Deltaalphalima1

Sure - STL file is attached. If I remember correctly the holes are modelled slightly undersize so they can be drilled / tapped to the correct size, otherwise the 3D printing process usually doesn’t give a reliable enough tolerance. The bottom hole should be drilled to 2.3mm, and the side hole tapped to metric M3 thread. I still have all the CAD so let me know if you need anything 462 Concave Hat v6.stl

It should work on any throttle, but there probably isn’t much advantage doing it if you haven’t also upgraded the slew. It might make it overly sensitive with the stock slew still installed - but you can always downgrade so feel free to give it a go!

Hello everyone! Since we started making our slew upgrade, one thing that has come up several times is the limited axis update rate for the slew axis. It doesn’t update as quickly as the other throttle axes, which has meant that even after upgrading the physical slew the axis still doesn’t work as well as it could. This was a limitation inside the throttle firmware, so couldn’t be changed by the slew upgrade directly. Other the last few months I have been working on reverse engineering the Warthog throttle firmware, so I could modify it to increase the slew axis speed. I am pleased to announce our first custom Warthog throttle firmware version, which removes this limitation and runs the slew axis at full speed! Delta_Sim_Fast_Slew_v100.tmf is released free of charge, and is compatible with all our slew upgrades, including the force sensor. Please find the firmware file and install instructions attached for download. You will need the Thrustmaster firmware update tool installed to do the update. This comes with the Thrustmaster Warthog driver package, so you probably have it installed already, or it can be downloaded from the Thrustmaster website. This has been a lot of work, so I hope it will be useful to someone Delta_Sim_Fast_Slew_v100.zip

I would say start with no curves set, and test it out in game with small control movements. If you feel like you don’t have enough fine control, increase the curve maybe 5 points at time, and retest until it feels better. Once the curve is set, test at maximum deflection and see how the top speed feels. If you want it slower, adjust down the saturation in the same way - but I would usually stick to 100% saturation for the best movement speed. You shouldn’t need any deadzone set, I would only recommend that if you experience any drift, which you shouldn’t with a new and properly calibrated sensor. I use around 10 - 20 on curve and 100% saturation but it really depends on your personal preference.

I haven’t tried a longer one so I’m not sure how that would be, but I do have a design for a shorter version. STL is attached for short version, and the standard version. The issue with 3D printing is getting the tolerance right so it fits onto the sensor shaft properly - if you have a 3d printer it’s easier, but with shapeways or a similar service it can be hit and miss with their tolerances. ALPSHat V5.stl ALPSHat small v5.stl

With two Arduino Uno boards, both programs should compile as is. I just tested and everything works as it should for me. Can you send me a PM or email with a picture of your setup?

I don’t know why the Sparkfun code is so complicated – I guess they have just made is as versatile as possible so it can be used in many situations – my code just simulates the one config Thrustmaster have used so it doesn’t need the extra complexity. All the basic calibration and scaling is done in the two first lines in void loop, you might want to add something more complex, but it isn’t needed to get it working. The pushbutton isn’t handled over i2c, it’s just connected to a pin, so the slave Arduino doesn’t need to do anythign with it. Attached is the code I use to simulate the throttle and test the units I sell as the master. It’s a bit messy but if load that onto one Arduino, and the Instructables code onto another, they will talk over I2C just like the sensor and throttle – and the master will report the sensor values over serial. tester.ino

I’m glad to hear people are still finding it useful! It’s been a while so I might not remember exactly - but the code on the Instructables should be complete. That is the Arduino version of the code that runs on all the slew sensors I make. What do you think is missing?

That is usually when something has gone wrong during the calibration, please try running the calibration tool again as below: 1: Download the latest version for the calibration tool from my website (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0011/5602/2282/files/Thumbstick_Sensor_Calibration_Tool.zip?11593063595637542780) Make sure you have extracted the zip file after downloading. The "A10_calibration.txt" file must be in the same folder "Throttle Warthog Calibration (V1.07).exe" is run from. 2: Run the calibration tool and carefully follow the on-screen instructions. It should run through all the way through with no error messages. Be careful to move the both the throttles to the OFF, IDLE and MAX positions when asked. OFF is the fully back position over the detent lifts, IDLE is the next stop up or the minimum flight setting, and MAX is fully forward and over any afterburner lift. If you have any custom afterburner detents installed, you may need to temporarily remove them for the calibration. Hopefully that will get you working again.

If it's not working in windows device settings then it will be something hardware related, but as you say it's not really possible to tell if it’s the slew or something else in the throttle without a new slew to compare to. Thank you for your order, let me know how you get on with the new sensor!

It is a simple question, but a surprisingly complicated answer! For reference: The connectors are 5 pin 1.25mm pitch. The original brand name is Molex PicoBlade, although they are now available from many Chinese sellers under various names including 'MX1.25' and confusingly 'micro jst 1.25mm', even though they are not actual JST connectors. I'm am always happy to send a replacement cable if someone needs one, we have lots

Oh no! I'm sorry to hear that! If neither the old or new slew are working then it could be the PCB, or the 7 pin cable that connects to the base of the throttle. Can you check the 7 pin cable for any damage along the length? If you can send me an email I can give some more help

Thank you very much! I hope you will enjoy it too Next shipment should be Wednesday 5th. Thanks for everyone’s support the past year, we sold over 1,800 units total which is crazy... We have some more projects in the works that I’m excited to announce soon, so here's to another great year 2022!

Thanks for your order! All orders from the 28th have shipped, you should have received one confirmation email when you placed the order and another when it shipped. Please double check your junk folder, and send me an email or PM if you would like me to resend the emails. Hopefully it will be with you soon!

Currently in stock, shipping within 2 working days!

Clearing the Windows calibration will not clear any keys in DCS, it's just to make sure the old Windows built in software does not interfere with any joystick axes. Nothing to worry about

Recalibration can be done with the Thrustmaster calbration tool from my website Make sure you have cleared any Windows calibration first - details on page 11 on the install instructions I hope that helps

My pleasure! I'm glad we were able to get you back up and running

That's great to hear! The round and square give the same maximum X and Y movement, but the round limits movement on the diagonals. I recommend the square to start with if you’re unsure. The round is technically more realistic to the original the aircraft and some people find it nicer to not get stuck in the corners - but I find the square nicer for normal use personally

#6394 was shipped on June 2nd - there is no tracking information for the standard shipping option unfortunately. Shipping time is usually 1-3 weeks, so hopefully it will be with you in the next week or so.

This week's batch are all built up and ready to go - just getting them ready to ship. Should be shipping Wednesday or Thursday

Glad to hear you like it! I would say getting the old sensor out if often the trickiest part of the install. It’s easy once you’ve done it a few times, but very hard to explain the first time. Also it helps if you have skinny fingers

US shipping is usually less than 3 weeks, but there have been some delays getting though customs recently (up to 4-5 weeks) so you might have got unlucky. If it still hasn’t got to you in a couple of weeks time please send me a message/email and we will get it sorted.

Thank you! #6106 should be shipping mid/late April, hopefully around the 19th or so.

Since Brexit orders to the EU now do NOT include VAT on the sale. You might need to pay additional fees when you receive the item - for Slovenia I believe it is 22% sales tax + any extra fees Some EU orders seem to get charged, but most don't. You might get lucky, but that is out of our control unfortunately. I hope that helps.