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Me thinks you are making this game to be way harder than it actually is :). You really only need to know a couple of steps as kylania pointed out. And trust me chemistry is way more intensive than this.. If you can learn that you can easily learn this :) now if you have absolutely no desire, then no problem. But if you do have some interest, take 1 weapon at a time and you'll get it down in no time, I promise. Easy to learn, harder to master. But it's a game do we don't need to master :) oh also, the x52 has more than enough buttons to fully control the a10 Sorry I know you wanted help with game avionics but I couldn't help it.

Just some input if you'd like an awesome machine without needing to spend top dollar for parts.. I built two i5 2500k machines (quad core btw, just no hyperthreading but I have no use for that) and overclocked them to 4.5ghz EASY. I mean 1 click and never look back easy. I could probably go to 5ghz if I felt like messing around with voltages and such. Put in GTX 570, 8gb 1333 ram (gskill brand I think), 750gb hdd, win7 64bit. What do you want it to run? It will run it. Battlefield 3 runs at 60fps and up on high/ultra settings DCS runs at 70fps and up at absolute max settings So while the i7 might sound cool, definitely not necessary (for gaming). Just some of my advice. And as far as motherboards go, as long as it has enough slots for your cards and the correct socket for your CPU, all the other stuff is just gravy.

thank you very much! looks like 570 it is then haha!

thank you very much! The 570 is quite tempting hehe. I heard that crucial was one of the better brands for SSD? which brand do you recommend? I am a noob with SSD so I will need to research quite a bit, but Im just curious.

Hello everyone, My current system is in my sig, and since Christmas is coming up, Ive been thinking about adding a few goodies obviously any video card would be an upgrade, but I was looking at the 560ti because it is a quality card but still relatively affordable. However, should I look at the 400 series for a possibly cheaper solution? I just dont like buying older models that will need to be upgraded again sooner than later. Also, would the price increase be worth it for a 570 perhaps? I dont think I want to spend 580 money. (actually im sure of it) my motherboard is the asus p6t deluxe v2, which does not have sata 6gb/s, but I was interested in a SSD. They would probably be cheaper for the older SSD models, but would this upgrade be worth it? I would probably only have win7 and DCS on it. Finally, I was looking at adding more ram for fun. I have 6gigs currently, but though if it was cheap enough I could get 6 more. First question is, does all the ram need to be the same? The current ram I have in my PC is discontinued. its OCZ 1600 ram with timings of 7-7-7-24. Second question, if anyone is familiar with my motherboard and how it overclocks, my ram is currently running at 1440 or around there. If I were to get cheaper 1333 ram, would there be an issue trying to run it higher? Ive never OC'd ram before. I like my CPU overclock where it is and wouldnt want to scale back for my RAM. Thanks for any input!:joystick:

Yeah, I was one of the ones that crashed (John). I went back to the server browser with an error that said client update timeout, or something like that. Usually I just get DCS not responding crashes

ah thank you, it does read CDU NOT READY, it was just so fast I didnt see it clearly.

I get lower FPS now, especially with the TGP on the mfd. It could be my computer having a bad day, I guess I will find out the more I play. I did the full installation as well (including a defrag). also, after landing for refuel/rearm, I get a warning of cicu error on both mfd's for a split second then back to normal (happens while taxi'ing). Also, the ATC wont respond to me anymore after I land and try to take off again. I like how the TGP looks though :)

if the yellow lines outlining your face are moving wildly, it wont work. For me that is usually a lighting issue, other times I'm not sure why it cant stay steady. I have a lamp that points directly at my face (off to the left of my desk, so not right in the eyes) and it works pretty well. When it does start acting up, I just bring up the facetrack window, stop tracking, and start again. Also, I had to adjust gain and exposure settings for my webcam, but I dont know if those things exist for the ps3 eye. I use the following settings, if you're interested smoothing - 20 min - 80 max - 80 curve - 40 Other than that, I dont know what to tell you other than its free software and will always have some bugs :(

cool beans, thank you very much :)

I do use the campaign option, I was just looking at the files out of curiosity

I tried searching, but I apologize if I missed it.. I recently tried my luck at the campaign and got confused by the order of the missions. In the campaign folder I see Push 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 2-1 etc.. So I figure it would play 1-1, followed by 1-2, and progress that way. however, I started at 1-1, then the next mission was 2-1, followed by 3-1. I failed 3-1 and decided to restart the campaign. I noticed that the first mission this time was 1-2. I got confused, and hit the restart campaign button again, which put me back to 1-1. Am I missing something or is this correct?

If you a sandy bridge processor 1.5 won't work, gotta donate for version 1.6

yes, neutral zone is like deadzones. to deal with the high sensitivity, I use a smoothing of 20, a min of 80, a max of 80, and a curve of 10 or 20 I dont remember. Still, it varies day by day depending on the lighting and also how many frames Im currently getting in game (at least it seems that way). Some days my view will go where it should with minimal shakes, others it will start doing 360's and bounce everywhere. Free software i guess huh?

are you running both facetracknoir and dcs a10c as an administrator? That fixed the crashes for me

Hey, thats me! Yeah, I got disconnected from the server. I'll PM you! glad you looked me up, that was fun for the short time haha

NeedtoKow - I just got the basic ASUS P8P67 board as I didnt need the extra slots for SLI. I think all new ASUS boards have that new bios now that makes overclocking a breeze. and I agree Migo, the i5 2500k will perform just as well as the i7 for most purposes (thats what I went with). Unless hyperthreading is something you need, go with i5 :)

yeah that computer will rock, and actually I thought I read 5870 for some reason so I was going to suggest an upgrade. doh! sandy bridge and p67 are great! I have 2 i5 2500k computers and both got to 4.5ghz @1.2-1.3v overclock on air cooling with EASE. Idle temps low 30s, full load 70s, gaming 50s. It was ridiculous how easily it worked lol. With water cooled Im sure you could go 5ghz if you wanted!

thats awesome, and worth it :) new toys are always fun haha. did you already order the parts? I could offer some humble suggestions if you havent. Either way that will be a beast of a machine!

I guess I just need to better familiarize myself with the TAD. I can't really tell elevation from looking at it. I was messing around with a generated mission with low clouds and enemy tanks.. Didnt take long before I crashed while trying to target them haha. I was mainly enjoying the awesome scenery above the cloud layer but couldnt come back down

that was awesome! now, what would you do if the runway was inland and you couldn't see the terrain? how do you avoid mountains hehe :)

I was looking for a MP server earlier and didn't see yours. Could you post the IP address so I can try a direct connect? is it normal to only see about 10 servers? (half with passwords)

When would you choose to use manual laze over auto laze? You don't need to do both correct? just one or the other?

just put the min/max settings of the filter way up. Mine are at 80 I think. for the curves, you can edit while in game so it shouldnt take to long to find something that works for you. Just figure out how far you want to turn your head for a 180 turn in game (looking behind you). I generally leave roll and x untouched as I dont need much movement there. zoom, yaw, and pitch are the important ones for me. I used VFriend's .ini file for a start then just up'd the smoothing and min/max values, then tweaked the curves slightly. granted, its still jittery at times, or loses my face when I turn too far to the left or right, but I can focus on something enough to actually work the switches. note: I've never used freetrack or trackIR so I guess I cant compare accurately

It's a bug, there is a thread about it somewhere. Are you using trackIR or equivalent? If I have my facetracknoir running while viewing a track, it will work until I change views. Then I eventually nosedive. If I disable facetrack before the track loads, then I am free to change views as I please.