Analog Collective Control with Arduino. Help needed!

[Mambouna]

Hello everyone, I'm very new to this forum and to building physical input devices, so please excuse any incompetence on my part.

 

I want to build an analog collective for the Huey helicopter. I have an Arduino Uno, but I could get others if needed. So far I want to use a potentiometer to control the analog input of the collective. I have a basic potentiometer, and I've already gotten it to work with DCS by using DCS-Bios. However DCS-Bios doesn't have the inputs for the Collective, the Cyclic or the Pedals.

 

So here is my main question:

How can I use my Arduino board in conjunction with a potentiometer to influence collective input on the DCS Huey simulation? Is this possible at all?

 

Apart from the actual collective problem, I would also appreciate any other suggestions or ideas for different approaches if the potentiometer becomes a dead end.

 

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help me!

 

Jannis

 

EDIT:

 

I have finished the construction of the collective. It's very basic and honestly ugly compared to some of the stuff others and Deezle have made,

but it was my first project of the type, so I'm happy with it. I'm just waiting for the Arduino Micro to arrive so that I can sart using it for real.

Thanks again for all of the advice!

 

Jannis

 

P.S.: Pictures follow

 

All the materials.

 

During construction.

 

The finished product.

 

Here is the connection of the rotating axis to the potentiometer on the left.

 

THANKS!

Edited July 16, 2016 by Mambouna

[Deezle]

UnoJoy will allow you do turn your Uno into an HID, I'm using a Mega for my collective build. I can help a bit more later today if you need it.

[Brewnix]

Hi! If you need a cheap solid program for doing input devices This thread is about a cool program free to the DIY'er and easy to navigate. Build your input device and load the software and it has multi programming ability for the input device you load. The board you can buy is really inexpensive where you get it ebay and amazon. and maybe local store.

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=120049

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3899105/1

 

Check these 2 threads for ideas and help and getting started. Just a idea! You can place up to 8 pots and multiple buttons. Rotary encoders and button matrix's. It supports a lot.

[Mambouna]

Thanks for the quick awnsers!

 

Seeing as these Pro Micros are extremely cheap, I ordered one. Should arrive in a few days, until then, I'll try UnoJoy since it works with the Uno.

 

Edit:

But I have a questions about UnoJoy. If I install UnoJoy, can I still use the same Arduino Uno for communication with DCS-Bios and the normal

features of the Arduino board?

 

Deezle, would you mind sharing a picture or more of your setup?

I have a few ideas for the physical build, but more input can never hurt. :)

 

Jannis

Edited July 14, 2016 by Mambouna
Wanted to add a question

[FSFIan]

But I have a questions about UnoJoy. If I install UnoJoy, can I still use the same Arduino Uno for communication with DCS-Bios and the normal

features of the Arduino board?

 

No. The UnoJoy project works by reprogramming the USB-to-serial converter chip (which on the original Uno is just another microcontroller, an ATMega16U2) to interpret the data from the serial port and present it as a game controller to the computer, instead of presenting it to the computer as a virtual COM port device. Thus you gain USB gamepad functionality but lose the serial port.

[Mambouna]

Ok, thanks for the info, since I only have one Uno so far that'll have to wait as well.

Still a lot of helpful advice so quickly, thanks! Once I get it working with the new Arduino I'll post the results, and if I fail, I can always ask more.

 

I really have to say it's a very helpful community around here, nice to see!

[Deezle]

Thanks for the quick awnsers!

 

Seeing as these Pro Micros are extremely cheap, I ordered one. Should arrive in a few days, until then, I'll try UnoJoy since it works with the Uno.

 

Edit:

But I have a questions about UnoJoy. If I install UnoJoy, can I still use the same Arduino Uno for communication with DCS-Bios and the normal

features of the Arduino board?

 

Deezle, would you mind sharing a picture or more of your setup?

I have a few ideas for the physical build, but more input can never hurt. :)

 

Jannis

Here's my build thread. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=169671

 

And as mentioned, when you turn it into an HID you lose DCS-Bios functionality. I like DCS-Bios but it's too module limited for me, so I everything I build works as a normal HID.

[Brewnix]

Hello everyone, I'm very new to this forum and to building physical input devices, so please excuse any incompetence on my part.

 

I want to build an analog collective for the Huey helicopter. I have an Arduino Uno, but I could get others if needed. So far I want to use a potentiometer to control the analog input of the collective. I have a basic potentiometer, and I've already gotten it to work with DCS by using DCS-Bios. However DCS-Bios doesn't have the inputs for the Collective, the Cyclic or the Pedals.

 

So here is my main question:

How can I use my Arduino board in conjunction with a potentiometer to influence collective input on the DCS Huey simulation? Is this possible at all?

 

Apart from the actual collective problem, I would also appreciate any other suggestions or ideas for different approaches if the potentiometer becomes a dead end.

 

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help me!

 

Jannis

 

EDIT:

 

I have finished the construction of the collective. It's very basic and honestly ugly compared to some of the stuff others and Deezle have made,

but it was my first project of the type, so I'm happy with it. I'm just waiting for the Arduino Micro to arrive so that I can sart using it for real.

Thanks again for all of the advice!

 

Jannis

 

P.S.: Pictures follow

 

All the materials.

 

During construction.

 

The finished product.

 

Here is the connection of the rotating axis to the potentiometer on the left.

 

THANKS!

Nice! I think you did a outstanding job!

[Peter_Pilot]

Here's my collective I made six years ago, it is still working very well today, I have been flying the Gazelle with it.

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=54830

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1193415&postcount=234

 

Pete.

[Warhog]

You should probably have a read through this thread. http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3899105/1

 

It will bring you up to speed on the interface you can create in order to talk to DCS as it relates to control axis's.

 

I would also suggest you loose the potentiometer all together. If you going to spend the time making a custom collective you should consider using a better type of sensor than a pot. I'm in the midst of researching and designing new pedals and stick for my cockpit. And from what I have learned so far, the TLE5010 sensor and a round ceramic magnet will give you a much cleaner and a more precise input signal than a pot could ever provide. It will also last much longer than a pot would and the cost is negligible.

 

Check it out and do some reading on it. There is lots of info available from a goggle search.

 

Good luck with you project.

[Mambouna]

Thanks for your suggestion Warhog.

I've already gotten the Potentiometer to work with the Arduino Uno and UnoJoy,

so Software wise I'm set up. But I will take a look at the alternative for a Potentiometer,

so thank you for that.

I would also have one more question.

The sensor you mentioned, is it a Hall Effect sensor? If it is, I would know how to use it with Arduino, but if it's a different type of sensor, do you know if it is easily usible with Arduino?

 

Thanks in advance!

[Sokol1_br]

TLE501x is not HALL sensor, but "magnet resistance sensor", in practice work similar to HALL sensor, using the magnet field as reference.

Think the basic difference is: HALL sensor use the magnet field force, magneto resistance use the magnet field direction.

For joystick use result more simple to setup, is less depended of magnet placement than HALL.

 

But different from HALL sensor what is connected in controller board in analog mode - like a potentiometer sending voltage variation - TLE501x is connected in digital mode as has internal 16? bit ADC and send binary code and not voltage variation, thus more stable signal, and so need be connect in controller board through 6 wires and need a digital compatible firmware (as MMjoy2 is).

 

BTW - This HALL sensor is not much expensive and avoid DIY assembly, have models with 35, 60... 360 degrees.

 

Already tested in joystick as pot replacement, CH Combatstick stick modernized with MMjoy2 as USB controller and in Cougar TQS, this using RS TUSBA USB adapter.

 

PDF: http://preview.tinyurl.com/glsg5fo

 

You connect HALL sensor in Arduino boards in the same way that connect potentiometer: +5V, Gnd, Signal.

Edited July 27, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[Diode663]

I wouldn't go with the tle5010. It requires too much computation on the arduino side. The tt one above is a good alternative and and melexis makes chips that output a 0 to 5 volt signal much like a standard pot but without the noise. Much easier to interface with in my opinion.

[Sokol1_br]

Diode,

 

You know what Melexis model can be used in DIY?

 

Some of their models require program - and thus a expensive ($$$$) hardware programmer - e.g. the Melexis MLX 90333 "3D" used in Warthog, X-55.

 

And some come programmed and should be suitable for DIY, but what model?

 

Sample of programmed: https://www.melexis.com/en/product/MLX90290/SMD-Factory-Programmed-Linear-Hall-Sensor

 

Much easier to interface with in my opinion.

 

Electrically yes, 3 wires against 6, but this "magnet resistance" have the advantage that is "adapt for the magnet field presence", with DIY HALL sensor you need adapt the magnet field for the sensor middle position, with trial and error, tedious and PITA.

Edited August 7, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[UH1Fan]

I found this recently and it looks like it would be a lot easier to set up than the typical hall effect sensor and separate magnet. It comes in various shaft diameters.

 

http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/model-6120/24400

Edited August 6, 2016 by UH1Fan
additional info

[Sokol1_br]

This Bi-Tech 612x model is good for use as "potentiometer " replacement in some cases.

 

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4224293/Re:_Cougar_TQS_potentiomter_pi#Post4224293

 

But in some joysticks gimbal will be complicated to fit - they are big.

Edited August 8, 2016 by Sokol1_br