Bucic Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Semi-OT: If you manage to design trim mechanism in your controller, is there a way to disable the in-sim "virtual trim" while preserving the AP awarness of trim press/release? https://akaagar.github.io/briefing-room-for-dcs/ F-5E simpit project https://forum.dcs.world/topic/318106-f-5e-simpit-cockpit-dimensions-and-flight-controls/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molevitch Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 You have to set up the same axis setting for each module. Don't expect that the Ka-.50 behaves the same just because you set it up once for the Huey. >>>>Sticky: corrupt calibration? crazy joystick response? Use this tools Fix it: I got my wiring wrong.... Took me a year to figure it out though! Just didnt trim. SCAN Intel Core i9 10850K "Comet Lake", 32GB DDR4, 10GB NVIDIA RTX 3080, HP Reverb G2. Custom Mi-24 pit with magnetic braked cyclic and collective. See it here: Molevitch Mi-24 Pit. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] www.blacksharkden.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtMan_NL Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 Parts.... OK, some guys told me the fun is starting here.......:D Not pictured is my Cougar and some other parts which I still have to collect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molevitch Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 OK, some guys told me the fun is starting here.......:D [ATTACH]95778[/ATTACH] Not pictured is my Cougar and some other parts which I still have to collect. Ooooooh, YEAH! Have fun, it is a really good result you get. I just took mine to bits again for a tidy up and tweak. Sad thing though, my WH stick is getting no use at all these days.... And I seem to do more stick building than flying too. Looking forward to your finished images. Nice to see your parts all laid out like that. I am not that tidy.... SCAN Intel Core i9 10850K "Comet Lake", 32GB DDR4, 10GB NVIDIA RTX 3080, HP Reverb G2. Custom Mi-24 pit with magnetic braked cyclic and collective. See it here: Molevitch Mi-24 Pit. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] www.blacksharkden.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtMan_NL Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Thanxs. I will try to post some more pictures so that it will be a kind of a manual for non-technicians. Why don´t you put your warthog grip on your new msffb2*2 stick? CU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mue Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Semi-OT: If you manage to design trim mechanism in your controller, is there a way to disable the in-sim "virtual trim" while preserving the AP awarness of trim press/release? Yes: Disable the center trim method AND set in FMOptions.lua HelicopterTrimmerTauInverse=0.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molevitch Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Thanxs. I will try to post some more pictures so that it will be a kind of a manual for non-technicians. Why don´t you put your warthog grip on your new msffb2*2 stick? CU I have a CH Fighterstick grip on it. I want to keep the WH HOTAS for use as an A10 stick if I ever get back into that. Checking my rewire and tidy up later on tonight. Still not sure about the lower FFB working right.... SCAN Intel Core i9 10850K "Comet Lake", 32GB DDR4, 10GB NVIDIA RTX 3080, HP Reverb G2. Custom Mi-24 pit with magnetic braked cyclic and collective. See it here: Molevitch Mi-24 Pit. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] www.blacksharkden.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clyber Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 I have a CH Fighterstick grip on it. I want to keep the WH HOTAS for use as an A10 stick if I ever get back into that. Checking my rewire and tidy up later on tonight. Still not sure about the lower FFB working right.... Why are you not sure of your lower mechanism ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clyber Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Guys, its appears the gears from the mechanisms should be taken of to be able to attach the brackets. Isnt there a way to attach the gears togheter without taking them gears out ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtMan_NL Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Guys, its appears the gears from the mechanisms should be taken of to be able to attach the brackets. Isnt there a way to attach the gears togheter without taking them gears out ? Why should you? It is very easy en 2 minutes work. If you use a disk-puller (in Dutch poellietrekker) you can't do wrong. Don't be afraid to damage the gears they are not glued on the axis from the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clyber Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Thanx, i was affraid indeed to mess with the gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtMan_NL Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Does somebody know where I can find the FFtest utility PeterP is using? Can't find it anymore and I'm afraid it was only in the BS stand alone version? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molevitch Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Why are you not sure of your lower mechanism ? Hi Clyber, Because I cannot trim properly. If I, say, push the nose down and trim, the cyclic jumps back to mirrored position to pull the nose up. If push left and trim, the cyclic jumps to the right. Right ow I am starting to wonder what's gone wrong. So I have unplugged the lower ffb for now to test the top on..... SCAN Intel Core i9 10850K "Comet Lake", 32GB DDR4, 10GB NVIDIA RTX 3080, HP Reverb G2. Custom Mi-24 pit with magnetic braked cyclic and collective. See it here: Molevitch Mi-24 Pit. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] www.blacksharkden.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C6_Hellfrog Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 known problem add the same 3 days ago re testing an old FFB... soluce is to edit FFB properties in DCS (at down of atttributions page) and to check the 'swap axis' option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtMan_NL Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 known problem add the same 3 days ago re testing an old FFB... soluce is to edit FFB properties in DCS (at down of atttributions page) and to check the 'swap axis' option. Are you using 2 msffb at a time? I have almost the same problem as molevitch. I tried everything in the options menu. When I unplug one msffb joystick one after each other en do a restart of dcs (or a restart of the computer) always the same microsoft force feedback ID is coming back. You can see the ID when you hover with your mouse on Microsoft sidewinder. a long number will appear. When I chance the MSFFB always the same ID is appearing. Looks that's flushing joysticks is not working properly in DCS? I'll investigate further :smartass: Can somebody tell me where the FFBtest program is? Did DCS throw it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molevitch Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Are you using 2 msffb at a time? I have almost the same problem as molevitch. I tried everything in the options menu. When I unplug one msffb joystick one after each other en do a restart of dcs (or a restart of the computer) always the same microsoft force feedback ID is coming back. You can see the ID when you hover with your mouse on Microsoft sidewinder. a long number will appear. When I chance the MSFFB always the same ID is appearing. Looks that's flushing joysticks is not working properly in DCS? I'll investigate further :smartass: Can somebody tell me where the FFBtest program is? Did DCS throw it out? I have a spare un modded msffb2 stick. I will see whether this stick has different or same problems. I have looked for fftest.exe and it is no longer in DCS. Found another ff test program FS Test I think. I also find that when I start DCS my modded stick will not centre properly, it is leaning to the right. Outside of DCS it is correct. So something weird there too. Perhaps need to clear all record of the sticks in Dcs first? SCAN Intel Core i9 10850K "Comet Lake", 32GB DDR4, 10GB NVIDIA RTX 3080, HP Reverb G2. Custom Mi-24 pit with magnetic braked cyclic and collective. See it here: Molevitch Mi-24 Pit. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] www.blacksharkden.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobinjaevel Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 I just bought two FFB2 and plan to do the mod myself this summer, but my electronic skills need to go up a bit before that. I have read all the pages but I might have missed some parts. Is it possible to use just one FFB2 with a Warthog stick and counterweight, or does that put to much stress on the single FFB2? Since I'm a rookie at electronics, I plan on taking lots of detailed pictures so that it can help other rookies. But I probably need help to figure out all the parts into making it work with two FFB2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtMan_NL Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 I just bought two FFB2 and plan to do the mod myself this summer, but my electronic skills need to go up a bit before that. I have read all the pages but I might have missed some parts. Is it possible to use just one FFB2 with a Warthog stick and counterweight, or does that put to much stress on the single FFB2? Since I'm a rookie at electronics, I plan on taking lots of detailed pictures so that it can help other rookies. But I probably need help to figure out all the parts into making it work with two FFB2. I have plans to publice a good manual specially for de non-electronics guys. At this moment Molevitch and I have some issues and we are afraid some things are changed in the latest version of DCS world. Please have a little patience and watch this topic carefully. /Arthur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobinjaevel Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Sounds great! Thank you both for your effort! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtMan_NL Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 I'm very short of time at this moment but I just installed the old -stand alone- BS2 for testing purposes. In here I find the FFtest program.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molevitch Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Still working it out.... Hi Gentlemen of the MSFFB2 MOD! Hi Arthur, Yes I am in London, UK. I have tried some stuff tonight. I plugged in a spare MSFFB2 to reduce confusion, and to have a virgin stick(!). It started off with the same trim problem. So then I experimented with the FFB settings and the one that works is: Swap Axis [o], Invert X [ ], Invert Y [ ] . Which is not what I expected.... So now I have plugged back in the Modded Cyclic, with just the top stick usb plugged in, and it works fine with those settings. But without the extra force of the lower stick, it struggles to stay in position when trimmed, the weight of the grip pulls it back as it is offset from centre towards the pilot position. But when I plug in my lower ffb, it seems to now have the motors pulling the wrong way, because it wants to pull the stick as far from centre as is possible, rather than force it to upright. And no variety of FFB settings helped with that. Which means those motors will have to be re-reversed! All counter intuitive and counter to the Guru PeterP's guidance.... So anyways, I am still working on it. Will keep you informed of what I discover. G'night all!:helpsmilie: SCAN Intel Core i9 10850K "Comet Lake", 32GB DDR4, 10GB NVIDIA RTX 3080, HP Reverb G2. Custom Mi-24 pit with magnetic braked cyclic and collective. See it here: Molevitch Mi-24 Pit. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] www.blacksharkden.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtMan_NL Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 (edited) Molevitch, I'm afraid there is nothing wrong with your motor cables but there is something wrong in the wiring of your potentiometers. Still not sure about my wiring but tonight I will try to publish some pictures of the connectors from the potentiometers. I think, I hope it is not that difficult. As Peter said: Just mirror everything on the lower msffb Be absolutely sure to assign X and Y on the upper MSFFB and erase X and Y on the lower MSFFB. Do the swap axis checkmark on both MSFFB. This is what I know so far. But still not sure because the stick stays in the position were I left it behind. It seems my trim button (which is the letter T on the keyboard for testing purpuses) isn't really needed. When I fly with one MSFFB it is absolutely needed to push the trim button otherwise your stick goes back to the center position..... So after all: I will do more testing and I will pull off the gear from the lower motors to test what they are doing. To the other pilots: Please be patient in this phase as I told already: I will try to make a more clear manual with more pictures. The good thing is that everything behave the same as in BS2/DCS world. So my first thought: there is something wrong in DCS 1.2.7. is NOT TRUE. /Arthur Edited April 1, 2014 by ArtMan_NL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molevitch Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Checking back over PeterP's original specification and images, found and highlighted his lower motor s wiring method. Yellow to red, white to black, which is different to his later "from memory" sketch So now I am going to check my wiring again! Both my lower pots have been reversed as described by PeterP. I have also tested my FFB settings with a single stick on all 3 helos, UH-1, KA-50 and Mi-8, and all work with the same settings, Swap Axis[o], Invert X [ ], Invert Y [ ]. The story continues....:huh: SCAN Intel Core i9 10850K "Comet Lake", 32GB DDR4, 10GB NVIDIA RTX 3080, HP Reverb G2. Custom Mi-24 pit with magnetic braked cyclic and collective. See it here: Molevitch Mi-24 Pit. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] www.blacksharkden.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C6_Hellfrog Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 agreed with you Artman what I made : Two FFB2 connected, not linked altogether = (PeterP's mod to attach them not already made) parameters in DCS : swap axes for each in FFB options the first is X and Y as input for cyclic the second has no binding for X and Y (erased) the both work as they should do : I pull the first and the second move the same. Therefore the problems described above may be wiring related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtMan_NL Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 agreed with you Artman what I made : Two FFB2 connected, not linked altogether = (PeterP's mod to attach them not already made) parameters in DCS : swap axes for each in FFB options the first is X and Y as input for cyclic the second has no binding for X and Y (erased) the both work as they should do : I pull the first and the second move the same. Therefore the problems described above may be wiring related. Thanks for confirming :thumbup: How is the trimming behaving itself? If you don´t touch the trim button the stick is going back to the center? With my testing the stick stays where I released it. (When both MSFFB are connected) When I use 1 msffb I have to push the trimmer button, release the stick, release the button. Otherwise it slams back to the center. Very weird problem which I can´t declare :noexpression: Why is a double msffb stick behaving different than one msffb? /Arthur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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