Dropship Pilot

Are you using the "larger than native" resolutions just for video or for the sim too? In the later case it would be a waste of GPU power or am I missing something? - Stefan

Dang - there are some shops that have it listed as 1920x1080! And I fell for it... :poster_oops:

What about the Acer S1213Hn? Cheers, Stefan

... and it will help keeping the family downstairs from getting mad ;) Hmm, now that I think about it: I have an old subwoofer that's not in use anymore - might be good for a first test. Cheers, Stefan

Tom, the value range of the Yaw Trim is -1 to 1 and not 0 to 1 as on the light input. Thus you'll have to change the lua line to include the offset. Cheers, Stefan PS: I see Hans was quicker in typing ... ;)

PeterP: I've already toyed with the idea of using a buttkicker. However, the seat pan was built from several layers of 8mm plywood (DM: thanks for the pictures and measurements) and thus is quite massive - so I'm not sure if I'll get a good effect from the buttkicker. On the plus side: even if I turn the BK up it won't get anywhere :D Whisky One: The ejection seat handles were made from 8mm plywood too. First, I cut three templates (for the recess in the grip area, for the cutout and for the recess at the lower edge of the cutout). Then I used these together with a manual router with a template guide to mill the handles into shape. All in all I have to say that it would probably have been easier to make the grips from two layers of 5mm and 3mm aircraft quality plywood and a jigsaw, but I wanted to try working with the router. Cheers, Stefan

And so it begins ... ... a testfit of my ACESII built. It's made from wood and sheet aluminium. The parachute container is an original part. Still quite some work to do but you can already guess what it will be when finished. Thanks a lot to everyone providing measurements and pictures - without your help this project would be a no go! Cheers, Stefan

On the original A-10 the INCR - DECR slider is used to adjust the friction of the throttle. As the TM Warthog throttle is build with differend mechanics they had to move the fricton control to the front of the throttle box. Thus the silder is free for you to use. Cheers, Stefan

Actually, a pot on the B256A13 is an axis (the B256A13 is a joystick controller after all - just like the throttle of the TM Warthog). Thus the behavior should be exactly the same. Cheers, Stefan

So what's TM? Touchpal? Cheers, Stefan

Hi Tom, for a first test, just use one of the axes of your warthog throttle instead of Brydling's board. That should do fine if you do it as described above (and if not the error has nothing to do with the B256A13). Oh, now I see where the error might be: use "return TriggerValue/65536" instead of "LUA: return TriggerValue/65536". Cheers, Stefan

Ah, nice! Didn't know that this was possible with Helios. :book::doh: Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it's only possible to connect pots to values that can be SET (as the VHF AM Radio Volume). The 1st Frequency Selector of the VHF AM Radio for example can only be incremented or decremented so connecting a pot wouldn't make sense. Or did I miss something? Cheers, Stefan

Judging from this picture... ... I'd say that the lights are (more or less) standard panel lights (in this case with a clear/red cap). The ones on Deadman's landing gear knob have a differend end cap, but seem otherwise identical. The standard lights can be found on ebay under the name "Grimes Post". Cheers, Stefan

Sorry, I seem to have missed your post(s) about the dimensions. Bad experience in the past? That's ok for me. And thanks again for the great images. Cheers, Stefan

Ah, great stuff! :thumbup: I agree - it won't be the easiest part to cast. Especially if there are threads for the lenses in it. If I had to do it, I'd probably mold it with the lenses already installed and then I'd put two large diameter LEDs into the mold prior to casting. You won't be able to change them, but with LED I don't see a problem there. Nevertheless this will be tricky/and required quite some work. Could you give us the outer diameter and the thickness of the headpiece and the length of the handle. With that info it should be possible to make a convincing replica. Thanks a lot, Stefan

I can only agree that the knobs have the look and feel of injection molded parts. Great job! :thumbup: I'd be in for full size MFCD bezels. And some dimensions and or a cast of the landing gear handle would be great if you have an original and/or the data available. :D Thanks a lot, Stefan

From the Flight Manual: Cheers, Stefan

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fairchild-Republic-A-10-Thunderbolt-II-Throttle-Control-RARE-/380466252109?pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item58958e494d&vxp=mtr .... if only I could by it. :(

Just got the parts in. Top quality - those casts look like injection molded! Can't wait to get the next batch. Cheers, Stefan

Just in case I didn't mention it: GREAT STUFF! :thumbup: Thanks a lot, Stefan

Ah, I see! Thanks! :thumbup:

Peter, I had a look at your last sketch of the projector setup. I may be missing something, but wouldn't it be better to place the projectors behind the screens (I'm not talking rear projection here!)? That way you'd have only the lens area with no projection and no shadows of the projectors themself. Sure, with a given room size, the projection volume get's smaller as you can't use the room walls as screens. However, I don't see an immediated disadvantage in that other than that you have to build separate screens to project on. Cheers, Stefan

Here's an image that shows the effect (with much lower resolution though): There's a catch however - you won't be able to move your head from the optimal position unless you render a much larger area than the actual HUD. So you'd probably need to use the monitor in landscape mode (as head motions are more side to side than up-down) but it should be doable. Cheers, Stefan

Great stuff guys! :thumbup: Did anyone consider to replace the glass of his HUD with a mirror? Ok now most people will consider me mad, but hang on: If you use a mirror instead of a glass you could project the whole image (e.g. HUD + environment) without any offset and with much higher resolution. So your standard projection of the environment would probably be 1920 on something like 3 meters width which gives you a pixel size of about 1.5mm. Now with the HUD as a "monitor" you could get a resolution of 1920x1080 on the HUD! Assuming a HUD width of 200mm and portrait mode of the HUD monitor you'd get a pixel size of 200mm/1080= 0.18mm. So what do you think about this? Cheers, Stefan

Nice and sweet! :thumbup: