bnepethomas

I'm not sure but going to find out I guess :), I would have preferred a higher resolution but given this is a bit of a brave new world for this black duck, thought I'd start with a small lower cost version, and if it works scale up as needed. Re it just being an ordinary display, with bits removed I'm not sure, that would make some sense, and if that is the case I've got a couple of panels in the pit room that may yet make the ultimate sacrifice! I do have some reflect glass and a first surface mirror on stand-by as well, that involves moving a few things around behind the front dash, so Plan-C is ready to go if needed. cheers Peter

Thanks Deadman I'll check that out. cheers Peter

Ahh good question Deadman I was think more about the dot-of-pain being in the right place - the main screen is a wall that is around 5 feet from where the hud would be sitting. for giggles I've just ordered one to see the experience would be like. Cheers Peter

Hi Guys I'm thinking about taking two approaches to the hud. Given I fly with with different zoom settings, zoomed out while getting from A-to-B, and zoomed in while trying to find something to blow-up, it means a perfectly collimated hud isn't going to be perfect all the time. So my thoughts are using the hud onto the main screen when perfect alignment is needed, but when getting from A-to-B using the hud on the transparent LCD (for display flight data). No know it ain't perfect but hopefully gives me something a little better than what I've got at the moment. cheers Peter

Hi Guys Any explored using a transparent LCD Panel for a Hud? I see they now come in 10.2 inch versions search ebay for 10.2inch Transparent LCD screen TFT-LCD panel digital advertising display chers Peter

The other thing it might be, are you sure the encoder is in the range of ports enable for encoder, I've seen the 'stuck' button thing when an encoder is connected to any ordinary port, also is that the only device you have connected, if not are you using diodes? cheers Peter

Nice work - looking forward to seeing the A10 Hud. cheers Peter

Agree ebay have made the world a better place for buying electronic components. Just a little thing - on the pricing front you are comparing OLED to LCD. I started with LCDs for this project, short story they need to be back-lit, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but when you compare the contrast ratio of a OLED to LCD, its hard to go back to LCD. cheers Peter

Good find - got a pointer to the ebay ones? the one thing I liked about that specific OLED was the minimal space needed about the top and bottom, having a second supply option is a good thing. cheers Peter

Very good question John - one thing about the 737 is it is 'just' two panels front and overhead..... how hard can that be? :)

Thanks - The displays are white OLED using an I2C bus. Scored them from wide.hk. Just added acrylic filter to get different colours. http://www.wide.hk/products.php?product=-IIC-{47}-I2C-1602-OLED-Module-Display-%252d-For-Arduino-{47}-PIC-{47}-AVR-{47}-ARM

Hi guys, quality of this video isn't as good as the last one, but here it is, for the moment pit complete. The mandatory start-up video. Time to hit the 737 Gyu0fAMZJTc

I'm guessing it was around 4 feet, didn't really notice it until everything was cabled up, been rock solid since adding them cheers Peter

Here you go guys: First the Arduino adapter I've got two in the A10, one for the port side, the pull-up resistors are needed when the cables start getting a little long: and one for the CDU For the port side this goes to a distribution card That then goes to individual modules, which can get a little busy, I've put a connector on every switch, just makes troubleshooting a whole lot easier than soldered connections: The radios are very busy: and the Environmental Panel, which is also a little busy:

Looking Nice Deadman

I'm using a combination, a little PCB from the Arduino to a Veroboard distribution board, and then a small proto board at the back of each panel (which has the diodes on it). I've just ordered another set of PCBs for the next project, if there is nothing stupidly wrong with the gerber and drill files I'll gladly give them to whoever would like them. Basically you can get 10 of them made for $35. Cheers Peter

Thanks guys, from the I couldn't help myself department, decided a gray CDU wasn't good enough. Ripped out the Open Cockpits CDU, disassembled, painted black, and while I was at it, simplified the interface. Was previous using the SOIC interface, which meant another piece of code to the sim. Now running OverPro's code on a Arduino so it is just another Joystick interface, all rocking!

Hi guys Thanks again for the pointers, the good news the the VHF and UHF radios nicely support the is_on() method. ILS and TACAN don't, so just built a call that checks the battery and generator switch positions along with the individual power switch settings for TACAN and ILS, job done. Tripped over something new that I'm interested to see how others have solved. The VHF Preset thumbwheel. I'm using rotary encoders, and they work nicely on pretty much everything (including the UHF Preset), but on the VHF preset they seem to 'stick'. If I send a 'click' the thumbwheel often just keeps turning until it hits it limits, anyone else been there done that? Whilst the rest of the pit is joystick inputs, I'm happy to add Ians DCS-BIOS if that solves the problem, just want to see if its been done elsewhere. Oh - and on the lack of attention to detail thing (on my part that is :)), when building out the UHF panel remember the left most frequency dial is not a rotary encoder but a X-Position (can't remember if its 4 or 5) switch. Only discovered it when I went to map the darn thing after everything was installed... DOH!

ahh thats a real bummer, do you have a older PC you can you the gauges off? One good thing about the Simmeters stack is it is network friendly.

Re the ADI, I cheated and went with Simmeters, aside from a speed bump with DCS not exporting anything useful for the RWR, I've been very happy with them. Hopefully they'll be fully back in action one day. The contrast on the Simmeters displays is amazing, would love to score a small OLED display with HDMI or VGA input to replace the LC screen I'm currently using fro the RWR cheers Peter

Not so cool - I know they have been busy behind the scenes, I haven't tried it myself (still building with the original version), but have you checked out the new code? https://simmeters.com/gitlist/pub/Inerthya/tree/master/bin/ Cheers Peter

Thanks - I'm with you there will be always something to do on the pit, but what helps get some focus is having a half completed 737 to finish.. and then there is the F18 on the horizon :)

HI Guys Getting very very close to completion, just playing with flood lighting using strip leds. cheers Peter

HI Guys From the left of field, I've used 3mm mdf on the F16, and as boltz called out, sometimes it can be hard work. I'm being a little more lazy with the A10 and using Coreflute, reasonably rigid and light as: http://www.bunnings.com.au/2440-x-1220-x-2-2mm-black-corflute_p0390164 Cheers Peter

nice work on these panels