BaronVonVaderham

Hey guys, I’m looking into making some mounts to install on my leather ikea desk chair. (I love the monster tech solution but it’s rather pricey). i was planning to use 2020 aluminium profiles as the main construction material. What I am still trying to find, is some mounting plates, like you see on hotas desk mounts. I can kind of figure out the construction, except for those mounting plates. I target not buy fresh mounts that use 2020 aluminium profiles as it is a bit of wast, plus they are not cheap either compared to the price of aluminium profiles. In addition, I’d like to have since stuck disconnects for such aluminium profiles, because I plan to have a Center stick position, but I want to remove that quickly for when I use my chair for work. A swivel mechanism would also be acceptable. any suggestions where I may find that stuff in Germany?

Hey guys i was curious what people from Europe/Germany use as payment method when paying with winwing’s shop. i tried their PayPal option, but it asks to create a PayPal account. I have very bad experiences with PayPal so I refuse to use a PayPal account anymore, but I’m ok with using a credit card payment through PayPal, like some vendors offer. I’m not used to the other options that I saw (sepa and Giropay). I thought SEPA was direct debit, which makes me a little uncomfortable as it’s but something I can control fully (forgive my paranoia). I’m unfamiliar with Giropay, soo I’m curious what the safest payment method is for Europeans. any comments/suggestions?

Simple enough: die anyone know of a source for f-16 cockpit panels, similar to the winwing f-18 setup? Preferably available to Europe (ie reasonable international shipping and/or directly for sale within Europe). I’d go the diy route, were it not fit the time demanding toddler and lack of workshop.

Hey guys, has anyone tried the cubesim panels? https://cubesim.com.cn they offer a panel setup comparable to the one from winwing. I was curious if anyone has tried the cubesim before. It’s more expensive than the winwing version (which may have stopped people for trying it).

Yeah, I figured the same to be honest. actually, with option 1 I did not mean modding the grip, but configuring the controls in dcs. I wouldn’t use it as a dual engine control, but just control them simultaneously (ie no independent engine control.). maybe there’s a single engine control option (meaning one control for both engines), I which case it’d be easy to set up. in any case, I’ll start with the f16 version first, after that I’ll see what I’ll do.

Interesting thread! i noticed someone staying 200-something hours in 5 years, and I wanted to add something to that: 1) to become proficient you need a significant amount of hours of experience flying your choice of aircraft. PPL takes 50 hours (depending where in the world), CPL adds another 100, then 20 for multi engine rating, and then another I don’t know how many for jet rating. Then there is acrobatics rating to add to the equation. A fighter pilot learns that in a year, maybe 2. ATPL, with some 500 hours, takes 2-4 years depending on the programme you attend. Experienced pilots have thousands of hours. soo don’t expect Richthofen skills within a month. 2) you need to keep practicing. Soo flying one it two hours per month is not getting you the muscle memory. You need to spend a significant amount of time in practicing a skill, and keeping up that skill. You also need to spend a large amount of time in actual studying. It’s not all cockpit time, but also classroom time so to speak. I’ve spend 30+ years doing flight sims. As well as a few dozen hours real flight. For single piston engine airplanes I probably do it like a walk in the park. But for DCS I’m an absolute beginner myself and committed to having to go through those steps. (At the wrath of my wife might I add)

Hey guys, I’m planning on getting an Orion 2 hotas, specifically the Orion2 HOTAS F-16 Viper（SPRING&SHAKE). I believe the throttle assembly is pretty much the same as the f18 version, except for the f16 throttle handle and guide vs split throttle assembly. It looks to me like the f16 version is using the same two throttle levers, but binds them together. In most cases (normal operations) you don’t need separate throttle control on dual engine configuration, soo I was hoping to use the same throttle assembly for dual engine aircraft as well. Did anyone know if this is possible and how to set that up? I can imagine that assigning throttle levers by moving them is tricky, as you’ll get a race condition between the two levers. But maybe there’sa Manuel way of assigning the levers? Alternatively (but I hope not), I could change over between the f16 handle or an f18 throttle handle. Worst comes to worst I would need two different assemblies which I hope to avoid.

Did another dogfight training with the a4e. Looks like it behaves like you described, I.e. turning at 250kts is slow and close to stall (buffering of the aircraft). I never managed to get a clean shot circling around each other at low speed. Not sure how to deal with such scenarios without turning my back to an enemy gun. i also tried the bronco again, and this time it went fine. It was indeed the prop lever. The instructions do call it it, but not all areas in the cockpit are clickable soo I could not move the levers. I mapped it to a spare lever and managed to operate it. the pedals are still unusable for differential braking.

neither the google drive link nor the dcs link seem to work. Is this still being provided?

I tried looking for the prop lever, but couldn’t find it. And if it’s hidden behind or under the throttle that means moving the throttle to idle to advance the prop lever. in any case, I’ll make some recordings today of some flights. I suspect the tf51 is behaving as you described. But the others, I’d say there must be something wrong with the settings somehow. throttle moves ask the way forward in my cockpits soo I assume the actual thrust is set accordingly.

This is fair enough. Also, I need to learn to fit these fighter jets. Coming from fax a long time ago, and X-Plane more recently, I’m used to easy to stunt aircraft. I can barely take off or land with the free aircraft that come with dcs, soo some proper learning before immersion is probably a good idea

Just tried the bronco training. First lesson (start taxi and take off). I found the following problems: 1) toe brakes using rudder axis don’t work. I assigned the left add right brakes the same as my other aircraft, but it only wants to turn hard right when taxiing. It doesn’t behave like this with the key board. I did notice that key strokes are incremental (meaning I need an equal opposite brake key stroke to level out the braking. ). 2) can’t click the canopy to close it. The instructions don’t actually call it to close it either. 3) accelerates fine on the runway, but when pulling the toe at 100kts, it climbs brush and then is stuck. Meaning, I set nose trim to 10 degrees, but IT won’t climb out. If ahah won’t speed up any further. Mind you, I retracted the flaps and gear at about 110 or 120 kts 4) tried to turn back to the field, but immediately started buffering as if doing a stall turn. I pulled a little harder and it did stall into the ground. i don’t think these are normal behaviour for a twin turbo prop. Are these known issues?

so I tried again with the A4e, and I simply cannot turn. the turn rates are insanely slow compared to civil aircraft. it takes about 5 minutes or more to go through a complete turn. I don't believe an a4e has wing stall at 250kts and a turn rate of 5 minutes. Tried with the su25, same story. tried with the bronco: worse. Mind you, in the training tutorial I can’t get it to speed up beyond 120kts, and it won’t climb. what am I doing wrong?

Yeah, I saw something about using curves for moderating extreme stick positions. I might do that. Currently I’m still flying with a Saitek yoke and pedal set, but I’m about to pull the trigger on a winwing setup with extension rod, which should help moderate stick deflection.

Hey guys, Being new to DCS there’s probably a lot for me to learn. I’m wondering about the general behaviour of the free aircraft. (Tf51, su25, A4e). I noticed that when flying, I have very big turning circles. I can’t pull the stick very hard, or even medium hard. If I do I get high speed stall behaviour. Interestingly this behavior is at all speeds, soo not just slow or very high speed. And not very high, but typically around 3000ft or so. i would have thought that I would be able to make more aggressive manoeuvres. Am I misunderstanding the physics here, and should I learn to fly less aggressively, or is there a realism setting that is set to “unrealistic stall behaviour”?

Thanks. I let it run all night and got it. Actually I think the slow connection is because 1Gbps Internet in Germany is worse than smoke signals to mars.

Hey guys, i am looking for a jet helmet I can use to make the dcs experience a bit more immersed. I’m hoping to get a jet helmet that includes comms that allow me to use voice comms when doing multiplayer sessions. can anyone tell me where in Germany I can find one for a reasonable price? Alternatively, I got this jet helmet prop from China. Maybe someone can tell me how to modify it to fit comm some phones and mic?

Hey guys, peach time I try to log onto the main website after logging off, the website refuses to accept my password. I’ve not had this problem with the forum, but the main website refuses to accept my password. I wanted to keep my website logon the same as my forum logon (same user name, same email, same password), as this avoids my devices from becoming confused about what logon to use. is there an algorithm that throws out my password after a successful password reset?

Thanks guys, without the info I mentioned (pin allocation, port power ratings), and with manuals not reflecting the latest packaging and gpu version, I was somewhat concerned. I mean the 600w label on the cable was a giveaway, but who knows right?

Hi guys, I wanted to check if my gpu is getting enough power. Unfortunately the manuals of both my gpu and psu are too generic for an answer. I have an ASUS tug gaming rtx 4080 gpu, and a thermaltake tough power gf3 1200W psu. The cables that came with the psu are different than the manual quotes. It included an 8+4 cable for pcie 5.0 GPU’s (mine is pcie 4.0). My graphics card came with an 8+4 to 3x 8 power cable, again not in line with the manual which indicated 2x 8 power cables and connections. The 8+4 power cable from the psu is labeled 600W, and might imply it provides all the power my gpu needs. However, the psu data does not clarify the connector characteristics (power rating, pin definition, or it’s intended use). Soo, my question is: does my psu provide sufficient power to my gpu when running at max performance? I’ve seen discussions where the use of splitters to reduce the number of power outlets used on the psu was I’ll advices as the psu could be in the situation that it cannot provide the required power, which could result in instability or psu overload.

I like your arm support solution. Very practical! As for the rake, I unde4rstood (maybe incorrectly) that you can use thrustmaster grips on WW bases, in which case I'm sure there is an adapter that can be used to give you that rake. Not being able to judge one from another, I think I'll get the regular one. If I get an opportunity to try FSSB, then maybe I will change the base.

Just wanted to give everyone some feedback on my progress, and express my thanks for suggestions made by all I managed to cramp my components in the case I had. I'm still working on getting new fans installed. Just to clarify my configration: - 1 Coolermaster 140mm argb fan in the back - 3 chinese brand argn reverse fans on the front for the aio (I would have preferred thermalright fans, or some other reputable brand, like coolermaster, but alas, none are available on the market. They exist, just not available). - 3 Arctic argb fans that came with the aio on the inside of the case (mostly for aesthetic reasons, I don't really need push AND pull fans for the aio - 3 arctic regular fans on the side - 1 coolermaster argb reverse fan on the bottom. I might get a second one if ne becomes available FYI, I use the regular arctic fans and the reverse coolermaster to build up pressure inside the case. Not sure this will work well because teh side mounted arctics don't have much gaps to blow through, and they are close to the aio that sucks the air out immediately. So if things still get hot, I might have to change cases after all... So far, without playing DCS yet, the cpu stays at a cool 30-34 degrees C...

Hi all, trying to download, but not super fast (10Mb/s). My problem is that at some stage it takes too long and my computer reduces download to zero. I restarted the entire process twice now, but still haven’t been able to complete the full download. is therea way to chop up the download, and do things in stages?

Only personal preference wrt aesthetics.

Hey guys, I’m stuck with my pc build. I mistakenly got the thermaltake view 37 argb, and it’s not really working out. The biggest constraints I have are the arctic liquid freezer Ii 360 argb aio, and the rtx 4080 gpu. I thought the case was big enough, but the aio tubes are cramped and hamper gpu installation. I can only mount the gpu vertically (horizontally doesn’t fit because of the aio, and the aio can only be placed next to the mobo, not at the front as the tubes are too short for that). The case comes with a bracket but the card is soo thick it pushed against the acrylic window and thus doesn’t get any air circulation. I’m also disappointed with the case for other reasons, for example, the argb fans included cannot be speed controlled. There’sa couple of options left: 1) a bracket that uses all pcie slots for vertical mounting, but I’m not guaranteed that will fix the gpu fit. 2) Mount the radiator in front of the mobo panel and the fans behind the mobo panel. I won’t be able to see any of the rgb, but the gpu might fit the pcie slot. I will have to orient the tube ports on the radiator up, which will cause gorgelling over time. 3) Mount the fans in front of the mobo panel and the radiator on the back. Probably the tubes won’t reach far enough when I install the gpu in the pcie slot. 4) a new case: this one is hard as well as I want a nice looking case, good airflow, and top mounting for the aio I have. and not 500€. i considered the ah t600, but I don’t think my aio will fit. I like the fractal north (I saw a build that fits in a 4090 with my aio), but thermals will be poor. The coolermaster c600 series is nice but way too expensive. I dont like Lian li. The nzxt h7 flow might be an option, but not sure my aio fits on top. sooo, bit at a loss…