Devon Custard Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Devond Custard, if you want I got a combined joystick.lua file on my thread. I know that you do not need to manually change the joystick.lua for mapping the CDU but if you want to map toggle switches directly into the game then it is necessary. The combined joystick.lua is a mix of the two Brydling card and a Leo Bodnar card. Cheers Hans Brilliant!!! Thanks H! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Anyone out there got any good tips for a wiring harness? Im looking at that now BEFORE i start building the panel interfaces. Im assuming im going to be running a shedload of cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Anyone out there got any good tips for a wiring harness? Im looking at that now BEFORE i start building the panel interfaces. Im assuming im going to be running a shedload of cable Thus the EOS. ;) Before I started looking at the Arduino, I bought a butt-load of male and female RJ45 jacks and screw connectors that I was planning on using. I did do a couple panels this way. I made my own breakout boards and tied in the diodes directly on the board so I wouldn't have to solder them straight to the switch terminals themselves. Then using a bunch of cable left over from wiring Ethernet in the house and the male jacks, made my own cabling. You wouldn't have to, but I kept with the standard b wiring on the jacks, just in case I repurposed the cables or had to use a bought cable. Worked out well, I just didn't like all the soldering. ;) If you need a few (dozen ;) ) jacks, let me know. :D Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Yeah if eos was complete I'd be happy to adopt it but it's not. If the code was open source I'd adapt it but as it's not its a roll your own project I fear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Burns Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 The only thing I would say which I assume you will already have thought is not to wire directly to your interface, always put in some form of manual connectors which clip in and out (unless its your CDU or UFC with the interface in the enclosure). I never found any good connectors but I only went to the local electronic shop. I tried the connectors for printer cables but couldnt get a breadboard with small enough holes to take the male. My thought were that 24 pins and flat wire would be enough for any 1 panel - I didnt do the maths. Look forward to seeing what you do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hansolo Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) Anyone out there got any good tips for a wiring harness? Im looking at that now BEFORE i start building the panel interfaces. Im assuming im going to be running a shedload of cable DC, I may be misunderstanding but if you a looking for a way to connect the flat cables on Brydling cards to the switches this may be useful: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1800098&postcount=2 The pdf is outdated as I have two B256A13 cards now It this was not the question then please disregard :smilewink: Cheers Hans Edited February 27, 2014 by Hansolo 132nd Virtual Wing homepage & 132nd Virtual Wing YouTube channel My DCS-BIOS sketches & Cockpit Album Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 @Mr Burns - Yup that thought had occurred to me, im building this in the garage at the moment and am anticipating moving house later this year so the sides and front panel (if i get that far) must be modular and separate. Im trialing using 40way IDC PCB headers at present. Thinking that a common hub for each major section i.e. left console, centre console , right console is the way to go, almost certainly going to use a number of old PC PSUs to provide the power that the arduino's and LED's will need. Managed to bolt the CDU keyboard to the baseplate last night, now i just have 50 odd leds and 67 tactile switches to wire up. CAnt believe how much effort to hand solder a single one of these panels takes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 @HMA Oh man youre going to laugh when i post the pics of my CDU, ive done almost exactly the same as you, 40 way PCB header and those exact same terminal blocks. The diodes i placed between the terminal block and the pcb header (easy way to connect the various pin, just bend the legs) Only diff is that im probably going to use 5 4x2 headers with standard cable rather than flat cable with a 40 way header Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 What Hans posted was what I was referring to. He's the one who showed me the DIY breakout board, except with mine I'm simply using inexpensive RJ45 Ethernet connectors instead of the DB connectors. I'm sure I'll be a lot better at all this when I make my cockpit Mark II. ;) Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 hehe i still cant picture what you mean by a DB connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Like the ones here. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DB-15FP/DB-15-FEMALE-CONNECTOR-NO-PINS/1.html They have DB-9, or DB15, etc. For serial cables. Also can be called Sub-D or D-Sub. Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 if youre talking about D-sub connectors like the old style 25 RS232/Parallel ones, shudder. I still remember sodlering those buggers as an engineer MANY years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Yeah, same as on VGA cables or serial cables or the parallel 25 pins like you were thinking. Some do have the standard molex pins that can be crimped onto the wires and go into and out of the connectors with a tool that wraps around the shoulder so it can be slid past the internal stop. But your right. The solder ones can be a pain. It's what I used on my Aux Lighting panel. (The solder 15 pin.) Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boltz Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 I'm just soldering up a batch of DB-15 VGA connectors as I'm typing this and they are not too bad if you just do a couple at a time and keep a steady hand. I'm redoing the wiring but keeping with DB-15 cables for the panels. IMO it's the best wiring solution. A-10C Cockpit Build Thread My YouTube Channel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 IDC 40 way PCB Headers - the 2.54 mm through hole mounting type. Works well with the matrix board im using. Then i use a number of 8 way crimp connectors. 5 of those can fit the 40 way and they are fairly snug/tight fitting. Plus allows me to break out relatively easy. As with everything, find something that works for you and stick with it. Working on the UFC right now as i royally cocked up the wiring for my CDU matrix. 60 odd tactiles down the drain but its only a few quid i suppose. Have replacements on order. Gonna start on the radio panel designs tomorrow, so its research and hunt the measurements time. Anyone got any plans they are willing to share before i completely do a jackanory on this panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Pictures? :D Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) Just for you Mac, photos... Second attempt at UFC, key matrix on prototype board And the enclosure for it... faceplate... this is a first attempt. still trying to get the engraving/paint/cut process perfected. but the faceplate fits at least CDU faceplate, needs sanding and another coat of paint and sealant CDU key matrix Edited March 9, 2014 by Devon Custard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Burns Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Hi DC - looking very nice, I like your key lighting, im building a UFC, torn between the idea of LED tactiles or something else (like yours). My thoughts were, i used the LED tactile, it would prevent light bleeding between the buttons? Do you encounter that? I must post some of my pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Gonna use a LED tactile for the master caution, thats a given. Was in penny saving mode when i chose the tactiles. Compared to version 1 of the CDU im really happy with how version 2 worked out, only took me an afternoon to draw out, place and solder the LEDs and switches. By the evening i had the lighting circuit working and it was time to stop. Paint and seal the faceplate next, Cut and engrave the button faces, then assemble and test! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hansolo Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 @HMA Oh man youre going to laugh when i post the pics of my CDU, ive done almost exactly the same as you, 40 way PCB header and those exact same terminal blocks. The diodes i placed between the terminal block and the pcb header (easy way to connect the various pin, just bend the legs) Only diff is that im probably going to use 5 4x2 headers with standard cable rather than flat cable with a 40 way header :lol: I see what you mean. It looks great DC :thumbup: I really like how you have done it :smilewink: Are the large resistors on the CDU for the LED's? Looking forward for more pictures Cheers Hans 132nd Virtual Wing homepage & 132nd Virtual Wing YouTube channel My DCS-BIOS sketches & Cockpit Album Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Yup, when i ordered the resistors from Radio Shack it was impossible to tell the scale of the photo and so i ordered the monsters you see there...... I was tempted to post a photo of all the attempts at cutting the acrylics fascias but then pitwife threw away my "scrap pile" as it was untidy..... Every time i try something i get just a little more experience and things get a little smoother and faster. This time i have a single pair of leads for the LEDs instead of 20 odd. The back of the board looks tidier and wiring the terminal blocks no longer requires double jointed fingers. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hey nice! But, aren't you supposed to be off in a honeymoon? Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 2 weeks time ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFevre Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Very nice! Do as much as you can while you can. ;) Mr. Burns, I've tried several different brands of the lit tactile buttons. I have yet to find any that are green. Any, (that I've tried,) all seem to come out as a yellow/green, more yellow than green. If you find any that are real green, please let us know! Also DC, try shooting all your painted stuff with a matte finish clear coat. Deadman clued me to that one. Once I did that, everything took on a well-finished professional look to it. Plus it protects it from small scratches and the like. Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink: My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2 My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS." Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Custard Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 After marriage & honeymoon, a fair amount of wrestling with the laser and learning how NOT to engrave and paint a panel i got my first panel completed. Oddly enough it was the caution panel and it went surprisingly smoothly. I have to recut the top piece of acrlic again as the final coat of sealant managed to melt the undercoat. I was proper pissed at that. I also never want to have to solder that many leds in clost proximity again. Matrix be damned. :) Struggling to get time on the pit at the mo, as the new wife has decided we are selling our house. sigh..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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