Yomo

Don't know about the stop engine command, but the canopy locking lever (right side just ahead of the canopy hoop) needs to be to the rear (click on it as no key bind for it yet) before the canopy will open.

Criteria aren't specified in the pocket checklist, but it's page 2-51 in NFM-000 (which is page 129 in the PDF version have).

Clicking to close the canopy was introduced in the last update (at least it seems to be working since that one). Turn to your right, or left, and click on the canopy handle to close it. You'll need to click on the canopy release lever to unlock it before you can click the right or left canopy handle to open it.

Doh! "[...]verify that nozzles are rotated to at least 10 degrees." Thanks CptSmiley

Following the NATOPS checklist (NFM-500) I'm not able to get the Flaps BIT to function. Specified point in the checklist (Before Taxiing - step 19), flaps on/auto, flaps caution and warning lights are on, press the BIT button and... nothing. I somehow got it to work a couple of times immediately after the patch to see how it looked (it looked cool), but I haven't been able to repeat whatever the steps were that I took to get it working since. If it's user error, I can't figure out what I'm not doing right.

The canopy locking lever needs to be pulled back (click on it) before the canopy can be opened.

-BUMP- Interested to know the answer to this one too.

Great news. Thanks CptSmiley!

The rate at which the aircraft trim works is significantly affected by frame rate. Low frame rates = very slow trim rates. I notice it most when moving from VR to flat screen. It's still obvious when in flat screen and running missions with large numbers of assets, which seems to rule out VR being the culprit. Rob

The rear-projection version of this material might work. Use acrylic windows for instrument/displays, then apply this stuff to each window. http://www.goocentral.net/ YouTube example; Down side: it isn't cheap! RB

I had a similar problem with a second-hand T231H. Connecting it to a powered USB hub or to the USB3 ports on my motherboard seemed to cure it. The only repeat occurrence I've had since was after accidentally connecting it to a USB2 port on the MB after moving the PC. No idea why it made a difference, or if it was purely coincidental, or even if the controller in the 230 is the same as the 231, but it could be worth a try if either option is available to you. RB

I used Gardena hose repairers, although I've used them on the Warthog as a spacer so that I can get the 10-15 degree offset on the stick. Also used a couple of them to adapt my Cougar stick to an MS FFB for use with Blackshark. try http://www.gardena.com

Serial: 00831 Location: Essex, UK

I used an old dead Xbox 360 wired headset (the official MS one-sided one). Remove the earpiece/mic where it connects to the rest of the headband, fasten the proclip to the remaining part of the white sliding section on the band, and you're good to go. Adjustable and comfy(ish). RB

Muppet.

Apparently, Saitek will be supplying an SDK with the panel... http://tv.hexus.net/show/2009/01/CES_2009_Saitek_present_the_Pro_Flight_Instrument_Panel/ RB