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How to fly a helicopter with only a Extreme 3D Pro?


JazonXD

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So I've always been flying with the fixed-wing stuff and I've got the A-10C to work with the 3D Pro just perfectly fine. I don't use the rudder twist because the sensor seems kinda screwed up so in normal flight, I never use rudder.

 

However, I'm wondering how I can manage with a rotary wing without rudder pedals and only a 3D Pro?

 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks!

AMD 5600X -- Gigabyte RTX 3070 Vision -- 32GB 3600MHz DDR4 -- HP Reverb G2 -- Logitech 3D Extreme Pro -- Thrustmaster TWCS

BRRRT!  Car and aviation enthusiast, gun nut and computer nerd! 🙂

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Honestly - go cheap and use keyboard for rudder, or go crazy and get some hardware in place ...

Intel i7-13700KF :: ROG STRIX Z790-A GAMING WIFI D4 :: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB ::  MSI RTX 4080  Gaming X Trio  :: VKB Gunfighter MK.III MCG Ultimate :: VPC MongoosT-50 CM3 :: non-VR :: single player :: open beta

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I've been flying the helicopters in DCS for years with the trusty Extreme 3D Pro.. with little problem. I find the twist axis perfectly fine for my needs.

 

My suggestion:

 

Set all axis (Pitch, Roll, Yaw) with 15% curvature, and a 5% deadzone.

 

Yeah, maybe the rudder twist is a hit or miss with the 3D pros. For some reason, my sensor seems to be crap and it's constantly off centre. I've tried calibrating it many times, unplugging/plugging back in, etc. still doesn't work. Trying to twist it completely in one direction would yield only about 50% that way and then twisting only half way the other direction is full rudder deflection that other way. It sits centre at about 40% deflection to the right. I've just unbound rudder twist entirely :p

AMD 5600X -- Gigabyte RTX 3070 Vision -- 32GB 3600MHz DDR4 -- HP Reverb G2 -- Logitech 3D Extreme Pro -- Thrustmaster TWCS

BRRRT!  Car and aviation enthusiast, gun nut and computer nerd! 🙂

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I had that stick and the potentiometers in it are garbage. It's a very comfortable stick, but after trying to control the Huey with it, I upgraded to a T.16000M. Some here will say you need a full HOTAS set with pedals to fly helicopters in DCS and nothing else will do. Well, I manage to do just fine with just a twist grip even though I did use pedals before, but they won't fit under my current desk. In case of the Ka-50, it should be possible with just a stick and keyboard. Better controllers will give you a better experience certainly, but you don't HAVE to spend a few hundred bucks before you can have fun.

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I had that stick and the potentiometers in it are garbage. It's a very comfortable stick, but after trying to control the Huey with it, I upgraded to a T.16000M. Some here will say you need a full HOTAS set with pedals to fly helicopters in DCS and nothing else will do. Well, I manage to do just fine with just a twist grip even though I did use pedals before, but they won't fit under my current desk. In case of the Ka-50, it should be possible with just a stick and keyboard. Better controllers will give you a better experience certainly, but you don't HAVE to spend a few hundred bucks before you can have fun.

 

Interesting and thanks for the insight.

AMD 5600X -- Gigabyte RTX 3070 Vision -- 32GB 3600MHz DDR4 -- HP Reverb G2 -- Logitech 3D Extreme Pro -- Thrustmaster TWCS

BRRRT!  Car and aviation enthusiast, gun nut and computer nerd! 🙂

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Yeah, maybe the rudder twist is a hit or miss with the 3D pros. For some reason, my sensor seems to be crap and it's constantly off centre. I've tried calibrating it many times, unplugging/plugging back in, etc. still doesn't work. Trying to twist it completely in one direction would yield only about 50% that way and then twisting only half way the other direction is full rudder deflection that other way. It sits centre at about 40% deflection to the right. I've just unbound rudder twist entirely :p

 

Depending on how old your stick is... it might be time to get a new one. They're so cheap I've really had no qualms with getting a new one every 3-4 years.

 

Last month my most recent stick went out of calibration with a permanent left bank. I found a youtube video on how to take it apart, did so, fiddled and soaked the offending potentiometer in rubbing alcohol.. works like new now. Good luck on your decision.

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Depending on how old your stick is... it might be time to get a new one. They're so cheap I've really had no qualms with getting a new one every 3-4 years.

 

Last month my most recent stick went out of calibration with a permanent left bank. I found a youtube video on how to take it apart, did so, fiddled and soaked the offending potentiometer in rubbing alcohol.. works like new now. Good luck on your decision.

 

Haha, I think I know which video you're talking about. I was meaning to take it apart and try to fix it, but never got the time to. But I definitely will some day.

 

As for the age of the joystick, I've only had it for a few months before it showed problems with the rudder twist. Since I've disabled it, I've probably had the joystick for another few months making that a total of probably 1 year + 2~3 months

AMD 5600X -- Gigabyte RTX 3070 Vision -- 32GB 3600MHz DDR4 -- HP Reverb G2 -- Logitech 3D Extreme Pro -- Thrustmaster TWCS

BRRRT!  Car and aviation enthusiast, gun nut and computer nerd! 🙂

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