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Posted (edited)
Anybody got any tips for getting the engine started? So far What I'm doing is (as per the tutorial)

 

1. Hold down the primer for one second

2. Hold down the starter

3. Set back to idle cutoff

 

All with no success. At all.

 

Normal procedure to start the engine.

 

Systems enabled

--> Park brakes enabled

--> RAM AIR UNRAMMED and NORMAL (both FWD)

--> Supercharger to AUTO

--> Oil and Carb radiators from CLOSED to OPEN and cover tied.

--> Fuel Mixture --> IDLE CUTOFF

--> Fuel booster to ON

--> Ignition Magnetos BOTH

--> Starter to OFF

--> Battery and Generator Disconnect to UP position

--> Fuel check (behind your seat to left, cockpit floor left and right)

--> Fuel tank set to L.H. Main tank

--> Fuel Shutoff to ON

--> Throttle forward 1 inch (by the third E in decreasE)

--> Propeller control full forward position to INCREASE

Actual start-up:

--> Primer 1 sec for hot engine, 4 seconds to cold engine. --> After battery and gen disconn. enabled.

--> Starter --> Hold as long as possible till propeller rotates and takes over. Don't chicken if the engine won't start under 4 seconds, but let it go after 8 seconds if engine won't start.

--> Once propeller took over --> IMMEDIATELY --> Move Fuel mixture control to -->RUN

 

--> Return the starter to closed position.

--> Idle engine to 1000 rpm.

--> Monitor hydraulic pressure, suction gauge, tachometer, Oil temperature and pressure, fuel pressure, coolant and caburetor radiator temps. Make sure that engine oil pressure reaches 50 PSI upto 30 seconds post engine takeover.

 

--> White for green --> DIVE, DIVE !!!:smartass:

Edited by WildBillKelsoe

AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS

 

Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.

Posted
Normal procedure to start the engine.

 

--> Oil and Carb radiators from CLOSED to OPEN and cover tied.

 

:smartass:

 

It is Oil and Coolant Radiator Air, they should be set to auto not open (the coolant radiator switch is momentary in both the open and closed positions so it is impossible to leave it in the open position) they are both in the off not closed position on cold start.

 

You should close the covers (so they are out of the way of the trim wheel) but I am unsure what you wish to tie them too.

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

Posted
It is Oil and Coolant Radiator Air, they should be set to auto not open (the coolant radiator switch is momentary in both the open and closed positions so it is impossible to leave it in the open position) they are both in the off not closed position on cold start.

 

You should close the covers (so they are out of the way of the trim wheel) but I am unsure what you wish to tie them too.

 

I'm sure they could be wedged by the cover to any position. I tried it. But why does the manual say Oil/Cool rad air be on the Open position? And why do I have to monkey between Open and Closed and hear them doors working? I couldn't hear anything.. Or maybe its the cover that is holding that should be listened to?

AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS

 

Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.

Posted

Lack of hearing anything is probably due to it being incomplete.

 

As for postition, page 82:

1. COOLANT RADIATOR AIR CONTROL SWITCH. Airflow through the dual radiator is controlled by an electric actuator which is mechanically connected to the coolant flap in the rear of the air scoop. Operation of the actuator is controlled by the Coolant Radiator Air Control switch on the Radiator Air Control panel. The switch has four possible positions: AUTOMATIC, OPEN, CLOSE, and OFF.

AUTOMATIC. This is the standard position of the switch and should be set for all normal operations.

 

page 83:

2. OIL RADIATOR AIR CONTROL SWITCH. The Oil Radiator Air Control switch controls the electric actuator of the oil radiator air outlet flap, located midway along the bottom of the air scoop. The switch has four possible positions: AUTOMATIC, OPEN, CLOSE, and OFF.

AUTOMATIC. This is the standard position of the switch and should be set for all normal operations.

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

Posted (edited)
I only have started up here: Missions: P51-Camp1.miz

in full sim, no cheats, manual cold start.

 

Are there other airfields to start at?

 

The startup process is kind of finicky like an old Willys Jeep with a manual choke on a cold morning.

 

Talking to myself again:

 

Yes, there are a few different airfields scenarios. One active map with multiple cons booted me off just as I was getting ready to taxi.

 

The video tutorials are very good. Startup is good. Now I can taxi and follow that Hummer all over the airfield. The landing tute with the Flight Simulator type boxes to go through to final and landing was a perfect 3 point landing. My 1st real good landing with this plane of many attempts.

 

I will repeat though, startup is a bit finicky. I think some of it is because the engine requires 12 turns of the prop and my 1st version I see no ground crew helpers. I don't blame them, who wants to turn a big prop 12 times, especially if it is raining? Sometimes the engine fires right up. Other times its like an old worn out car.

 

Air combat within the tute is pretty good. I did not see any indicator in the cockpit of how many rounds were remaining. I did not set it for infinite ammo. I have not done all the tutorials, yet, but I will.

 

===========================

Only real question I have is how to set the left and right brakes to get incremental braking? I don't want full on all at once.

===========================

I will play with the Axis Tune. I am sure I have seen this done here in one of the other aircraft to DCS.

 

One landing I did, works in the other sim, was a disaster here. As I landed I had full brakes on, left and right, I nosed right on over after some initial tire screeching. I have not seen any fire extinguishers, but I can bail out.

 

I have no problems with stalls at all. It is actually hard for me to even force one.

 

I have version 1 of the beta. My Multiplayer works and I finally saw one squad on, but it was locked.

Edited by ErichVon
Posted
It is Oil and Coolant Radiator Air, they should be set to auto not open (the coolant radiator switch is momentary in both the open and closed positions so it is impossible to leave it in the open position) they are both in the off not closed position on cold start.

 

You should close the covers (so they are out of the way of the trim wheel) but I am unsure what you wish to tie them too.

 

Yes, those two switches (page 124 in the Flight Manual shows them) can be manually flipped up to automatic with using a mouse pointer. At first I tried moving them, I was moving the rudder trim wheel. So I thought they were there just for looks, as not all the stuff in the cockpit actually functions. The mouse pointer needs to be closer to the wall panel to engage the switches.

 

I have seen some discrepancies between the manual and the onboard video tutorial. I use the video sequences.

 

Like some of the other aircraft within the fleet, a lot of those checks may just be candy for looks or something to do for the diehard types.

 

Well I can blackout to tunnel vision with the P-51 pulling too many Gs. So is running out of oxygen above 30,000 feet also going to cause giddiness before passing out if a switch is forgotten to be flipped?

Posted
Anybody got any tips for getting the engine started? So far What I'm doing is (as per the tutorial)

 

1. Hold down the primer for one second

2. Hold down the starter

3. Set back to idle cutoff

 

All with no success. At all.

 

A few days later after experimenting.

 

It always starts, eventually. One second is not long enough.

 

They should give us spray cans of ether starting fluid.

 

Have you seen the switch that adds gasoline to the oil to thin it out in really cold temperatures? LOL!

 

Man, I love these DCS aircraft.

Posted

Personally I find the engine is way too easy to start, way too consistent even in very cold weather.. I'm sure it's still WIP especially considering the work needed on the cooling system etc. I'd love to see/hear more coughing and splatter from those old carby engines. :D

Posted
Lack of hearing anything is probably due to it being incomplete.

 

As for postition, page 82:

 

 

page 83:

 

OK, it is Auto then.. Thanks for the ref.

AWAITING ED NEW DAMAGE MODEL IMPLEMENTATION FOR WW2 BIRDS

 

Fat T is above, thin T is below. Long T is faster, Short T is slower. Open triangle is AWACS, closed triangle is your own sensors. Double dash is friendly, Single dash is enemy. Circle is friendly. Strobe is jammer. Strobe to dash is under 35 km. HDD is 7 times range key. Radar to 160 km, IRST to 10 km. Stay low, but never slow.

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