agrasyuk

:doh: :doh: My apologies. Still, if one was looking to build a DIY router, a not 100% functional machine can be nice headstart (depending on what is broken).

not necessarily. my process is to take the layered DXF drawing from ACAD and feed it to thunderlaser Cam software, select a cut/engrave/power% for each layer to be processed and everything else is magically happening by itself. no G-codes for me to mess with. autoCAD student version is free (for 3 years) my laser connects via USB (did have to find old laptop with win xp however) DSP controller upgrade indeed set me back that much. carbide cutters for laser? :huh:

laser engraver cab be summarized to following subsystems: chassy and mechanical (the XY stage for moving the morrors, motorized lift table) power (PSU for logic and PSU for laser tube) optical (laser resonator, mirrors and focus lens) logic - the controller. i never heard of "Shark" lasers, but i think it cant be any worse then generic china sh...t engraver that i'm running really well if the enclosure and all the mechanical parts are in good shape then the purchase should be worth it. you might need to replace the tube, you might need to replace the mirrors, you might need to align the beam. it is highly probably you would need new focusing lens.

56-75hz means that in order for your monitor to show a picture the vertical scan freqency of your video signal has to be within that range. Pixel refresh time notes how long it takes a pixel to change color once it receives command to do so from panel controller. ADD: Consider reading "refresh rate" article in wiki. You will get good idea on what V and H scan rates are, what they have to do with image generation, how it relates to resolution of a monitor (why it is a range) .

Странный вопрос, думал что тому кто более менее представляет танковый бой будет очевидно преимущество того кто первый обнаружит противника. И если речь идёт не только о симуляторе то поражение даже без пробития тоже может быть черевато серьезными последствиями.

Nope, it doesn't mean that. Not windows language. I looked up specs of your monitor, and your vertical sync is in 56-75Hz, how can you draw more frames? I'd say read up a bit on vertical and horizontal scan rates. Those concepts apply to both CRT and LCD

My throttle works perfectly through onboard USB2 so it is within spec. I'm not sure that answer such as "draw is exactly 3xx.55mA" going to help you or tech rep. If moving it to another port doesn't solve the issue consider using powered hub. And IMHO you should be using one with the throttle in any case.

EMC больше не работает и не разрабатывается. Вот тут интересное решение и новая утилита .(бета) : http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=125728&highlight=mfcd

This looks good aesthetics wise. I wonder what thought went into break down of the conponents (ie why 8 rockers and not 10, why 2 rotaries and not 1) What functionality do you recomend to be mapped to the inputs? Or well, I guess this is more question to end users. Guys, how do you intend to map your unit?

970 is much more efficient card, drawing only 150W. So in theory one could get away with 650W PSU to run a pair of them. With that I would not go lower then what you selected. It will provide good margin of reserve power, will keep your options open in future (ie if you suddenly land a pair of 980s ), costs not that much more then 750W unit and since its a gold efficient you will not waste to much power . CM Haf would not be my first choice of enclosure due to how it looks, but there is no argue it is a quality part and a very good value for the money. Down to personal preference. How were you planning to install a dual 140mm radiator in it however?

Most of this is inline for what I have in mind for my dedicated flight PC. Personnaly I'm not really worried about 8cl vs 9cl RAM. From what I read difference is hard to notice. I don't see to many advantages in those closed loop water coolers however. IMHO the old and proven CM 212 + offers great performance at fraction of cost (and weight). Inside well vented case such as haf It will handle any overclock you can sustain on the chip you selected. While 120Gb drive will hold OS and DCS with all the modules and future maps (IIRC at over 20Gb a map) I think you cutting it a bit close. I'd put The money you save on cooler towards larger and faster SSD. Those Intel 730 drives look really compelling. Just purchased a 240Gb version of it in fact.

Хок все ещё не выпущен. Елс под давлением общественности вместо все еще не готовой беты выдал предзаказавшим демку которую он ранее распространял. Поэтому там наверняка полно ляпов. И естественно без ПФМ. Флайт модель в этом году и не ожидалась. Спорить не готов , но очень удивлюсь если выйдет раньше весны. Собственно ещё один пример для разработчиков ничего не обещать в плане сроков.

1. wouldn't matter 2. wouldn't matter what i would suggest is dumping the duct tape. you could have used wood screws instead. your local hardware store has a lot of very common building materials. check electric and plumbing section for stuff like straps, conduit hangers and pipe fittings ball bearings are dirt cheap actually. here is a lot of 10 pieces for 5$ http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Ball-Bearings-R4Z-5-8-x-1-4-x-196-/181523217986?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item2a43a07e42 you could do better then this if you get it from china.

Yes, but you didn't say what hardware you are turning and turning. Inc decoder? Abs encoder? Switch? Potentiometer? Toy car wheel? :) all these can have continuous rotation. By your description it sounds like it was a pot. When you connect input elements to digital input pins there is no way it will ever be recognized as analog axis. It will act as pair of buttons after you configure it properly ( all you will get otherwise is erratic button twich).

What is "rotary with no stop" ? The only thing that could match the behaviour your described is a continous rotation potentiometer connected to analog inputs of LB card. Seems like very strange thing to do :huh: To accomplish your task: 1.Use incremental 2phase rotary encoders like linked above on 2 digital inputs of LB card. 2.Wih the software provided Configure your LB to treat those two inputs as a decoder. 3. Asign corresponding inputs directly in DCS. And BTW, Helios wasn't part of your problem.

Aesthetically It doesn't look to bad really. Your hand however will appreciate a smoother surface. but then again hard to tell from picture, maybe it is smooth enough to touch. Cool stuff. Looks like you a sim racer as well. That msffb makes a really nice adjustable stick shift lever and you have in the just right place :) And Be careful about that cup of coffee while you work on cabling :)

Looks really good. I think I would have used epoxy instead of hot glue, but this will do. To tidy things up I'd say remove all the excess glue, sand, fill any voids with either modeling putty or epoxy filler, sand, repeat until smooth. Little though will need to go in if you need possibility to open the handle for service.

no, i'm not quite sure what do you mean. what encoders are you using? incremental quadrature ones (like these. pretty good deal BTW) don't report exact position, but amount of displacement pulses and their direction, so no degrees there. absolute encoders (like this 16 position, 4bit one) report exact position of the encoder and AFAIK are not used with LB cards. how are you mapping it in Helios? if all fails you can try and write a script with autohotkey that will read raw inputs from your encoder, analyse and translate it into keystrokes to displace the heading bug.

Congrats! Growing your own little minion is quite a thing. Takes time away from simming, but I'd say that investment is very worthy. My is reached 6yo mark and starting to be very useful as as helping me with my projects and hobbies.

You just described an ordinary incremental rotary encoder. Nothing overly complicated there, and can be solved in more then one way. But to better answer OP's question of which controller to use its good to know what encoder he will be using

Depends what encoder you using. If it is the cheap 2 phase quadrature encoders (ebay) then you can configure Bodnar's card to interpret the signals. If you using 3 or more phase encoders then IMHO most optimal solution is using something like arduino and write your own code to interpret the input.

GPwiz board is made for GGG, aside of private sales on eBay I did not see it for sale anywhere other then GGG website. Which makes sense, bodnar board is only sold from Leo's site as well

Зависит от того что именно и в каком ввиде требуется. Если требуется команда которая приедет на дом и соберёт готовый тренажер из своего кита, то врядли. Но на этом форуме время от времени появляются люди изготавливающие разные детали, контроллеры, панели, наборы летных кресел. Например вчера участник из UK выложил видео прототипа устройства UFC (в англоязычной части форума) которое так понимаю будет на заказ изготавливать. Так же гуляют чертежи панелей, каркасов и куча разной инфы. Есть сайты которые продают приборы , например simkits и simmeters (последний пока закрыт... ). Так что кое-что есть. Весь вопрос что нужно/хочется ну и естественно какие финансовые возможности :) если дать кличь "есть чемодан денег, хочу пит" то возможно кто-то из местных подрядится

Обычные on-off тумблеры как и on-off-on можно использовать прописав в файле настройки действие по выключению . пишу с мобильника, приеду домой попробую найти примеры.

goodness, there i was happy that i found something close and they have versions on top of series lol :doh: quick ebay search got me to this lot. not a pull to turn and a continous rotation variant, but at almost doable price. these seem to operate entirely different then the cheapo 3 lead quadrature encoders. not yet sure what kind is better for the software to drive my fantasy device , but thanks for pointing to these.