Pitch problems

[Ernohauki]

Hello everyone,

 

I bought black shark few days ago and have been learning how to fly the thing. I have learned the flying quite well already but i have one problem. Pitching forwards and backwards is really sensitive. I am not quite sure if i just do something wrong or if it's somekind of other problem. When i try to fly straight the copters nose goes up and down constantly. It's so sensitive that when i change my grip from joystick without moving it much the copter goes nuts. I have been trying to adjust the curves in the options without much luck. I don't have this kind of problems with turning. Just with going forwards and backwards. Is the copter just supposed to be like that or could the problem be with my joystick? It's really cheap and crappy joystick. Would getting better one improve this? I have been using trim and those 3 autopilot helps are on.

 

Sorry if this is stupid question. I am a noob! :P

 

Thank you for your patience.

[Namenlos Ein]

It's really cheap and crappy joystick.

 

I'm sorry, but you said nothing about manufacturer and name of your joystick.

[ZaltysZ]

Curved response of joystick will give you desired effect only if helicopter is trimmed, in any other case you will get jumpiness. Try flying with linear response.

[Ernohauki]

I'm sorry, but you said nothing about manufacturer and name of your joystick.

 

Hehe sorry. I forgot to mention it. It's Logitech WingMan Force 3D. And it's old as sin.

[Sharkster64]

All the information you need is on the sticky thread on Trimming. Also watch the producers note on trimming. You are fighting the autopilot, that is why your nose is bobbing. ;)

[Skydoc]

Not sure if that is his problem. Consider increasing the dead zone on your joystick, that helped me a bit. And yes, it is very sensitive - made worse with the altitude hold engaged which happens automatically if you engage autohover and DOES NOT disengage when you disengage the autohover assist - so check that as well.

[Ernohauki]

All the information you need is on the sticky thread on Trimming. Also watch the producers note on trimming. You are fighting the autopilot, that is why your nose is bobbing. ;)

 

Hey,

 

I do trim. And the copter goes just fine if i just don't breathe. :) But it's soo sensitive that if fly lands on my joystick the copters nose dives. I have tried to increase dead zone but it doesn't really help to the sensitivity problem.

[Ramstein]

I do fly often without using trim. I find moving in short distances, it is just easier to not use trim and then have to re-adjust trim. I know that not using it is a no-no by many pilots. Also, when you setup your postion to lock and kill a target, if you do not trim, you can have a hard time getting a lock without having to trim and pitch while in a hover. But, I can do it and am quite succesful.

 

Cancelling trim to fix an ill handling chopper can sometimes be a pain, and hard to do. So, if I did not use any trim to begin with, I do not have any trim adjustment problem. This has really helped me. Try it and see if it works for those that have problems.

 

When you do trim, trim in samll incriments. A little bit is much easier to correct and adjust than a larger amount.

 

IMHO

:joystick:

[Yskonyn]

I doubt it this is trim problem for him. Sounds more like a problem with the sensitivity in the pitch axis of the joystick.

Like stated, increase the dead zone on the joystick and see if it gets better for when you're barely touching it.

 

Then for the pitch itself, check the sensitivity settings for the joystick in the windows gamecontrollers panel and then check the settings in-game.

 

If the deadzone increase did help and all your sensitivities are correct it might be that your inner components of the joystick have worn out a bit.

[SlapStik]

Increase deadspace for joystick axis up to 20 but start at 10. It helped me.

[Sharkster64]

One thing you guys have to remember is that he just bought this game. When I first got this game, I thought that the pitch was to sensitive as well. I was trimming as well, but my nose was bobbing up and down as well like crazy. I didn't really understand the trim too well though. After time in the Black Shark, and watching the producers notes, I realized that the problem was me, and that I wasn't trimming properly. Also, I don't use a FFB joystick which compounds that problem as well. But after time and experience in this sim, I don't have the problem that he is having, and I have the joystick set as sensitive as can be. I know that his problem is a trimming issue. Try flying in FD mode and see if you are getting as much bobbing as when you are in AP mode. If you are using a non FFB joystick, make sure that after you trim, you center the joystick as quickly as possible. If you don't, your nose will bob. We have to make due with what we have got. The difference with a FFB joystick and a Non FFB joystick is that the FFB joystick will stay in the position that you last trimmed when you let go of it. The Non FFB joystick will center itself after trimming when you let go of it, hence the bobbing of your nose. Make sure you watch the Producers note on trim. ;)

Edited April 11, 2009 by Sharkster64

[Smoky]

When you do trim, trim in samll incriments. A little bit is much easier to correct and adjust than a larger amount.

 

IMHO

:joystick:

 

 

This is the most valuable tip for managing trim, imho. If you don't try to achieve perfect trim in one shot, and instead do a general trim, followed by a more precise fine-tuning trim action, the results are MUCH better. If you see it as a constant maintenance thing (as trim is in many aircraft...conditions change, trim changes) then it is easier to operate and understand how it operates the way it does. Take off has one trim. Cruise another. Hover another. Landing another. And in between you have to fine tune it to deal with winds, terrain, alt changes, route requirements, etc.

 

And it does help a great deal to tune the axis. Set a dead spot that allows you to use your joystick's targeting controls (skvhal, designate, hardpoints, master arm, etc) without actual causing an axis to move.

 

Set your curves to the response rate you prefer. If you find it difficult to control during slow maneuvers then slope the curve so it is flatter in the middle. This will make the heli very stable and smooth to control, but also more sluggish and less precise across all range of maneuvers.

 

What is the real-like Ka-50 stick like I wonder? Is it a mechanical connection or fly by wire? Is it a linear control or driven through a mechanical or electrical ratio, resulting in a config like our axis curve?

 

What axis curve would best represent the real Ka-50's control feel?

Edited April 11, 2009 by Smoky

[Yskonyn]

Yeah that would be interesting to know. I don't believe the Shark is fly-by-wire but clearly with augmented flight it has a large degree of electronic assistance.

The manual is not really telling us either, is it?