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Posted

Thanks Stelios. That was some good reading. I had an idea kind of like that but instead of printing all those layers I was just going to use some poster board with cut-outs around the text and symbols to block out the light. I have a UBS cold cathode that has two cold cats and box that allows them to be different colors and can be sound activated. It might be a little dim but I'll give that a test to see how that looks. Thanks again!

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Posted

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Posted

Now imagine my previous post as your panel face plates. You have all your toggle switches, rotaries and dials all mounted now you just have to push a button and now you have a back lit panel that could change it's switch label and color to fit whatever aircraft or sim you want. :)

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Posted

Deaman- I was just saying. Not actually going to use that lighted panel. Just thought is was interesting and thought I would share.

 

Hans- Thanks a bunch!

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Posted (edited)

Looking good OutLAW ! (thanks for the kind words above) Regarding the topic above for fuel panel Pull/Push switches, it's as you say a matter of feel and preference. I used low cost switches (aprox 4$ a piece) found in car supply store. Pulling the knob get the lever/knob to rise about 10 mm, easy to find and verify the position

 

http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Bil-el/Strombrytare/Dragstrombrytare-43024/ (this or one very close to this)

 

Cheers

Gus

Edited by Duckling

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Posted (edited)

Question to those that are using the Groovy Game Gear GPWiz-40. Looks like the ports R1, R2, L1, L2, D1, D2, U1, and U2 are asignd to X rotation, X, Y and Z axis. I have 2 switches that still need to be connected, if I connect these switches to those ports is there a way to have them act as the other ports on the board(on-off)? BTW I'm going to use Helios to do all my assignments. I think it would be nice if they had a check box in the value settings area to select different switch types; Make pulse, Constant on...

Edited by 0utLAW

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Posted

Boards all wired up and wire loomed.

IMG_0024.jpg

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Posted

Hmm, now we're getting somewhere; http://www.all-lighting.com/usb_led_light_chain.htm

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Posted

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Posted

Here is an excellent page on back lit panels. There is all so some great post on VP on home made panels and the problem with dispersing the LED in the panels to get even lighting. look under simulator then panels here

http://www.xflight.de/

On VP just use the search http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?action=forum

No reason to spend the time and money on R&D when it has been done

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

Posted

Deadman, Thanks for the links. Unfortunately, my Google translate isn't working on that page and I can't read German. I was able to look at the panels and was able to spot the reason for his lighting solution not producing even light. I think it's because of his panel construction and the placement of the LEDs. This would no t produce even light because the LEDs ar too close to the surface of the panel. Plus it looks like he would use LEDs with a lens on them which limits the view angle.

pnl_build08.jpg

 

My theoretical solution-

Since my panels will be used on a desktop and modular, I'd be using boxes to house my panels.

 

Layer 1 The housing

I was thinking of spraying the inside of the housing with either white or reflective paint. Then use wide angle LEds placed at the bottom of the box and spaced where needed. Thus, (hopefully) producing even light to the face plate.

 

Layer 2 Switch mounting surface

Using 1/8" clear plexi as the switch mounting plate.

 

Layer 3 Light blocking

A layer of poster board with cut-outs for the text and symbols to block out any unwanted light.

 

Layer 4 Switch labels

Next would be the panel labels printed on white paper and mounted to the surface.

 

I would use RGB LED strips(http://www.oznium.com/rectangle-led-module) and a control unit(http://www.oznium.com/inline-rgb-led-controller) to change the colors for different sims.

 

Hmmm, now if I design it so you could just slip on new panel labels for different sims.

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Posted

Hmmm, now if I design it so you could just slip on new panel labels for different sims.

 

all you need is a multi pin plug for that. Lot of work everytime you want to change a sim though.

Posted

Electrical Panel getting there. Just need to cap it off, put in the supports, drill a hole in the back for wiring and paint!

IMG_00251-1.jpg

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Posted

Thanks again Deadman. Didn't even see that. Woke up and checked my thread half asleep. :)

 

JG can you explain a little more about why I would need a multi pin plug. Not to sure what that is or what it would do.

 

Also, I made a little shelf on the front to add a couple of extra switches for the environmental panel. I guess my underlying goal has been to create panels in order to do a no mouse cold start.

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Posted

Some progress

IMG_0030.jpg

 

IMG_0033.jpg

 

IMG_0034.jpg

 

IMG_0031.jpg

 

IMG_0028.jpg

 

IMG_0032.jpg

 

IMG_0027.jpg

 

My plan for the AHCP

IMG_0029.jpg

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Posted

Laurius,

 

Once everything is wired up correctly, go in the sim option page, select A-10C sim and AHCP in the scrolling menu. Then in the column assigned to your GP WIZ40, assigned the swith position to their corresponding function after having clicked on "ADD". I'm using Helios to do my assigning and I have run through the startup training mission without a problem.

 

Then you will have to tweak the .lua file corresponding to you WIZ. This file is found in WIndows/user/username/config/joystick/GPWIZ40. Edit it with Notepad++. This is necessary to make your switches momentary. If you don't do this, you will have the sequence described by TACNO.My GPWIZ40 .lua was found in C:\Users\"User Name"\Saved Games\DCS\Config\Input\A-10C\Joystick

 

Anyone else using Helios for the assigning of physical switches? Any modifications needed to change the signal to momentary(if possible)? So far I had no problems with the start up training mission as stated above. Except I need some more switches.:hehe:

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Posted

Outlaw,

 

Good job on your panels and enclosures and glad to know you were able to assign you switches and perform the start up training. :thumbup:

 

When I answered you, I didn't know you were going to use Helios.

And sorry for the not so correct path I indicated for finding the .lua file.

 

As you could have guessed, english is not my native language and it takes me some time to write long posts. It's also irritating me a bit because if I take too much time when I search for infos during my writing, most of the time, I find myself logged off when I get back to write. So I took the habit to copy and past what I'm typing.

 

At least, you make me feel like coming back to panel building ! ;)

Cheers

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Posted

Laurius,

 

Thanks for the comment. I know I should have mentioned using Helios in my first post.

 

Don't worry about the Windows path, I was still able to find it and just wanted to post where I found mine just in case someone else couldn't find theirs.

 

Your English is fine by the way. Your points are understood.

 

Glad I've inspired you to build again. I always like to see people being crafty.

 

Good luck on your build and post pics, Thanks again for all your help!

 

0utLAW

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Posted

Outlaw, I've practically finished what I need/ want with my panels and Leo Bodnars X board. Almost all of it for a cold start. With regards to Helios, it's easy to use, drag and drop system. I did find that there were a few issues though with binding the through Helios and in game options, specifically, SAS switches and wing and main tank switches where there was a conflict, so for me I just did not assign them in Helios but still worked perfectly in game. I was also able to use potentiometers for the lighting panels which is cool - again through Helios. What I really want to do now is a comms panel and fit out my AAP panel and a CMSP panel with rotary switches (although I can't find some 45 degree indexing switches cheap yet!)

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Posted
Laurius,

 

Thanks for the comment. I know I should have mentioned using Helios in my first post.

 

Don't worry about the Windows path, I was still able to find it and just wanted to post where I found mine just in case someone else couldn't find theirs.

 

Your English is fine by the way. Your points are understood.

 

Glad I've inspired you to build again. I always like to see people being crafty.

 

Good luck on your build and post pics, Thanks again for all your help!

 

0utLAW

 

Many thanks to you Outlaw,

 

your words are going deep through my heart and my soul. I know I'm far from being an active poster here, but always glad to help in the way I can.

 

I think my next panel will be the fuel one and I won't miss to post my progress here. I will try to make the simplest interfacing that can be done at the moment.

 

By the way, the GP WIZ is easy to handle and you can use several of them (up to 4 if I remember well). Just have to see how to connect them since my mother board USBs are fully used.

 

My dream is to use Dimebug's plans to start building something that looks like a Hog pit. This won't be an easy task for a noob like me. But hey, that's just a matter of time for gathering all the information needed. I should add, that here is the nicest place to do so. I will take my time and will continuously watch and learn from the progresses made by everyone posting.

 

Anyway, to achieve such a goal is time demanding though and many things have changed since I started this adventure at the begining of this year, inspired by so many of you there.

 

Helios will probably be the next step for me, trying to combine it with what I already have.

 

Thanks again to everyone here giving inspiration and infos for the new comers

 

Cheers

 

Laurius

Asus P8Z68 Deluxe, Intel Core i7-2600K (3.4 GHz), Corsair Vengeance 2x4096 Mo DDR3 1866 MHz, SSD 120 Go Vertex 2, EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW ACX 2.0 4Go (04G-P4-2978-KR), TM HOTAS Warthog #03797 (MB replaced), Saitek Combat Pro Rudder, TrackIR 5, TM Cougar MFDs with Lilliput 8" UM 80

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