bnepethomas

Thanks for sharing these Deadman, fantastic contribution to the community.

While Ken is digging around looking for the code :) - here's another trick you can do: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2391881&postcount=204 Put simply instead of using the SOIC interface, use OverPros joystick code on an Arduino and make it look like a bunch of buttons, much simpler. Cheers Peter

Thanks for sharing - very cool. cheers Peter

Cool - they certainly are a nice piece of engineering.

A great idea John!

yes please - export of instruments would be a very good thing

Hi John Its more about at the front of the indicator,so the text only appears when it is backlit, something you have on the dash of the car. cheers PT

Hi Guys Speaking of indicators, what materials are people using for indicator filters? ta Peter

Be a little careful with the laser - some materials put out nasty fumes that can be bad for both the laser and you Cheers Peter

Damm - they look great - nice work!

thanks for the pointers guys. cheers Peter

great work John, did you make the case as well or is it an of the shelf purchase? cheers Peter

Really nice work John (as always) - where did you score those osram's from? cheers Peter

Happy days, downloaded ok this morning.

Hi Ky Did you manage to get the stl file, I've just tried and got the dreaded file not found. cheers Peter

Nice work Mike - there may yet be life for those instruments I have in 'that' box that lives under the desk after all :)

Hi Lars I use 5mm wide angle flat-tops, they work a treat. Cheers Peter

Hi Mike Part of the reason for my ask about PIC is I haven't had the greatest run with PIC programmers. Perhaps I'm jinxed or holding my tongue the wrong way, after trying some cheap ones went for the PICKit3 and still managed to kazump myself. Hopefully the ATMegas are easier to work with. Really looking forward to seeing your project in action, I'm have some synchro instruments gathering dust :) cheers Peter

Hi Mike I'm sure this is a dumb question, but I have to ask :), if you've got the arduino ticking away, whats the reason for keeping a PIC in the mix? Cheers Peter

Hi Neal I've bounced around a few options and ended up using Ethernet for my pit. Whilst it means you have to understand a little about IP addressing it means the all of the output is completely isolated from the PC. It costs a little bit more with having an Ethernet shield for each Arduino, but you don't need that many in the bit. Another benefit is the output electronics is completely independent of any updates to the PC. On powering the Arduinos, I still power them off USB hubs, I've found some shields haven't behaved as well as they could have using external power supplies. I don't connect the USB hubs to the PC, primarily so the sketches don't get unexpected resets doing a restart of the PC. Cheers Peter

Hi Guys I've seen the Vid motors start missing steps if you try and move them too fast. They aren't engineered to move things quickly. cheers Peter

nice - thanks for the pointer

:) gotta to have the occasional science experiment, I've also got my concerns but nothing ventured nothing gained.

I'm not sure but going to find out I guess :), I would have preferred a higher resolution but given this is a bit of a brave new world for this black duck, thought I'd start with a small lower cost version, and if it works scale up as needed. Re it just being an ordinary display, with bits removed I'm not sure, that would make some sense, and if that is the case I've got a couple of panels in the pit room that may yet make the ultimate sacrifice! I do have some reflect glass and a first surface mirror on stand-by as well, that involves moving a few things around behind the front dash, so Plan-C is ready to go if needed. cheers Peter

Thanks Deadman I'll check that out. cheers Peter