Dropship Pilot

Mine arrived save and sound! :D Thanks a lot, Stefan

I really like what I see! :thumbup: From my experience silicone shoudn't be a "smelly" problem. However, resin is a totally differend matter.... There are some nice youtube tutorials on casting that have usefull remarks (regarding the influence of water for example) like this one: If you are going to cast more complex shapes than just knobs, then I found the following tutorial over at the replica props forum from someone who does this quite a lot with amazing results: Cheers, Stefan

Then it's sold. :D Cheers, Stefan

I'd take it, but I'm in Europe.... Cheers, Stefan

I'll take it. Cheers, Stefan

The knobs I use most are the VHF radio knobs followed by the UHF, HSI and ILS. It may sound picky but 1/4 inch is actually 6.35mm. It doesn't sound much but a 6mm shaft will not properly fit (especially as they are usually 5.9mm) in a 6.35mm hole. Anything smaller than 6mm would be fine for me. Cheers, Stefan

Hi Deadman, I think your proposal to cast the knobs as close to the correct color as possible (clear for the back lit knobs) is perfect. In regard to the production sequence I think it would be nice to start with the knobs that are used most of the time. Shaft holes and set screw holes would be nice but that's something I could do myself. So it simply depends on how much these will add to the cost. For the shaft holes I'd vote for 5.8mm or 6mm diameter, as it's quite easy to enlarge the diameter. Trying to decrease the diameter can quite awkward. :smilewink: Cheers, Stefan

BTW: The EATON switch catalog can be downloaded here: http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/ProductsbyCategory/Aerospace/LiteratureLibrary/index.htm?sfield=&sorder=&pagenum=2&litlibtarget=979679288143 Cheers, Stefan

I agree with Gadroc. A small nicely centered pre-drilled hole would be nice. So everyone can adjust the knobs to the parts at hand (even those metric people here in Europe :smilewink:). Having the knobs with the lettering lasered would be really nice too, as that's something not everyone can do at home. Cheers, Stefan PS: Still in for the full set.

Isn't that 2.25" (57mm) panel like the one pictured here... http://www.rockwellcollins.com/sitecore/content/Data/Products/Navigation_and_Guidance/Direction-Finding_Equipment/TCN-550_TACAN_Beacon_System.aspx ... while the A-10 uses the 3" (76mm) panel: http://www.rockwellcollins.com/sitecore/content/Data/Products/Navigation_and_Guidance/Direction-Finding_Equipment/TCN-500_Advanced_Digital_TACAN_Receiver-Transmitter.aspx Notice the difference in space between the knobs and the lower edge of the panel. Cheers, Stefan

I might be wrong, but the TACAN looks smaller than the version used in the A-10. Cheers, Stefan

Deadman, I'm looking forward to each one of you post! Without those infos I'd already spend a lot of money on the wrong switches. Especially with the expensive locking switches there's a lot that can go wrong without accurate intel. So thanks a lot! Stefan PS: The MS to Honeywell crossreference list is quite helpful: http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/prodinfo/environment/catalog/405.pdf

You learn something new every day. Remind me to never argue with you again! :surrender: :smilewink: However, the lettering of the NVIS panel looks somewhat like a rush job to me. The dot/ring icons made more sense than the new ones and so does the A/A T/R compared to the A/AT/R. Nevertheless, that's the way it is... Cheers, Stefan PS: Files are updated.

First I start a thread about the crosses and right after that I forget it on a drawing! :doh: Well spotted Deadman! :thumbup: As for the dot - that one is actually missing for a reason (at least I think so): Unlike the sim, the first digit (from the right) is controlled by the outer ring. Thus the circle for the first digit. The second digit is controlled by the inner knob and thus there is only a dot representig the knob and not a circle at the end of the line. I haven't seen any other version (but that doesn't mean that there aren't). The reason why I posted the non-NVIS version first was that it gives you a hint where to place the lights for the backlighting. In the other version I simply erased the holes (which would be easy for anyone to do). Cheers, Stefan

NVIS-Version: http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/140212/3874537.jpeg :music_whistling: The main reason I bought it was to get the mechanical part of the frequency selector. That'd be too much of a hassle to replicate. I guess apart from the edge lights, there won't be any difference to the panel. However, there is no such thing as too much reference material, right? :smilewink: Stefan

Update #2: Just in case someone might be interested - here is a 300dpi scan of an original (and slightly damaged :() TACAN panel: Front: http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/130212/4803486.jpeg Back: http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/130212/4998636.jpeg The panel is dated 1988 and has 5 red lights for backlighting. Drawing based on above images: http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/140212/7947524.jpeg Modified drawing for NVIS version: http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/140212/3874537.jpeg Cheers, Stefan

Thanks everyone! That are some interesting things you pointed out! :thumbup: Cheers, Stefan

Right side would be nice. Cheers, Stefan

The only thing I can think of is that the electrical connector requires some force to disconnect. So it would be wise to grip the faceplate close to the connector when pulling it off. Otherwise the faceplate might crack the panel due to bending forces. However, this is just speculation. Stefan

Looks like I need the Modern Hog Guide! So if I got all correct then the IFF ANT switch stayed the same through all versions with an E-Type locking switch (MS24659-21E) and the upper/both/lower positions. The middle switch changed from UHF ANT upper/both/lower to UHF ANT upper/lower to SAT ANT high/low. The right switch changed from RADIO BEACON single/off/double to EGI HQ TOD enable /disable to EGI HQ TOD arc-210/off/arc164. The positions in the sim are probably a mixup of the single/double and the enable/disable. Both, double and disable end with "ble" and if the switch is to the rear that might be all you can read. (Or is there a photo/dokument with single/disable?) Cheers, Stefan

No, I'm refering to the rightmost switch on the antenna panel. However, there seems to be some variation to this switch/panel: - The pictures of Rick Chin (A-10A) show this switch just labeled System with no additional label in the forward position, the center position marked as OFF and the backward position labeld DEACTIVATED . - In the pictures of Keith LaFaille (A-10C) the switch is marked with EGI HQ TOD and you can select between ARC-210, OFF and ARC-164. - The sim (1.1.0.9 - I know I should upgrade....:music_whistling:)has it labeled EGI HQ TOD too with SINGLE in the forward and DISABLE in the rear position.

http://www.everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL+SPECS+%28MIL-DTL%29/MIL-DTL-7788G_26179/ :music_whistling:

Ah, another mystery solved! Thanks a lot! :thumbup: Stefan

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230738458081?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 :megalol: Saw it too! That price is just ridiculus.