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Posted (edited)

UV lights and Compass light OK, but Cockpit light always throws breaker, and then even UV lights seem  inconsistent.

Cannot complete night mission without this problem.

Edited by whurst1

                                                                                                 

 

 

55" HD Samsung, ASUS Z590 ROG Maximus Hero XIII, MSI RTX 4070TI Gaming X Slim 12GB GDDR6X, Intel i5 11600k, Corsair 64 GB RAM

 

  • whurst1 changed the title to P-47 Cockpit Light Broken
Posted (edited)

This, or something different?

 

Edited by -0303-

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  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 2/14/2021 at 6:04 PM, whurst1 said:

UV lights and Compass light OK, but Cockpit light always throws breaker, and then even UV lights seem  inconsistent.

Cannot complete night mission without this problem.

 

Apart the bug, I can (at least it seems to me) to activate only spotlight and cockpit light...not UV. How to activate UV lights?

Thx.

 

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Same issue here, especially at dusk....

Mainboard: ASUS Maximus X Hero Intel Z 370
CPU: Intel 12-Core i7-8086K @ 4.0 GHz    Memory: 32GB Corsair DDR4-3000 MHz
Graphics Card: ASUS NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB
Monitor ASUS - Oled PG42UQ 41.5" @ 4K    1 SSD Samsung 860 PRO 256 GB    1 SSD Samsung 990 PRO NVMe M.2 4 TB
Windows 11 Home - 64    CH Products Combatstick, Throttle and Pedals

Posted

+1
Until it gets fixed... not really a solution, but just a poorman's workaround: the breaker doesn't pop when you turn the cockpit light rheostat only "some", somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 of full travel, can't remember exactly off the top of my head. The light's a bit dimmer then, but maybe bright enough for anybody?
Disclaimer: Haven't tested it in recent months, but it used to work like that around the turn of 2021.

 

i7-8700K 32GB 3060Ti 27"@1080p TM Hawg HOTAS TPR TIR5 SD-XL 2xSD+ HC Bravo button/pot box

Posted

Well, this is all not satisfactory... 

I sincerely hope ED is aware of this.

Mainboard: ASUS Maximus X Hero Intel Z 370
CPU: Intel 12-Core i7-8086K @ 4.0 GHz    Memory: 32GB Corsair DDR4-3000 MHz
Graphics Card: ASUS NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB
Monitor ASUS - Oled PG42UQ 41.5" @ 4K    1 SSD Samsung 860 PRO 256 GB    1 SSD Samsung 990 PRO NVMe M.2 4 TB
Windows 11 Home - 64    CH Products Combatstick, Throttle and Pedals

Posted

- I twist the rheostat to the max, then back it up couple of degrees and the light stays on without problems (the breaker doesn't pop)

- cockpit light switch works ok, the spot lights are engaged

- the blue light (UV) also works, although it starts off pretty dim, so you need to twist both left and right light caps to the max in order to get some decent illumination.

Posted (edited)

I didn't find anything in this old manual about this but the Electric system of the plane being quiet complete, i wouldn't be surprised as it is close to the reality and was reported by veteran fighters/Engineers ?

Right now you either can choose to use the cockpit light or the UV light at 80% or both with the UV lights being fairly low (25%).  It's subjective of the monitor/Vr used of course but i never have issue using a gamma of 1.8
 

Edited by Tuturuu
  • 10 months later...
Posted (edited)

To turn on UV lights: set rheostat to "start" position for around 10 seconds, then move it back to "out" position. Do not leave it in start position or the UV lamps will blow out. It takes up to minute until the fluorescent paint will start shine on gauges.

Edit 2: From my experience the UV lights are modeled properly only in Mig-15. In P-51D the UV lights are modelled wrong - there it works like common bulb on rheostat and not like UV lamp which must be held in "start" position for few seconds and then turned back to "out" position. In other modules I don't know because I don't own them.

Edited by AJaromir
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Here I made small video tutorial. As I wrote, it will take time to fully shine. Aslo it will take time to fully exhaust. This is how fluorescent paint works. The UV light does not make gauges shining. It provides energy to fluorescent paint which then emits light. The start position is to warm up UV light electrodes. Same principle like fluorescent lamp starter. But here the start is made manually.

Note: It still does not work as it should. It is not possible to blow out the UV lamps when the rheostat is in "start" position.

 

Edited by AJaromir
  • Thanks 2
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I was also wondering how UV works. There seems to be nothing about it in the manual (or not easy to search). I never understood why the top position "turns it off!", but later I figured out the meaning of START - and also noticed, that the rheostat moves back a notch. I'm curious whether the real thing is spring-loaded or temporarily latched somehow.

This makes it difficult to use with an axis because the max position on the axis is not the max position before starter (unless I experiment with some saturation which I might). Using inc/dec button action is perhaps better. But that one makes it also difficult to stop before the starter positon. Perhaps the start should be different binding and leave only the rest of the travel for inc/dec or axis mapping. Tough stuff.

Finally, the CB, it seems to do the bad stuff only in START position, but that would make sense. When it pops out of it to the normal max position I have much harder time to pop the CB.

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