skygunner58203

So, I have finally gotten my G2 Headset. I want to set up OpenXR, but I'm wondering if I'm going to see a massive improvement on my older hardware. Currently I'm running a 1600X, 32GB RAM and a 1080ti. WMR4SVR worked fairly well on my older G1 and WMR headsets. I'm just curious how much improvement I'm likely to see.

I'm unsure how to ask about this issue. I have the most recent Game Ready drivers, as well as the most recent drivers for my system in general. Current specs are as follows: 1600X Asus rog strix b450-f 32 GB ram @ 3200 MHz Nvidia 1080ti HP Reverb G1 v2 (pretty sure, but its used) Windows 20H2, all updates up to date. My headset's display keeps turning off. the audio still works, as does tracking, but its completely black for several seconds, then back for a minute or two, then black again. Some of the blackouts also cause a blackout of my primary monitor as well. Any ideas?

So, My X-55 crapped out on me. I am now on the hunt for a new/used throttle. Don't care what kind. Could be TM, Logi, or Virpil. Just don't want to pay scalper prices. PM me with offers.

@Tumbler- Check Spec. Functions. if its not there, I think you can manually input the values in the DZ boxes. I could be wrong though

Huh. So I'll need to remove my sensors from the pedals and turn them during calibration, save the settings, then install the sensors. As for why I grabbed them... they were in the BOM listed on the thingiverse and prusa pages. ...... This is gonna suck.

I'm not using a DIY sensor though. Looks just like a pot but the hall sensor is inside it. I'm using these from digikey https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=6127V1A360L.5FS Could very well be a bad sensor, but I don't want to give up on it yet

Alrighty then. I finished building my new pedals, The valkyrie rudder pedals from thingiverse. Unfortunately, I'm now stuck. I have the board set up with MMJOY2, using the Leonardo. I set the x axis to F7, or A0 on the board. I get a fluctuating number, but moving the sensor doesn't have any effect. Any ideas other than buying a bodnar board and being done with it? EDIT: Tested a toe brake. That one registers properly.... mostly. It sits high, like ouput says 971. When I push the brake, it increase to 1000 then resets to 0 and starts count up again from there. Releasing the pedal goes back to zero/1000 and down the 971. The main sensor doesn't do this. It may be a bad sensor..... Or I'm just horrible at building crap lol EDIT 2: Looking at the sensor in windows joystick properties shows it starts in one corner, then jumps to the other corner. There isn't any in between. Using this sensor: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=6127V1A360L.5FS Still looking for ideas.

Did you ever release the files for the V1 and/or the Upper instrument panel?

Any chance we can print the adapter ourselves? I have a mk3s, and one of the offset connectors is just what I need to center mount my hog stick. I don't mind purchasing a printed model, just like to print things myself.

It was more to click things as a workaround until I had a workable VR pit. My issue mostly is that my portable desk doesn't fit between my hotas when its mounted to the chair, so the mouse slides all over the place.

Do the WMR controllers work in DCS world? I'm trying to figure out an option to get by in full fidelity planes until I can build a basic pit

Hey is this working on the newest 2.5.6 version (open-beta)? Or is this stable only?

While I'm not the best Mirage pilot, I have the basics down. What I did was load up the mirage in cold start and just fly. I started with no weapons and then added weapons to get used to the different mechanics. While some people may roast me on this, I really like the Grim Reapers tutorials for the M2000C on youtube. I used their setup guide to set my controls for the essentials, and then I add controls as I need them.

So how did you guys get the cardboard for these? I'm pretty sure they used to sell kits, but now that they don't any more, I'd like to figure out where to get the right size cardboard.

Possibly a dumb question. Do I need to use the inserts, or can I just use nuts and bolts?

I'm in the US.

Oh god. I just found this. And am now sooooo glad I work for an electronic parts distributor. And since I have a printer, I should be able to get this printed and working in a weekend. THANKS FOR THIS! As soon as I have extra funds, a donation is coming your way!

Awesome, I'll try this when I get home

Hey all Got a bit of a weird issue. I'm trying to run DCS in VR. By all accounts, it works just fine. Except for one issue. If I lean forward to get a better view of the instruments, it zooms me out, if I lean away, it goes in. Its really weird. If there any way to adjust the settings for this? It works fine in SteamVR and windows mixed reality. Do I just need to use the Zoom axis on my hotas and look in the direction I want w/o leaning forward? Current setup Ryzen 1600X 1080 ti 16GB Ram Headset: HP MWR Headset model VR1000-100 Flight controls: Saitek X55

Well. I decided as a temporary thing to use TinkerCAD and a digital caliper to model a pair of mounts for the Cougar MFDs. My first run wasn't accurate as I had forgotten to zero my caliper before measuring. The second, however, was a nice and snug fit onto my monitor. The MFDs hang by the little hooks used to grab the legs. A bit of tack putty, and its nice, stable, and mounted to my screen. Unfortunately, the RWR isn't exportable by normal means for the F-15C. HOWEVER! Cockpit++ actually connected to DCS with minimal fuss and put the RWR on an android tablet. Now if only UltraMFCD still worked....

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll see what I can dig up in my town. I have a makerspace, maybe they can help actually build and set this up

Hey all, Have a bit of an issue. I have had a set of Cougar MFDs sitting around collecting dust. I FINALLY managed to get hold of a small-ish Element TV to use as a second monitor. I will eventually by getting a pair of smaller 8 inch displays, but for now this is what I got. What's the best way to mount these to the screen as well as be able to remove them easily? I do have a 3d printer, but my ability to design parts is mostly limited to TinkerCAD and Thingiverse without a starting file. So if anyone has an stl or obj file I can alter to fit, that would work too.