pchRage Posted July 27, 2019 Posted July 27, 2019 Got the TUSBA for independent use of my Cougar throttle to use alongside by TM Warthog (no intention of using Cougar stick). The TUSBA works as advertised, BUT... Within an hour or two, the throttle pot gave up the ghost and its min/max are shot. I hear the HAL kit is now unavailable??? Other options?? (TM oem pot only?) And, apparently the microstick is shot too. Any options for that? At least the Ant and Elev controls I soldered in a few years ago still seem ok! Feels like its going to be a race between getting this controller up to spec and ED's F16 EA :-) Thanks in advance!
Rudel_chw Posted July 27, 2019 Posted July 27, 2019 For the microstick: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3600824&postcount=2 For work: iMac mid-2010 of 27" - Core i7 870 - 6 GB DDR3 1333 MHz - ATI HD5670 - SSD 256 GB - HDD 2 TB - macOS High Sierra For Gaming: 34" Monitor - Ryzen 3600 - 32 GB DDR4 2400 - nVidia RTX2080 - SSD 1.25 TB - HDD 10 TB - Win10 Pro - TM HOTAS Cougar Mobile: iPad Pro 12.9" of 256 GB
Sokol1_br Posted July 27, 2019 Posted July 27, 2019 (edited) Within an hour or two, the throttle pot gave up the ghost and its min/max are shot. I hear the HAL kit is now unavailable??? Other options?? (TM oem pot only?) CubPilot HALL kit (with Midori HALL sensor) is no longer available, the manufacturer pass away years ago. BTW - Original TQS pot (CTS) is no longer manufactured, but may find in old stock, an similar is available (used in T.16000M twist rudder) but need pole adaptation for use in TQS. https://br.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CTS-Electronic-Components/251B12T104A2NB/?qs=6E8igxPflKdliaNMymwp6A%3D%3D But - if have DIY skill, can use the relatively affordable (~$20) Bi-Tech 6127V160 or 40 HALL sensor - same potentiometer format and is installed like CubPilot kit with R/C linkages. Other option is GVL224 MagREZ sensor (~$10), see their sales topic there. Or Rel4y sensor (same KMZ41 of GLV224 MagREZ) - but this guy have "forum post rights" suspended. https://forums.eagle.ru/member.php?u=116928 An user review: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=225733 Or even a simple Honeywell SS495A1 or Allegro A1324EUAT do the pot job, but is PITA position the sensor correctly centered relatively to magnet, due their high sensitivity. Original TQS mini- stick (CTS ) is no longer manufactured, you need adapt a similar, eg. ALPS RKJXV1224005 (used in Deltaalphalima1 upgrade for Warthog "slew"). https://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/MultiControl/Potentiometer/RKJXK/RKJXV1224005.html Or this CTS https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/joystick-switches/1234587/ Edited July 27, 2019 by Sokol1_br
pchRage Posted July 27, 2019 Author Posted July 27, 2019 thanks for the info! Looks like I have some work cut out for me!
EchoBravo Posted August 14, 2019 Posted August 14, 2019 And, apparently the microstick is shot too. Any options for that? For some time my microstick on my cougar was giving erroneous inputs driving the cursor in odd directions. I looked for replacement microsticks but so far have not been able to locate an actual replacement. The microstick is no longer manufactured. I tried blowing it out with compressed air thinking maybe some dust was causing the issue. no help really. So i got some contact cleaner for electrical parts. After the cleaning it performed perfectly.
pchRage Posted August 24, 2019 Author Posted August 24, 2019 For some time my microstick on my cougar was giving erroneous inputs driving the cursor in odd directions. I looked for replacement microsticks but so far have not been able to locate an actual replacement. The microstick is no longer manufactured. I tried blowing it out with compressed air thinking maybe some dust was causing the issue. no help really. So i got some contact cleaner for electrical parts. After the cleaning it performed perfectly. @EchoBravo, how did you go about cleaning it. Did you just take it out from the throttle and clean the outsides/leads? Did you take apart the actual microstick control? thanks!
pchRage Posted August 31, 2019 Author Posted August 31, 2019 got the hal kit @Rel4yand installed, super easy and no more axis spikes! I cleaned the microstick with some electrical spray, but unfortunately it isnt any better. maybe with a really smart axis curve and deadcenter config it will be manage-able. BUT... DCS is recognizing the TUSBA and will even show the "default mapped" axis as moving..but when I try to ASSIGN an AXIS..it doesn't recognize it at all! So I have no way to test this thing out! Any ideas on getting DCS to recognize the axis when "moving"? Also, same problem when clicking the buttons, they dont see to want to map either.
pchRage Posted September 1, 2019 Author Posted September 1, 2019 correction. I am able to map buttons, and I can manually assign axis, but it will not auto set. for the thrust, I think the TUSBA min, idle, mil, af, and max sub settings are mucking with DCS ability to pick axis
pchRage Posted September 1, 2019 Author Posted September 1, 2019 Sorry for the play by play. Was able to get those 5 axis to act as one (joy.cpl to the rescue). Was even able to get the microstick working (tubsa is doing insane masking of axis issues). So I'm pretty much in business, BUT I really think I need to get a new microstick somehow... will re-read some of the above recommendations and see where that gets me. Wondering If the Throttle will be ready before or after the DCS module :)
Sokol1_br Posted September 1, 2019 Posted September 1, 2019 The original CTS mini-stick used in Cougar QTS was discontinued in ~2015. As replacement use ALPS RKJXV1224005, may require some adaptation due slight different size. Or some "PS4" mini-stick from eBay.
pchRage Posted September 1, 2019 Author Posted September 1, 2019 thanks Sokol1_br When you say, "adapt it". what does that mean? is it too big and needs a bit of trimming with a dremel, or something specific to soldering or wiring? thanks!
Sokol1_br Posted September 1, 2019 Posted September 1, 2019 Is need check datasheet for see if are differences in physical size of the old and the ALPS, differences that may need open more the fixation hole, or use some shim under the new. Datasheet of original (discontinued) CTS 252A104B60NB https://br.mouser.com/datasheet/2/96/252-1329.pdf ALPS RKJXV1224005 (used in Deltaalphalima1 mod for Warthog slew). https://datasheet.octopart.com/RKJXV1224005-ALPS-datasheet-37145128.pdf
pchRage Posted September 2, 2019 Author Posted September 2, 2019 Ordered a RKJXV122400, will see how the fitment goes!
pchRage Posted September 5, 2019 Author Posted September 5, 2019 The good news is the RKJXV122400 arrived. Bad news it doesn't looks like it's going to work. 1. the microstick stick itself is about 2-3x larger diameter than the original, meaning the button-hat will not fit. 2. its has no circuit board! I'm guessing i'd have to de-solder the current one and then solder this on. Maybe I can order a board to solve #2, but not sure what to do about #1. Looking at similar models, doesn't seem to have a match...
RustBelt Posted September 5, 2019 Posted September 5, 2019 I think this matches the size of the ALPS which is very similar to the PS3 https://www.shapeways.com/product/8JLEGTYWZ/f16-cursor-knob-spider-web?optionId=59090187
Sokol1_br Posted September 5, 2019 Posted September 5, 2019 (edited) 1. the microstick stick itself is about 2-3x larger diameter than the original, meaning the button-hat will not fit. Don't understand what is this "button-hat"? You mean the "cap" of original micro-stick? If yes, look if is possible enlarge their hole and glue in the new. Or take a metal file and tune the pole of the new until fit. 2. its has no circuit board! I'm guessing i'd have to de-solder the current one and then solder this on. You don't need circuit board, just identify the wires of the old micro-stick: X, Y axes, Power, Gnd and press button, remove this wires from old PCB and weld direct in ALP micro-stick pins. But if pins of the new match the old PCB can re-use, make more easy fit inside. BTW - You see Rel4y options for Cougar TQS, easy to adapt to F-16/F22 TQS. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Edited September 6, 2019 by Sokol1_br
pchRage Posted September 8, 2019 Author Posted September 8, 2019 Yes, button-hat == cap. That circuit board in the existing microstick helps "keep it in place" in the handle. Then there is this small black clip/shim that goes over it and further locks the stick into place. I think without that and just direct wires will mean the switch is floating around in there.
pchRage Posted October 3, 2019 Author Posted October 3, 2019 Timing is everything! Day before F16 module comes out, and I think the microstick just gave up the ghost! Anyone happen to hear of any news in last month as far as someone making a drop-in replacement?
Sokol1_br Posted October 3, 2019 Posted October 3, 2019 Talk with Debolestis (look at their Shapeways topic), may he can help you creating an adapter for today available mini-sticks.
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