MoToad

Interesting reading. I came looking for answers to my missed tank after repeatedly missing it by that 30 ft. Frustrating for me as I have been away from DCS for several years and am trying to 'relearn' everything all over again. To the point now where I am just trying to complete the first 'easy' quick mission with the stock loadout. Use one GBU 12 for the bridge and the other on the first tank. Spot on. Then the first GBU38 always seems to miss. And even at 30-50 ft the tank never lights up. Seems to me in the good ol days I never had this problem. Guess maybe they have made it more realistic. Perhaps I should save the 38s for the moving column.

Give them to a homeless person.

No, I was just being A10 specific but overnight I realized frst stage is mapped to a keyboard button and I need to free up a button on my throttle to use for that purpose. Not use a mod button with trigger. My TWCS has button 3 as my modifier button which I would like to keep and button 2 for gear. Moving gear to a stick button and using for first stage.

Ya thats what I mean. OK tried that. Holding the mod and trigger steadies the aircraft but I have to let them go and re pull t5he trigger causing the aircraft to kick up slightly. I think with real two stage you depress the trigger slightly for 1st stage and then follow thru for gun? And stage 1 is still happening?

That's they way it's set up. Mod +trigger. SO, to lock the aircraft on the glide path I am holding down the mod and trigger. Then I let go mod and begin firing? Do I still get the stage 1 effect?

Don't have a two stage trigger. TM16000M. Have mapped a mod button and trigger for first stage. Am not even sure if it works yet. I have found with using mod buttons I need to be sure to hit the modifier button first before whatever main button or switch. A little tricky. Two questions: Is there a better way for a single stage trigger? And, do I need to hold the buttons for the trigger or is it set then proceed with the second stage? Ie; firing.

Build my own. Win 10. My laptop came with 8 (old). But I'm pretty sure I remember a clean up/ storage suggestion from Win 10 a while back saying make more room by deleting old windows. Anyhoo, long gone. You may also consider going to a site like Kinguin and getting a completely legit (been working for me for the last couple of years) Windows 10 key for 20 or 30 bucks and installing clean of everything else.

You can dump the Windows old to make some room.

By all over the drive I mean that if you access 'D' you will find all the files and folders right there in front of you. I guess that's fine if you don't mind mixing them up with whatever else you might have loose on that drive. Ie; photos, docs, folders, etc. Both my drives are SSDs and I find no difference in gameplay. Yes, old style HDs are slower.

It runs fine on D drive. Just remember to make/name a folder DCSWorld so it doesnt install all over the drive.

If I use the Target software do I have to start it up or run it all the time when playing DCS or whatever? Or does it automatically start with the game?

Finding trim on my C Hat stick too sensitive. Any way to adjust?

Had a look at Target. Wasn't something I really wanted to diddle with. I'm a KISS guy.

After several months I am still searching for the right layout. I have a lot of inefficient settings and would certainly like to do better for memories' sake. The TM 16000M throttle has two 8 ways and am using the front side index finger one for slewing the Mav or targeting which seems right. The center button for Master switch which I can probably do better at. The other 8 way at the top side thumb position I have not found a proper use for. Perhaps CMS, DMS, and TMS should all be mapped in one 4 way with a mod button for two of them? I am still using the stick 8 way for head slew but an EDTracker is in the mail and will soon free that up. The pinky wheel and paddles on the throttle still remain unused as I havent figured out how to change them from axis to toggles or buttons. Am used to the twist grip stick so the paddles could be freed up from that. Gotta say the old failing memory has me pausing the game a bunch to consult my messy layouts so I need to resolve this before once again joining the on line boys without a pause button. So, if anyone has further refined I would love to hear from you. And wouldn't it be great to map the speed brake to that paddle or the rotary?

You said you hadn't set any dead zones or curves. That will do a lot to smooth things out.

OK. I've just spent the last two days researching this. I have a Hamswan set of VR goggles from Amazon on the way because I had discovered that they can be used with my Mavic drone to extend my flying experience but more so to be able to see the screen that is impossible to see in bright sunlight. Also getting back into DCS after a couple of years I see everybody raving about VR. But, as I understand it now, the $30 goggles will only allow head tracking with the add on gear but the $500 goggles will have head tracking built in? Last year I got around to building the cheap track setup converting a Playstation camera but never really did set it up properly. So, I still have that and may attempt to fiddle with it. Orrrr.....blow the big bucks for another toy. I might also hold off to look for price drops in the future.

OK. Looks like I found what I am looking for here. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=164515

Anyone made cheep vr goggles work? Suggestions?

Twistking I have sent you a PM but if you dont see it I am pasting it here to get more response. Hey TK, Assuming you occasionally see these messages, I have been using the mini stick on the throttle as a slew like you but I am trying to refine it enough to easily pick up mav targets. You said a lot of dead zone and I went way out to 80% but found that was not the answer. Backed off to 50% and is better. But I am thinking slowing down the actual traverse speed may go better with the curve adjustment. Got that at about 30% and it's better. Question is, what are the other two adjustments for and would knocking them back from 100% help? As it's the only xy axis available on the throttle I need to reel it in. Hope u peeps can help.

Thanks Biggy. That was it. It was set on floating but was more like shaking. Dumb option IMHO. Should rename it Annoying.

Having recently returned to DCS after a long absence, I've found on small annoyance I need to deal with. First, I am operating a brand new system; I7, Asroc Z270, 16 gigs DDR4 ram, 1050Ti card, Win 10. I haven't jacked up board or GPU. All set at default. Game is running on high settings and my stuff should allow that flawlessly. All updated for all shyte done and done. :joystick::joystick: In the cockpit (A10C)all is smooth but external view of aircraft has slight jitteryness to it. Any input on how to deal with it would be appreciated.

Bet my left nut it's the GPU. Your new one is gonna fix everything and increase your sex life!

Good to know it's not just me.

Thx Sokol. I have a new question. I find in DCS, trying to program I often have to push whatever button several times before it highlights and I can save it. Some never highlight (pop up). In that case I will look on the list and input it that way. This was happening before and I thought USB 3 was the problem. I switched to USB 2 and am not sure if that fixed it. Also I checked and tested the T.16000 settings in Windows and everything works as it should. My problem with that now is I have just built a new system. Intel 7, Asrock Z270 and all the other goodies. Am trying 2.0 again.

OK. Now the damn orange light in the base of the stick is on all the time. Do I really have to cut the wire to end it?