Uuuuaaaah..! I have started building now..!

[crazysundog]

Good video Trigger!!

 

Now, if you ever get around to actually flying the Black Shark, your left arm is going to get HUGE from that collective!

 

good work, wish i had your talent!

[JaNk0]

Haha Trigger, that looks amazing! Nice work

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding Update - 31 May 2009 - Havin' a Whitesnake moment...

 

Good video Trigger!!

 

Now, if you ever get around to actually flying the Black Shark, your left arm is going to get HUGE from that collective!

 

good work, wish i had your talent!

 

 

Well actually I spent most of last night in multiplayer with Panzertard, watching him smoke one target after the other while I flew around like a retard..:helpsmilie:

 

Got some serious learning to do..!

 

BUT this my first flight gave me the push I needed to roll up my sleeves and do what I have been dreading I needed for some time now.. Re-Wiring both Cyclic and Collective sitck, and route all the wires to a common module.. I'm just sick of having to deal with bad connections and crappy soldering.. So now I do like the masters (read: guys like RedDog and Gene Buckle.. phuuuh.. now there's building skills for 'ya) do, and have all connections in one place in a neat and orderly fashion..

 

 

So by the immortal words of Whitesnake I mumbled "here I go again", did a REALLY COOL air-guitar solo, rolled my eyes in remeberance of numerous drummers lost to Rock & Roll heaven and got to work..!

 

I threw together the front module (IO Module that holds all IOCards, Powersupplies, PWM Amplifiers and so on) yesterday afternoon. And started re-wiring in the beautifull sunshine.:smilewink:

 

 

IO Module will have more shelves for the Opencockpit Master/expansion/whatever cards on both sides.. I just didn't need them right now, so I didn't bother making them yet.?

 

The glareshield will rest on the angled sides of the top shelf. That is why the relatively hight BU0836A Matrix is placed all the way to the rear center.

 

The holes are for.. aaarrgh.. if you can't guess what they are for I just give up..! LoL

 

 

 

 

Nice, simple and proven to work.. A plat 40-lead cable with a sturdy plug and two leads to each button.. No more shortcuts and "smart ideas".. I want this to work without a glitch now..!

 

 

 

The Cyclic was a nightmear.. I had to completly disassemble it to make room for a lot more wires..! But it turned out really good if you ask me?

 

My outdoor workplace:

 

... only one thing is hanging over me like a Demokeles sword.. I need it to be up and running by 22:00 local time.. And that's just five hours from now..! :cry:

Edited May 31, 2009 by Triggerhappy69

[HitchHikingFlatlander]

Oh dear your not hanging out on the back deck making helicopter noises are you?:pilotfly:

 

Cool stuff man and cool vid! You've really done an amazing job on that stick!:joystick:

[Triggerhappy69]

Oh dear your not hanging out on the back deck making helicopter noises are you?:pilotfly:

 

Cool stuff man and cool vid! You've really done an amazing job on that stick!:joystick:

 

Thanx mate..! I'm really quite satisfied with the new collective setup (at last). and if do the new wiring correct I might actually take a week off building and just enjoy flying..?

 

But there's always some snag.. I am experiencing that there is a preassure build up in the closed hydraulic system..? Even if I bleed off preassure by momentarily opening the one way valve every now and then. The preasure builds right back up again after a while?

[Panzertard]

... only one thing is hanging over me like a Demokeles sword.. I need it to be up and running by 22:00 local time.. And that's just five hours from now..! :cry:

No dude!

I didnt mean to push you into flying at 22:00 when you have work to do, whoops! Hehe - you keep working on the pit, you hear :D

But I still love to see the pictures of all those funky details you've spoken so lovingly about.

Nail those loose connections, we'll talk later :thumbup:

[soup55]

Excellent vid AND work Trigger! Damn, you got mad skills! You're also having too much fun! Wish I was there!!!

[Oakes]

But there's always some snag.. I am experiencing that there is a preassure build up in the closed hydraulic system..? Even if I bleed off preassure by momentarily opening the one way valve every now and then. The preasure builds right back up again after a while?

 

I've been thinking about how to do this as well. I was going to try a open-top reservoir instead of a closed system. Like this:

 

"opentop reservoir"

|

|

valve

|

|

"cylinder top plug"

 

 

If the valve is closed no fluid can flow in or out of the cylinder and the collective is stuck. With the valve open fluid flows freely both directions from the reservoir. With the open top reservoir any temperature changes, leaks etc won't affect the amount of fluid/pressure in the system.

 

/Oakes

[CyBerkut]

But there's always some snag.. I am experiencing that there is a preassure build up in the closed hydraulic system..? Even if I bleed off preassure by momentarily opening the one way valve every now and then. The preasure builds right back up again after a while?

 

Trigger, can you give us a sketch of how your collective's hydraulic system is currently configured?

 

What is the symptom being exhibited of the pressure building up (ie. Resistance to movement in 1 direction, or both directions of movement)?

 

I have a suspicion as to what is happening, but I don't know for certain what your current configuration is.

[Triggerhappy69]

Collective Stick Hydraulics - The Closed loop dilemma..!

 

Trigger, can you give us a sketch of how your collective's hydraulic system is currently configured?

 

I can give you pictures instead?

 

It's a closed loop system from a double action air cylinder that pumps thin oil through a valve (collective brake) and into the other side of the cylinder.

 

 

There's a header tank (made from an old syringe) that is connected trhough a one way valve.

 

 

The cylinder.

 

 

The valve is actuated from the rotorbrake handle.

 

 

and... I'm not quite sure why I took this picture? But here it is anyway..:doh:

 

 

What is the symptom being exhibited of the pressure building up (ie. Resistance to movement in 1 direction, or both directions of movement)?

 

That's hard to say to be honest.. (thinking) Hang on! It always builds up preassure so that the collective stick wants to move up if I just press the handle. Is that what you mean?

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding update - 2 June 2009 - again with the soldering..

 

I have said this before, and I will say it again 'till I either die, or I'm releaved from this most tedious and boring activity.. SOLDERING S*CKS..!

 

 

 

 

From picture one to picture two took forever.. Not that the soldering was anything fancy? But from this point on I have to document everything I do (as far as wiring go) for future reference.. And that takes A LOT of time..!

 

Suddenly issues like "what type of code should I use to gat a uniform and simple way of knowing exactly where this switch is placed?" and " How can I do the same with the wiring so that Coll-AX1-3S-P14-BU01-8 actually means something to me a year from now?"

 

There's bound to be maintanace jobs in the future for the Pit. And I have to give myself good referance points to work from..

 

So "Coll-AX1-3S-P14-BU01-8" would be:

"Coll" = Collective stick, to describe what module it starts from. Like APU, WSCP (weapon system control panel) and so on.

 

"AX1" = Axis number one. it's an axis and not a button (B) or a switch (SW)

 

"3S" = It's one out of three wires related to this function. And this one carries the signal (S)! The others could be "5V" or "3V" or "-".

 

"P14" = from the input (potmeter) it's first connection point Pin number 14 in a plug.

 

"BU01" = The next is in controllercard BU0836A number one

 

"8" = And it should be in input number 8 of this card.

 

This way I hope to be able to trace every wire from start to end by their code.? (I did say "hope" didn't I?)

 

So this wire starts at axle number one.. the Collective stick Hall Effect Sensor:

 

And then it passes through pin 14 in the first connection plug:

 

And from there it runs continously to the first of my (or Leo's) BU0836A controller cards:

 

Ending up in input number eight..

 

I drilled holes and threaded them for 3mm hex bolts to fasten both the 37 pin connector and the switch for collective brake.

.. it just looks sooo much more tidy with metal don't you agree?

 

 

The Collective box it secured in place now. All wires tested (from here to connector one..)

 

And as soon as I have painted that awfull red button white, and made a black screen covering the mini joystick from dust and my shame. I'll consider this part 100% operational..:thumbup:

 

Even the Cyclic stick got a face lift today:

 

Naturally it will be covered by ALU plates. But I want to make a panel for the indicator LED's from the MS SWFFB stick and the Dirving Force to. Just so that I can open a small lid and check that they both have power and don't need calibrating and such.. Shuold save me from having to exit the SIM when the FFB dissapears suddenly..?

 

And the fans for the left rear wall have a coat of white now. Testfitting them just to admire my own work..

 

 

Agian I have to point out that only the inner white circle will show after I place the coverplate over them.. And they will get a new hub made from 2mm Acryllic painted white. So they look like "the real thing" even up close.

[Triggerhappy69]

... BTW.. If you are using hall effect sensors in any mod you do, remeber to have the sensor rotate between TWO MAGNETS like this:

 

and not ONE MAGNET like this:

 

.. I have no clue why (yet), but the two magnet setup seems to give me a whole lot more precise read out..?

I'll try to figure out why...

[Triggerhappy69]

Snagging before bedtime...

 

I've been thinking about how to do this as well. I was going to try a open-top reservoir instead of a closed system. Like this:

 

"opentop reservoir"

|

|

valve

|

|

"cylinder top plug"

 

 

If the valve is closed no fluid can flow in or out of the cylinder and the collective is stuck. With the valve open fluid flows freely both directions from the reservoir. With the open top reservoir any temperature changes, leaks etc won't affect the amount of fluid/pressure in the system.

 

/Oakes

 

 

I think you might be onto something there mate.. :thumbup:

[Triggerhappy69]

Excellent vid AND work Trigger! Damn, you got mad skills! You're also having too much fun! Wish I was there!!!

 

 

Thanx Ken..

 

Well just jump on a plane and c'mon over then..? I think we both know it would seriously delay the progress, but THE FUN my friend.. There's never enough fun to be had..!:megalol:

 

 

Ps. give the Mrs. a hug from me..

[CyBerkut]

Trigger, I think you should remove the check valve (one way valve). If you still wish to keep the resevoir, then substitute an isolation valve instead (for the check valve).

 

What I believe is happening is that when you move the collective in the "up" direction, it is creating a lower pressure on the corresponding side of the fluid loop, and sucking in some (additional) fluid from the resevoir through the check valve.

 

Your current configuration, as I understand it, is not truly a closed loop. It is effectively closed when you move the stick down, and the puts back pressure upon the check valve, keeping it seated. It is effectively semi-open when you move the stick up, since that reduces the relative pressure and allows the check valve to open and let additional fluid get sucked in.

 

To make the fluid loop a closed loop under normal operation, replace the check valve with an isolation valve. That will allow you to keep the resevoir for when you need to do a (re)fill, by temporarily opening the isolation valve... just close it before flying.

[CyBerkut]

BTW, this would essentially take you back to what we talked about way back earlier in the thread...

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=612063&postcount=469

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=612063&postcount=470

 

;)

[Rockeyes]

How about plumbing in an accumulator?

[CyBerkut]

An accumulator wouldn't be helpful to what the intended function is. Remember, this isn't a hydraulic power system... it's just a fluid loop for locking the collective handle when the brake is released.

[Rockeyes]

It does not need to be a ‘power system’ for an accumulator to be of use, any way just chipping in. Looks like any build up of pressure would move the piston in one direction initially due to the different acting surface area’s of the ram/actuator. A schematic would be handy.

I was thinking about a sprung brake on and a hydraulic release system for my pit. That’s if I ever get around to building it. Please keep the posts going Trigger as I’m I lost without my daily fix from you and Oakes.

Edited June 3, 2009 by Rockeyes
typo

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding update - June 4th 2009 - A picture say more than a thousand words!

 

Guys, guys, guys!

 

What is an accumulator in hydraulics, and how does it work?

 

I have ordered a couple of simple valves for "fill" and "drain" like on the scetch like you posted. And I'm kicking myself for not listening to you in the first place :cry:.. But you knoiw.. "live and learn.."

 

This is what keeps me occupied today:

 

 

.. and this is just the cable for the Cycli#k stick buttons..! There's another for the Collective Stick that is twise as big. Not including the Rotor speed Governor..

 

By my own calculations I should be doing my first complete test either late tonight or tomorrow..!

 

Notice on the picture with the orange wires (axis connection for collective mini-joystick a,d main collective axis) that I have pulled an extra wire from the 5V+ connector on the BU0836A card to feed the Hall effect sensors.

I'm not sure this will work yet, but I read on Leo Bodnars support forum that he recomends this additional feed to make sure there is enough "juice" to feed the sensors.. If it fails misserably, I'll let you know..!

[CyBerkut]

Guys, guys, guys!

 

What is an accumulator in hydraulics, and how does it work?

 

I have ordered a couple of simple valves for "fill" and "drain" like on the scetch like you posted. And I'm kicking myself for not listening to you in the first place :cry:.. But you knoiw.. "live and learn.."

 

Accumulator info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_accumulator

 

Basically, it is a device for storing pressure. Typically, they are used to smooth out the pressure cycles in hydraulic powered systems. This lets the designers either run the pumps less often, or use smaller pumps.

 

For your fluid flow restriction system, I'd recommend against incorporating one, as pressure build-up is not what you are looking for.

 

As for modifying your current setup... you can keep the resevoir, as it could be convenient. Just replace the check valve with a shut-off valve, and keep it closed normally. Just open it when you fill the fluid system. With the quality of your system build, you shouldn't need to replace leaked fluid very often. :)

[CyBerkut]

The wiring system is looking gooood!

 

It's nice when you can incorporate an industrial grade termination system. You won't regret it!

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding Update - 12 June 2008 - "Idle hands...." and making the ribs

 

I'll test your ideas as soon as I get back home guys.. First by removing both the reservoir and one-way-valve, then I got an idea from my father (also known as "my old man, the engineer").

 

We discussed the matter over breakfast, and he pointed out that since I am using an old HUGE syringe as reservoir I might have something that could work just by leaving a small air pocket in it (working as a small capasitator). to suck up" exesive forces used on the Collective stick in panic situations.? I would have to fix the piston in some way, but that would be quite simple..

 

However I'll test this just for fun, and since it requires no modification to the system other than removing the one way valve..

 

After that has been tried and tested I'll wait for my two new ball-valves to arrive and mount them. Simply because I know that this WILL work..!

(...again.. I wish I'd gone with your advice from the start mate..:doh:)

 

I have been away to have some sorely missed quality time with my better half the last week (.. yes, I do have one.. LoL).

But pitbuilding has not been wiped from the agenda..

 

 

 

 

 

Inspired by the russian pitbuilder from the other thread ( http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=42199 ), and the sweet way he's buildt the frame for the outer shell. I have started the drawings for my own based on the same principle..

 

Also it has become clear to me that now that the mechanics are done and working, and I have started the wiring I need to think a little furter in the project..? My first version of the IO Module might as well be shaped to the outlines of the cockpit shell from the beginning? And after the IO Module comes the Right Vertical Panel (mains switches and fire suppression), and this needs a "Wall" to hang on?

 

And thatnx to Oakdown's :thumbup: splendid work building me a 3D DXF cockpit, I can now make all the ribs and ensure that they fit the existing parts..

 

Rep Inbound with lot's of thanx mate..:thumbup:

[Triggerhappy69]

.. keepin' it simple..

 

I need to finish this front ASAP so I can bin the ugly not-very-cool-looking IO Module and replace it with this smooth little thing.:

 

However It needs to be correct so the sidewalls, windows and all panels fit inside of it to..

 

But now the rush is over... for a while.. I have a 100% complete working HOCAS, and I'm tearing up (virtuell) holes in the sky.. Yahoo..!:thumbup:

[Panzertard]

Woho! You can fly again? Finally! :D

Now join us at the 159th server - or rather, another day ... it's too damn late here.

 

Well done, Trigger! :)