memory will help get you to those. Mine is writing. I am a note taker. I write down 9 lines. I write down key things to remember, etc. Not being able to write and refer to notes for checklists, etc is a big deal to me unfortunately.

Just to give you an idea of what I am working with.. This is the complete frame. I did lower the two pipes leading up to the joystick. The little pipes on the ground marked with 5 are 5" PVC pipes. I can remove those and replace with longer pipes to roll the platform forward to decrease the decline but push the stick further away.The 45 degree angle and T-Connectors they join to swivel. And you can see the cuts I would have to make to bring me closer to the stick. This is the complete project as is. I added hooks to run the cables through and attached a powered USB hub to the right side to plug everything into, so I only need to use 1 USB port. I also plug my TrackIR 5 into that hub. If I brought myself closer to the stick, I would need to move the pedals forward as well.

Man thank you so much with the help. I plan on ordering an extension and then lowering the mount. I measured it last night and I can drop it about 17cm.. so I may drop the mount 15cm, add a 15cm extension, and then roll the entire mount forward to give a more flat orientation. The downside is that it will move the entire joystick forward away from me. So I will need to cut the frame and side support bars and move it a bit closer. Thanks again for the help. This seems like a never ending project lol. Markeebo- Thank you very much!!!

Thank you, this gives me a good baseline to start with. When you say it is supposed to be twisted to the left.. is the joystick adjustable to do that from the factor? I just lined up the yellow arrows on the base and the stick and locked it down collar. Is that not correct? jcbak- let me know which you prefer. :) dburne- I saw your posts on the IL2 Sahaj thread just now. Any regrets over not getting the 10cm?

Socket7- thank you. It feels comfortable as is, but I am definitely going to shorten it and get an extension based off of the recommendations here. Thanks for putting my mind at ease. :) Jcbak- Thanks! I was looking at the ones crafted by Sahaj. Do you have a preference on size? I was looking at both the 7.5cm and 10cm but it seems like it would be hard to tell the difference without actually looking at them. The extension itself- is it simply allowing you greater leverage over the center spring so you can make small adjustments easier aka in-flight refuleing?

Thats a good idea. I could shorten the pipes that are holding up the mounting board/socket, and toss in a 45 degree connector to straight it up a bit. Worth a try anyway.

##New Update: Post 23 on Page 3## Hey guys- I got my new TM Warthog in from the great Jet sale last week and built a PVC mount. The joystick is mounted on a 4" cap that fits into a coupling that was mounted on an angular stand. I posted this on Reddit and someone thought this was a bad idea. The joystick is angled maybe 15-20 degrees or so, thus the center of gravity is not directly on top of the gimbal. I am not heavy handed on the controls at all, but even so, that ear worm was planted inside of my head and now I am wondering if I am slowly going to be destroying my Warthog joystick. It returns to center just fine.... right now. Any thoughts? Does the Warthog joystick need to be straight up and down or can it be angled back at rest? I know I am being a bit paranoid, but even with the sale I got it on... it isn't cheap lol. Perhaps I should contact TM and see what they say?

Oops, thank you! Math is hard :) Now if I could only find somewhere to buy some Saitek Pro Combat rudder pedals. The price gouging is absurd. One guy is selling his Pro Flight pedals on ebay for $2200 USD.