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Dropship Pilot

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Everything posted by Dropship Pilot

  1. Great stuff! :thumbup: Thanks a lot! Cheers, DSP
  2. I'd suggest to use the LB084S02 8.4" display - it is high enough to cover the whole display area and narrow enough to be covered by the display frame. Cheers, DSP
  3. The button matrix won't work (properly) if there's a ground connection. To make the button work you need to cut the ground connection to the button on the PCB (i.g. the button is isolated from the pots). Then you can connect it to the row and column pins (don't forget the diode) and everything should work as expected. DSP
  4. Actually, the button should have no ground connection - it should be connected to a row and via the diode to a colum pin (see post#1 for those pins). Cheers, DSP
  5. Have a look at post #8. You need to include the diode(s) in the correct orientation to prevent the ghosting effect. DSP
  6. Ah, good to know! :thumbup: Thanks a lot, Stefan
  7. Hi Ian. What would happen if you accidentally plug one of these cables into the network connector of your PC? Wouldn't it be better to use Pins 4,5,7,8 for power as these are not used on a standard network connection. So there should be less potential to damage anything. However, please bear in mind that I'm no expert in this matter. Cheers, Stefan
  8. There's another small detail with those switches: To engaging a magnetic held switch you need the same force as with an ordinary switch. However disengaging it (while being magnetically held) requires quite a bit more force (I'd say 1.5-2 times the normal switching force). Cheers, DSP
  9. Hi Lars, I noticed that your antenna selection panel says 2 x "IFF ANT". There seems to be a lot of variation to this panel but if you are working from Keith's pictures it should say "SAT ANT" and "HIGH", "LOW" (probably a gain setting). Great work by the way. Those panels look great! Cheers, Stefan
  10. Hi Mike, your stuff looks great! I'm looking forward to see more of it. It's probably old news to you, but there's a synchro interface project on the viperpits forum as well: http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php/topic,9661.0.html Cheers, DSP
  11. Hi draken, great job! I'm looking forward to see more of your pit. :thumbup: While looking at the stencil sheet I noticed two spelling issues: - Ausfahren des Fahrwerks - Betätigung nur wenn Maschine "FREI" Cheers, Stefan
  12. F-86 Ejection seat: http://www.ebay.com/itm/F-86-Ejection-Seat-/131326416507?pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item1e93aa167b&vxp=mtr and a throttle grip that looks right: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Convair-F-102-Delta-Dagger-Cockpit-Throttle-Control-Quadrant/261633854019?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131230161411%26meid%3D23eada73f0634e3f803ed4534eba8d75%26pid%3D100012%26prg%3D20131230161411%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D261622285797 Cheers, DSP
  13. Hans, the label of the Sensotec transducer says: Model A281-02 RANGE 0 TO 1000 LBS EXC +/- 12 VDC OUTPUT +/-10 VDC So, I'm quite sure these are force sensors to determine the forces acting on the stick. Similar models are still in production (see page 79 or LO-5 of this document: http://www.fedtec.com.tw/files/sensortec2006_catalog.pdf ). 1000 lbs seems overkill at first sight. However, if you consider the lever ratio of the stick you'll get about a 10:1 reduction of the force at the end of the stick. A 100lbs maximum stick force sounds plausible (to simulate a blocked linkage for example). The position of the stick is determined by the resolver that is mounted onto the torque motor. Not the most direct way to do this, but there shouldn't be much backlash in the linkage system (or the A-10 wouldn't fly ;o). Cheers, DSP
  14. Hi Deadman, your calculation is correct if you can fit the sensor to the stick in such a way that 100% stick travel translates in 100% sensor range. Often you loose some sensor range due to the way the sensor is mounted to the stick. An extreme example would be using a rotary potentiometer directly attached to the stick. These usually have a rotation range of 330°. So if no further measures are taken you get a resolution of 330°/1024increment. If you put that into your formula you get 25"*330°/1024inc*Pi/180°=0.14"/inc or 3.57mm/inc. Not a stick you would like to fly with.... -DSP
  15. A-10 Canopy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPUBLIC-AVIATION-A-10-WART-HOG-AFT-AIRCRAFT-CANOPY-/251600810736?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9493b2f0
  16. Ah, another mystery solved! Great job! :thumbup: Cheers, DSP
  17. I'm using the standard settings now. I've tested Alternate Frame Rendering 1 and 2 but the standard settings worked best. IIrc, AFR1 and 2 gave pretty much the same results as no SLI at all.
  18. atsmith6, I don't think the CPU is the bottleneck here as even when I climb straight into the sky the framerate isn't going up from 40-50fps. On the other hand there are instances where I can fly over large towns and forrests and still have 100+fps. I'll check the smoke effects and CPU useage again. However, the fps drop usually happens when I'm well past the two (smoldering) trucks and before I even engage the patrol (and sometimes after the patrol is already out of sight again).
  19. LoL - a nice ARC reactor in the basement should be enough. :smilewink: It can keep up with the Valley Benchmark (full load on both GPUs), so DCS shouldn't be a problem.
  20. I've been using the ingame fps counter. When it drops from 130 to 50fps the external (NVIDIA) SLI bar also drops from 80% to about 30% GPU load. So it's not just the fps counter that's acting up here. Cheers, DSP
  21. Yep, but sadly it isn't mine......(yet :music_whistling:) As for the temperatures - I paused the sim after the initial cockpit zoom while it was still at 130fps and waited a few minutes. When the cards had stable temperatures the fps had dropped to about 110fps. When I continued I had the same effect as before. Killed the first two trucks with the gun, turned toward the patrol and dropped to 50fps. However, I noticed that contrary to what I said earlier the sim sometimes switches back to the 'high fps mode'. However, I couldn't find any connection to the temperatures or the clock speeds.
  22. eekz, I'll doublecheck the temperatures, but had no problems with the valley benchmark. Also wouldn't the GPU usage go up when the Titans start to clock down?
  23. Exorcet, thanks for the reminder, but sadly I don't have much choise if I want to do any flying in the next 6 month...
  24. Hi guys, I'm looking for new hardware for DCS world. I currently have the opportunity to test DCS world 1.2.8 on a system with a stock 4770k, 16GB ram, and 2xTitan Black (6GB each) in SLI on a single 3960x2160TV limited to 30Hz by HDMI. When I start the first A10C instant mission (Easy - East Georgia - Spring) I initially get 120-130fps and the green SLI status bar shows both GPUs at about 80%. (Looks and feels great!!! :thumbup:) The problem is, that after a minute or two the fps goes down to 40-50fps and the SLI status bar goes down to about 30%. This effect is independent of the viewing direction and not reversable. E.g. I have to restart the mission to get back to 130fps. When I disable SLI (e.g. running a single Titan Black) I get about 50-70fps throughout the mission with no strange effects. I wonder if any SLI user here observed the same effect (and maybe has a solution). Cheers, DSP
  25. I started with a nice and simple extension that I bought second hand (I think it's a metalnwood version). The upper and lower connector were really nicely done but the extension was way too short for my use. So after going over the images of the original stick I ordered a 45x2.5mm (I think the original is 1.75"=44.45mm) aluminium tube. I would have liked to get a 45x1 tube to keep the weight down, but had no luck in finding one. Having on tools to bend such a large diameter tube, I simply cut about 10 slots half way though the tube where the inner side of the bend was to be. Now the tube was weakend enough to be bend by using a standard vice and a wooden stick (to extend the tube another 50cm). Next I glued a short, straight 25mm aluminium tube into the now bend section to strengthen the bend and at the same time closing the remains of the cut slots. The original 1" tube of the stick extension was cut in half and glued into the upper and lower end of the 45mm tube to act as interfaces to the connectors of the original stick extension. The stick extension is balanced (e.g. it stands on its own). Thus the warthog will get back to center if kept within about 50% of its new travel range (which is limited be the legs). I will probably install or add an additional spring however. The disconnect lever will be next. It would also be nice to have a working stick shaker ((:D)), but I'll have to do some research on when to activate it. Cheers, Stefan
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