A-10C Engine Switches - What type?

[Reoze]

I'm having some issues finding what type of switch I would use for the A-10 engine switches. I imagine they're a type of momentary SPDT toggle but I can't seem to actually find one that has a locked down position. Anyone have any tips on what I should be searching for? I tried to see if anyone had instructions on building one but people seem to leave these switches out in their tutorials and a search on the forums didn't turn up much regarding this specific switch.

[Socket7]

I believe you are looking for SPDT switches of the ON-OFF-(ON) variety. The brackets mean that the switch has to be held in that position instead of latching there.

 

I've been puzzling all this out myself recently. I hate only being able to look at them in online catalogs.

 

When you find some switches of the size you like, I'd love to know some part numbers of switches people are happy with. The only part numbers i've found are to very expensive authentic milspec switches, as opposed to cheap everyday switches that are sized correctly.

 

A database of common part numbers for popular switches would be really handy for newcomers to pit building.

Edited December 30, 2014 by Socket7

[Extranajero]

So the action is centre off, down on ( latching ), up on ( momentary ) ?

[Socket7]

Thats my understanding. Thats how the switches on the TM warthog work too. Up and down are button presses, while centered is pushing nothing.

 

The same switch should work for the inverter standby / test switch on the electrical panel.

[Reoze]

Thanks Socket7 that really helped my search. Unfortunately it seems like most of the stuff you need for these type of projects you have to order blindly online or through a catalog. Then play guess and check (and dremel) after they arrive.

 

After a quick search something like this seems like it'd work fine, but if you don't think so I'd love to hear why before I wait to have it shipped.

 

(wrong link)

Edited December 31, 2014 by Reoze

[Extranajero]

It might well be possible to take an on\off\on switch apart and modify it then.

I have done this before to convert latching to momentary.

I'll see if I have a suitable switch in my Big Pile Of Junk and try it out.

[agrasyuk]

SPDT ON-OFF-(ON) is the correct notation for the 2 ENGINE OPER switches.

DPDT will also do (extra pole is not hurting anything)

 

EDIT:

here is one for not to much money.but its not locking or military grade

http://www.bgmicro.com/dpdtcenteroffmomentaryonesidepanelmount.aspx

 

BTW, CMSP panel uses 4 of these in case you will go for making that panel in non-replica form.

Edited December 30, 2014 by agrasyuk

[Boltz]

Thanks Socket7 that really helped my search. Unfortunately it seems like most of the stuff you need for these type of projects you have to order blindly online or through a catalog. Then play guess and check (and dremel) after they arrive.

 

After a quick search something like this seems like it'd work fine, but if you don't think so I'd love to hear why before I wait to have it shipped.

 

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10545

 

That is an (On)-Off-(On) switch so both up and down positions are momentary. It will not work for what you are intending.

 

The Engine Operate switches are MS24659-31N and are On-Off-(On). They are also lever locking meaning they must be pulled upwards to change from any position except IGN to NORM which is the momentary action.

 

http://buyaircraftparts.com/part-number/MS24659-31N - There are a bunch of dimensions of the various parts of the switch on this page here.

 

Boltz

[Socket7]

That one looks momentary in both ways.

 

http://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/_/N-5g2j?P=1z0z2xmZ1z0z27b

 

I think anything here will work. If you narrow down to 30V DC stuff only, a milspec honeywell switch shows up. So they seem like good candidates.

 

Then there is a question of bushing size, which determines the size of the mounting hole and the length of the switch itself.

 

You also have to decide if you want solder or screw terminals on the bottom.

 

Mouser has pretty good data sheets regarding dimensions but i've always had a devil of a time seeing engineering drawings in my head. I like to hold physical stuff in my hand.

Edited December 30, 2014 by Socket7

[Reoze]

I just realized I put the wrong link in there, let me see if I can dig up the one I was looking at, like you said it shouldn't matter too much. Seems like the only real concern is bushing size. Screw vs Solder doesn't sound like it matters much.

 

Out of curiosity why are you trying to grab a 30v switch? I imagine there's quite a few ways to wire a panel but I didn't think there was a reason to pump more than 12v through the circuit.

 

Thanks for all the information guys, I never knew that about the latching switches. It'd be a nice touch but not entirely necessary I don't think. Good to know about the CMSP panel I might order a few more just in case.

Edited December 31, 2014 by Reoze

[Hansolo]

Depends on what type of input you are using. A normal joystick interface only runs 5VDC.

In reality for the pit it doesn't matter whether your switch is rates for 30VDC or 230VAC. You are not going to overload them.

 

Just for info. These won't do the functions for ON-OFF-(ON) but they are locking and I am using these for the AHCP;

http://dk.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=S7AL-ROvirtualkey63300000virtualkey633-S7AL-RO

http://dk.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=S21AL-ROvirtualkey63300000virtualkey633-S21AL-RO

 

Cheers

Hans

[Boltz]

Reoze: We will only be putting 5V and a few milliamps through the switches but you just can't beat that nice "clunk" feeling when you push the switch. It really feels like you are switching 110VAC when you flick the inverter switches :pilotfly:

[Reoze]

Thanks, that makes a lot more sense honestly. I was sitting here reading about voltage spikes when switches are in partial contact as the reasoning behind it on google last night.