Post your controller settings for the Huey

[Fuzzy_bear]

My current test settings

 

These are the settings i'm currently using with my Saitek X52 and proflight rudder pedals. Not included the rudder pedals because they have not been altered. So far these settings have offered me the best results in accordance with my low level flying skills.

 

 

 

[HiJack]

All X52 users must remember to disable force feedback in options. It resets itself between version updates. Check it.

[msalama]

Now get rid of the saturation too and you'll be golden :)

 

Just did, and yes, this is clearly the way to go. But I also had to remove ALL spring pressure from both the stick and the pedals - too easy to overcontrol otherwise.

 

Anyway, I'm now flying with my stick at 100% saturation, zero curvature plus a deadzone of 1. The rudders are at 100% saturation, no curvature + 5 deadzone (they've got some slack near the midpoint I have to adjust for). The collective is at 100% saturation, zip curvature and naturally no deadzones of any kind since it's a slider.

 

We-hey! Did I already say I love this chopper to pieces? Sometimes literally too... :D

[fjacobsen]

Just did, and yes, this is clearly the way to go. But I also had to remove ALL spring pressure from both the stick and the pedals - too easy to overcontrol otherwise.

 

Anyway, I'm now flying with my stick at 100% saturation, zero curvature plus a deadzone of 1. The rudders are at 100% saturation, no curvature + 5 deadzone (they've got some slack near the midpoint I have to adjust for). The collective is at 100% saturation, zip curvature and naturally no deadzones of any kind since it's a slider.

 

We-hey! Did I already say I love this chopper to pieces? Sometimes literally too... :D

 

I would get rid of the deadzone too, cause You will definitly very rarely have the stick in neutral positin where it makes sense.

[Scout]

The key to get control of this beast is to delete the curve in the X and Y axes of the stick.

It's a real Aha effect. ;)

 

+1 I figured that out at the end of Day 1

[SchniX]

After trying many curves settings...i went back to the default settings and it's best to me..using the Microsoft SideWinder Force Feedback 2.

[PeterP]

Sorry - just to give you a idea how to tell what settings you are using - so someone else can see if he can reproduce your settings and if it is usable for him - regardless of brand you are using.

 

My settings:

 

Collective :

DirectX Axis resolution 1024

Throw: 35cm /14 inch (measured at middle-finger to axis)

Axis response in DCS : Linear - without dead-zone

 

Cyclic:

Hybrid FFB/hall-sensor with a 1024/2048 DirectX axis resolution for each axis.

(Using 2048 in the Huey)

Throw: 40cm /16 inch (measured at middle-finger to axis)

Axis response in DCS : Linear - without dead-zone

 

Rudder:

DirectX Axis resolution of 1024

Throw:15cm/6 inch (measured from middle of the sole to turning axis) and 16cm/6.3 inch total Forward/backward movement for each foot.

Rudder have gas springs for mechanical resistance and constant force in any position.

Axis response in DCS :

Curve 13 ( to compensate the smaller throw )

no dead-zone

 

I have to say proudly that I was able to do my very first flight in the Huey without crashing and landing safely afterwards. - well, I had already three flights in the co-seat (each 30min and more) in a real conventional helicopter (R22/AS135) - it was a very great helper , so I knew already how to use the anti torque pedals and how 'unstable' it can be.

BTW: FSX and/or Dodo can not really prepare you for DCS:Huey :)

 

Short rule of the thumb for less throw :

 

Cyclic:

If smaller the throw = you start to fly with your wrist instead of your whole arm = less precision and more itchiness. (thta's actually what most of you are doing when using a 'normal' joystick) - you will have to use a curve to counteract it.

 

Solution: add a greater throw and FFB to be closer to the real deal.

Thrustmaster Warthog Extension and/or be creative flying a helicopter without Force trim is like...

 

Rudder:

more close together/less throw = less precision in movement and you are missing the range of the Real one = you need to set a curve to compensate but this will let you also loose precision in the extremes.

 

Solution: add a greater throw and/or be creative - How To: Remove centre detend from Saitek Pro Flight Rudder

 

 

Collective:

see above.

 

Same can be applied to a fixed wing.

 

Small example = on a 35cm stick I can use a range of 2cm movement to do what someone on a 8cm stick has only 0.5cm for.

 

(measured at middle-finger to axis) = 4 times greater precision and the same amount less stress (mentally and physically ;))

 

Does the devil like it to have it more worse than it needs in hell ? - so why you do?! :)

Edited May 10, 2013 by PeterP

[Grounded]

Reset all settings

 

After logging around 8 hours of flight time, 350 landings, 48 deaths, spring removed from HOTAS Warthog i finally clicked "reset" in the axis tune panel for the flightstick :joystick:

Can even land on the Oliver Hazzars Perry now, when its cruising speed is 20 kts.

Wish the view to the side is not tilted by default, but horizontal like in the co-pilot's seat.

I know the LUA. Mod mentioned somewhere to fix the problem.