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Everything posted by Sideslip

  1. That's really exiting news! Alas other than only owning one base, I really don't have the time to test sticks in any meaningful way, so I won't be applying. But there will be some very lucky people getting their hands on what I assume will be top notch sticks. The idea of being able to swap buttons/hats/thumb-sticks to customize your grip the way you want it sounds fantastic to me. I can't see myself replacing my right MCG, but if Star Citizen is ever finished I could easily see myself picking up another Gladiator (buttons on the base are underrated) with a left hand stick. From the pictures they look like very capable sticks explicitly designed to work well in any PC gaming or simulation scenario. Replica sticks are nice and all, but they are terrible when used outside of their intended role. Hopefully the ergonomics are just as good as the MCG which is WAY better than both the X-55 and CH Combat Stick that I used in the past. I'm sure many people will be pleased to have an integrated twist function, I just hope there is a locking pin (looks like maybe there is a thread for a screw). Myself I will always use rudder pedals, and with HOSAS you have no need for 4 or 5 lateral axes (left x and rx + right x and rx + rudder) when there are only 3 (roll, yaw and lateral thrust). Looking forward to reviews!
  2. Are you actually seeing the gauges on the videos or just mathing it? Don't forget the angle of incidence. Either way I'll stick to 10 degrees. Also, don't quote me on it but at max gross I think the 25A can only get as low as about 5 degrees AoA at cruise speed without shaking from the turbulence of some rocket pods. It just seems a tiny bit low to me.
  3. Well I think that proves it, the heat from braking (not necessarily the brakes themselves) is definitely modeled, so don't be applying breaks when you land at 400kph in the su25. :pilotfly:
  4. I would rate the VKB (and I assume Virpil) sticks about a 9 or 10, CH as a 5 when brand new, and the Logitech about a 3 from personal experience. From what I've read I think the T-flight might be about a 5. Regarding the 25, when I started flying the 27 the first thing I noticed was "wow this thing is sensitive". In the 25 everything is a little sluggish and you have to stay ahead of the aircraft, I assume much more so than the F15. Regarding landing and flap speeds, most of these aircraft have an AoA gauge. For most aircraft, 10 degrees is as high as you want to be for landing (or any level flight really). I don't know where Ironhand got 12 from, but I just use 10 as it's easy. Also, I took a look at the SU-27 with 10 degrees nose up and it's scary close to scraping the exhaust nozzels on the runway. So basically, any time you have more than 10 degrees AoA either speed up or lower more flaps.
  5. Are you sure you are playing the right tracks? His track worked fine for me and I have never once rolled an su25 down a runway at 445kph. I only made 270kph about 2/3 down the runway.
  6. Just to make sure the entire runways was used, I tested it myself. I did my best to break for the whole length of the runway. Starting weight was 19691kg (191kg over max gross). I did the takeoff and circuit just to get a feel for the aircraft, just fast forward to the landing. Can'tBreakAnyMoreThanThat.trk Landed as close to the threshold as I could, landed very firm, held the brakes until pretty much the end of the pavement, tried to keep the speed between 290kph and 320kph and had no blown tires. Whether the tires were hotter from the braking or not, you cannot blow tires on the SU-25 in this sim by use of the brakes on landing. You can do it a whole lot of other ways, but not by braking.
  7. :crazy: Wow that was scary! No offense, but if I ever meet you in person and you are offering flights, I'm not letting any family members get on board. I think I know how your tires blew previously :P What equipment are you using? That reminds me of when I used to have a Logitech 3D extreme pro, it was soooooo difficult to fly with that thing. Some friendly advice. When you are coming in to land, set yourself up sooner, meaning configure the aircraft. You did not need to be on the edge of a stall like that. At that weight, you should have had the approach flaps (combat flaps) out under 450kph. And you don't need to wait until you put the gear down to set landing flaps either. I am about to leave for a few days on a motorcycle trip, but maybe I can squeeze in one test before I go...
  8. In plastic? No way. The forces that thing has to take are very large (for plastic). You'd end up with a warped cam in no time, and it would flex even if it wasn't warped. If you have your own CNC machine to cut aluminum, maybe. All you need is a scanner and then import the image into a CAD program and you can manipulate the curve there. But to get something symmetrical and actually good, you've got to be better at math than I am.
  9. Ok, I was probably missing something or doing something wrong. I'll chalk it up to having only a dozen hours or so in the 27, most of which being A2A, compared to what I'm used to in the 25s. I really wish I could play more in the sim, but I'm procrastinating too much as it is in real life.
  10. My bad sorry. The cam is in my gimbal and not going to pull it out to read the number :doh:
  11. In the training mission I was missing before and after the target a lot. Then playing multiplayer in a mission that I "believe" had 0 wind set, I was way off to the sides. But then again, I might just suck. And if CCIP can't factor in the winds (not surprising), why would CCRP? It wasn't so much that I was missing with CCIP, but that I was way more accurate with CCRP.
  12. It depends how you fly. If you are hands off and trimming only, then the 30 cam will keep the stick in the center more aggressively keeping the plane flying as you trimmed it. If you keep your hand on the stick and only use trim to help, then the 20 cam will be much smoother at making fine adjustments that pass through the center. Do you want a computer joystick or an approximation of a real aircraft stick? Nothing wrong with either, it's however you want it to feel.
  13. The following is a gross exaggeration... "These guys suck, they delay and delay and never ship." "I preordered and a whole week later still no shipping notice" "They said shipping next week and it's next week, why don't I have my throttle? I'm so canceling my order. Never buy anything from these jerks" ***Throttle arrives a week later*** "This thing is awesome, you should totally get one. Virpil are super great, buy everything Virpil" Seems to be the normal phases for any new equipment. :bounce::furious: :joystick: :thumbsup:
  14. Sure it makes it "easier" to not have to worry about trimming, but it would be way more effective to be able to ripple. Dropping 2 FAB500s on the exact same spot is really useless. I'd much rather have them landing 50m apart. On a side note, the CCIP mode sucks in the 27, granted it doesn't use a laser range finder like the 25 AFAIK. I often have bombs landing way left or right (ball is centered and roll is level), where as with CCRP they are pretty much bang on. Dropping in pairs only exacerbates the problem as you can only make half the number of runs, and you can't increase the chances of a hit by rippling.
  15. I misunderstood. I thought you were holding speed with the brakes applied. Would be interesting to see how braking would affect the lower numbers.
  16. No worries. Text is just a very bad format for expressing intent or emotion. Imagine all the flame wars across the internet that started from miscommunication through text.
  17. You should have been a scientist if you aren't already Ironhand. That's very interesting. It definitely seems like heat must be playing a role there. Also interesting how the right wheel blew before left (by a huge margin) 2 out of 3 times, crosswind maybe? That makes a pretty good case to make sure to let the plane slow down aerodynamically a little bit before applying brakes. I'll still hammer on them for the 25 though, I think the lower weight and braking force will make it much less of an issue. For the higher take-off failure speed, it might be that there is still a lot of residual heat in the tires from the previous takeoff that makes the landings fail sooner (I assume getting to 390kph takes a little more than 8 seconds). Air being a poor conductor of heat, I have no idea how long they would take to cool down.
  18. AFAIK, and I'm not an expert, the air-to-ground system on the SU-27 in the sim is basically locked. On the weapons panel I believe there is a dial to select single, pair, or a ripple timer (I assume for all of one type in one go). There are no controls that I have found in the settings that allows any change to the weapon release setting (except salvo which I think does nothing... but I could be wrong). The way it seems to work by default is it will release bombs in pairs (haven't tested the S-24). You can sort of get around this with stations 5 and 6 by equipping different weapons in those two slots (ie a FAB500 and 6XFAB100), and since they are centered they do not affect the balance when releasing one at a time. It's a little frustrating to be staring at a dial you just want to reach out and turn, but you can't. Oh well.
  19. Brakes are linear unless you manually set up a curve as far as I know. I can't help much more without being there in front of your computer.
  20. Either heat build-up, or a simple calculation of a predetermined speed taking OAT into account. It'd be cool if it's really heat, but I'm still not sure. If you are accelerating it's hard to tell which it is.
  21. I had CH "pro" *cough* pedals for years. Don't expect very smooth application of the toe brakes even when you get them working right. In my experience, they registered from roughly 10% to 50% of travel, so the remaining 50% of travel isn't doing anything, you'll already be at 100% brakes. It makes for very touchy brakes. Good luck regardless.
  22. Yes but was that accelerating or at a constant speed? Ie, did they blow because they hit a predetermined speed of failure in the sim or because heat from the braking action caused them to fail? If you maintain a constant speed and they fail after a time, you can figure they failed from a build of up heat (or wear). If they just fail at a set speed, it might have nothing to do with the brakes being applied and could just be weight/maxgross X OAT/stdTemp X tirespeedrating = speed at which tires fail. If you did the same but stopped accelerating at 350 and they still failed, just a little later, that would be pretty good evidence that heat caused it. Of course that's tires and not brakes. I still doubt the brakes are modeled.
  23. It sounds like your toe brakes aren't calibrate or there is something else wrong with your pedals or the way they are setup (outside of DCS). I know the brakes work perfectly for me. Your toe-brakes should never be in the center. They are each a one-way axis. For example, on the DCS controls axis page, my toe brakes are both fully right. When I apply them they move progressively to the left. If I push them half-way, that would put the axis in the middle. I have the axes inverted due to the direction they move. It almost sounds like you linked your left and right toes into 1 shared axis.
  24. FYI you have PMs disabled. I don't know much about the monitor, but it looks like a good one. At 43" you will have a massive amount of screen in front of you. If you are sitting around 1m from it you will be able to see most of the cockpit while having a FOV not too far off from reality similar to my ultra-wide, which means things on the screen will appear close to their actual size. Good for spotting targets, and very immersive. It is an IPS which is good, but you may experience IPS glow which are bright spots on a black or dark background. Not a big deal during daytime flight. My screen is also an IPS with very bad IPS glow, but it's not a deal breaker. 60hz is barely acceptable to me after using >100hz screens for about 6 years now, but the reality is getting more than 60fps at 4k is pretty difficult anyway, and there are very few 4k monitors that do better than 60hz. Gsync or Freesync (depending on what's compatible) are actually even more important at 4k, since frame-rates can easily drop bellow 60hz. It's expensive but I find it absolutely worth it. But it all depends on what you're used to. If you time-traveled from 1950 and you've never used air-conditioning, you wouldn't think a car without it in Phoenix Arizona was a bad idea. Hard to say without seeing the screen in person, but I think if you have the hardware to run it, you'll be very happy with that monitor.
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