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Posted
Oh ya that is going to be great How much work will it be to make it work for the AQU 6?

 

The HSI I got is a ID-1013, which is similar in that it has the 2 bearing needles. It's going to take forever to get working. There are 8 synchro receivers in it (bearing 1, bearing 2, azimuth, heading command differential, course command differential, hundreds, tens, units). There are two synchro transmitters (course and heading).

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Posted

E-bay spoils have started showing up.

 

 

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I'm half way through converting the VVI to a stepper motor. Should finish it tomorrow night.

Posted (edited)
I'm half way through converting the VVI to a stepper motor. Should finish it tomorrow night.

 

Great if you can share some pics of the process if possible. i.e. where and how you attach the stepper and sensor and other modifications needed. Haven't yet gutted my VVI so it would save me a lot of tinkering :)

 

Best

Gus

Edited by Duckling

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Posted
Nice stuff, I have never looked in to these too much. What type of motor is normally used in the gauges?

Depends on the type of gauges. Mechanical ones like the VVI take direct input. For example the VVI is ported to outside air pressure. Inside it was essentially a barometer with some prints and gears which made the needle move as a function of air pressure change over time. Other gauges are run off synchro's primarily. There are more like 360 degree servos that run off 115v 400hz power usually and are much more complicated to interface with for direct computer control.

 

Great if you can share some pics of the process if possible. i.e. where and how you attach the stepper and sensor and other modifications needed. Haven't yet gutted my VVI so it would save me a lot of tinkering :)

 

Best

Gus

I didn't take pictures of the "dis-assembly" process where I removed the original guts, but do have pictures of my new assembly and how it attaches to the existing frame.

 

One note it be VERY careful when removing the bezel. the glass in this one is actually two wedges shaped pieces of glass. Obviously mine hadn't been opened in many many years and took some force, unfortunately I chipped the lower glass when it game apart as I wasn't expecting the glass to be in two pieces.

 

I'm working on getting a blog on line where I'll have more detail about each piece of work. Should be online by the end of the week.

Posted

Hi mate looking forward to you blog!

I havent started on the VSI yet but I have pulled apart the ADI and managed to fit it with stepper motors. I haven't done glideslope bars yet which I was going to use servos. But have been able to interface the phidgets board yet so can't run any tests.

Are you going to use a stepper motor in the altimeter aswell?

Posted

Gadroc, could you explain, no detail required, just a general overview, how you convert those to step motors?

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Posted

For the ARU-2B, the synchro inputs are 11.8 Vac 400 Hz. The power inputs are 115 Vac 400 Hz.

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Digital-to-Synchro converter for interfacing real aircraft instruments - Thread

 

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Posted

Hehe :)

 

I helped Red getting his to work. That's why I know. It's the same for the Viggens FLI37 ADI.

Digital-to-Synchro converter for interfacing real aircraft instruments - Thread

 

Check out my High Input Count Joystick Controller for cockpit builders, with support for 248 switches, 2 POV hats and 13 analog axes. Over 60 units sold. - B256A13

 

www.novelair.com - The world's most realistic flight simulators of the J35J Draken and the AJS37 Viggen.

Posted

Feel free to ask whenever you want to know.

Digital-to-Synchro converter for interfacing real aircraft instruments - Thread

 

Check out my High Input Count Joystick Controller for cockpit builders, with support for 248 switches, 2 POV hats and 13 analog axes. Over 60 units sold. - B256A13

 

www.novelair.com - The world's most realistic flight simulators of the J35J Draken and the AJS37 Viggen.

Posted

Linden's skinning work inspired me to get off my but and get some done. I was going to use thin aluminum sheet, but his work with 3mm board looked good and is a lot cheaper/easier. I ran down to Lowes and picked up a two 4x8 sheets of 1/8" hardboard but down into 4x4 sections. Here is the results of skinning the forward sections.

 

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Posted

That is some super clean skinning mate! Nicely done!

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Posted

I didn't use washers like you did for cosmetic reasons and pulled through the board a few times. The forward rib is a very tight radius and the center rib is to "shallow" for the curve formed by the other ribs so you can't tighten it down all the way. A little filler before paint and you'll never know.

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