blitz-hawk

Actually, in a motorcycle you "push to turn" at speeds any higher than a slow crawl... ie. push on the left handlebar to lean the bike over to the left. So that doesn't even work :P In all honesty though, I always thought the OP's way of doing it seemed more natural too. As soon as I got rudder pedals though I snapped myself out of that habit as quickly as possible.

Why isn't there an RWR modelled in black shark?!? Just kidding, go about your business :lol:

Great vid sundog. Glad you're enjoying the skin!

Canadian Forces Ka-50 skin. Note that this mod has only been tested with the Russian version of DCS: Black Shark. There may be compatibility issues with some of the included cfg files when using the English version. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=34172

My guess would be the KA-50-LRM_centre file, near the upper left hand side. I haven't tested though, so can't say for sure.

Do you have the same problem in any other sims? It may be your trim that's causing a problem. Whenever you use the trimmer, keep in mind that it trims the pedals as well. As a result, if you had the pedals deflected a certain amount, trimmed, and left the pedals in that position, your pedal input would be effectively doubled. This would get worse and worse with each subsequent trimming action. Now all we need are force feedback pedals... Edit: Like slardy said, the heading autopilot channel (which should always be left on) also will try to maintain your aircraft's present heading. In diagnosing your problem, I would suggest leaving the flight director on. This will keep the control dampening active, but deactivate the auto stabilization and stop the helicopter from trying to maintain a constant heading.

Doesn't mean you can't laze for others though ;). Now we just need some fast movers that carry some laser guided munitions and co-op will get really interesting.

Actually, the Ka-50 does have a CCIP system of sorts. You have to switch the targeting mode from automatic tracking to gun sight mode (Switch to the left of the Laser standby/off switch, flipped to the down position). This automatically places the impact point for 1100m. By placing the pipper over the target and pressing the target lock button, the laser will range the target and recalculate the impact point. You can do this multiple times while approaching the target, or by holding down the target lock button which will continuously range and calculate the new impact point. Holding down the button will require a cooldown period equal to the length of time that you held the target lock button down, however.

Alright, just in time for the holidays... http://www.lockonfiles.com/modules.php?name=Downloads&d_op=viewdownloaddetails&cid=159&lid=1275&title=Ka-50%20Canadian%20Forces%20Livery#dldetails Only tested with the Russian verison. I haven't tested any of this yet with the english verison, I'm just finally getting around to downloading it today. You may need to play around with some of the cfg files to get it to work. I'll release an English version when I've had a chance to test it out. Thanks for your patience everyone! Enjoy!

Do you have your units in imperial or metric? 171 knots is just a little higher than 300 km/h. The Russians work in metric so they would be giving you a speed in km/h.

To answer your question, yes, there's a game mode that BS can run in. You can simplify the controls to a much more "arcade" or console style gameplay. You can even simplify the avionics, add a radar mode, and fly the entire sim from an external view. I haven't played around with it at all myself yet, but there was a video that Wags put out before the sim was released that showed the mode off. If all you want is a simplified flight model though, you can do that and keep the avionics cranked up to full realism.

Hey gunrun, welcome to the forums. The problem is that the joystick you have has a mechanical spring that keeps it centered. I'm not sure what kind of a motor setup a cyborg evo has or whether it can provide any directional forces or just a shuddering effect. In contrast, sticks like the M$ FFB2 don't have a spring, but instead rely only on the force feedback motors for centering. I doubt you can get the force feedback trimming working on the particular stick that you have. As far as the blade clash, this is due to a few factors. If you're flying at high speed, the advancing portion of the blade disk is going to create more lift than the retreating portion of the blade disk. This will cause the rotor disk to 'tilt' in one direction as the blades creating more lift will flap upwards. Combine this with the fact that you have a counter-rotating coaxial rotor configuration and you can see where this becomes a problem. The lower disk will 'tilt' to the left while the upper disk will 'tilt' to the right. Take a look in the external view when you're flying near 280km/h, it gets really apparent at high speed. In and of itself, blade flapping isn't really a problem unless you fly the helicopter outside of its flight envelope, ie. don't ignore overspeed warnings. The second factor that will ruin your day is how a Ka-50 yaws. A Ka-50 doesn't need a tail rotor because it has two rotor disks creating equal torque in opposite directions. To yaw, the helicopter increases the pitch of one rotor disk while simultaneously decreasing the pitch of the other. This maintains the same net lift while creating a difference in torque between the two rotor disks and subsequently causes the aircraft to yaw. In the Ka-50, right rudder causes the lower disk to increase in pitch and the upper disk to decrease in pitch. Conversely, left rudder will cause the opposite effect. So what does differential pitch have to do with blade clash? Think about the first scenario of the helicopter flying at high speed. The two rotor disks are getting closer and closer together on the right side of the aircraft. Now you apply hard right rudder. This causes the lower blade disk to increase in pitch and the upper disk to decrease in pitch. This causes the lower disk to flap even more, while the upper flaps even less. You've already found out what happens next ;). Long story short, don't ignore overspeed warnings and be cautious of how you use that right rudder pedal at higher speeds. Also try to avoid high g maneuvers and erratic cyclic inputs and you should be fine. Hope this helps a bit!

Hey guys, thanks for the feedback. I'm done exams, etc, so I should be able to get this out to you soon. My main problem right now is that I'm installing this by the temptextures folder and replacing another skin. I'm going to have to try and figure out how to add it in addition to the other skins. I'll take a closer look at modman.

Maybe I'm the only person who's run across this, but I find if I don't shut off the engine governers prior to cutting the fuel flow I end up with a gearbox warning light. Somehow it doesn't seem like I should be shutting off the governers before the engines are off though.

I will definitely release it. I'm a bit busy with some end of term university projects right now so it may not be for a week or so though. I still want to tweak some things anyhow and I still have to try and figure out how to add the skin without replacing anything else (reverse engineering some other skin releases to see how they did it). Thanks for the replies!