Gremlin77

I use a small TV monitor with vga to TV converter for my CDU, too. But I'm so happy with these Lilliput USB monitors,'cause they don't need a graphic card. So, I can run both graphic cards together with SLI lifting up FPS extremely. For instruments, size should be between 2 and 3 '' I think. Have to measure it exactly. Thnaks for the links, mike!!!

no I am not with eurofighter. But eurocopter is located here next to augsburg. but not my business. Good idea with the lights. Will have to think about how to set the fuselage "in scene". BTW I will have to lift the fuselage up about 400 mm to get the nose up the future floor. So, mainly the hole fuselage will be visible when floor is closed. Thought about using glass at some parts of the floor to make it visible.

USB monitors are the one side. I use three lilliput USB monitors for MFD and ADI. They work fine. But I cannot get my hands on a real small monitor to use in an instrument. And I don't want to write an arduino prog to use an arduino TFT. I'm not very good in arduino programming, so this would be a project for weeks.

Hi, have a short question. Did anybody try to use a digital photoframe as display unit for DCS? I wonder if it could be possible to take one for e.g. the RWR screen. Had the idea to just take a screenshot of RWR every second and copy the picture to the pictureframe via usb. Then on next picture change of the frame you have actual RWR screen. This should work for RWR, the clock and so on, where timing is not so relevant. Or has anybody an idea where to get a Screen with about 2'' and VGA, HDMI or USB to use it for these instruments? Thanks for help.

using another lilliput 8'' monitor I started to close the front middle console. The two instruments will be ADI and HSI. (Why I tell you, ya all know the A-10....) Using Helios hope it will look good. Have to insert the three rotary encoders vor the ADI and HSI. Under this matched the Navigation Mode Select Panel and the Target Identification Set Laser panel with a bit of an angle upwards for better visibility. Some covers and it hopefully look fine. The left console panels are all nearly at the final position and fixed. Now, standing here with a cup of coffee in my hand smoking a little cigarette, I ask myself if this thing will ever work again. :cry: Just seeing a giant amount of cables, panels, monitors, computer, switches and circuits AAARGGGHHHHH Think have to sit down for some minutes...just doing nothing

have a short questions. Does anybody has an idea of using multiple PC's for rendering the views for DCS. In the past I've build cockpits for the FSX and there you could use multiple PC's for the views (think it was called WideView or WideFS if I remember correctly). But until now, I didn't find a solution for DCS. Now I use one PC with two graphic cards and a TripleHeadToGo to get all the views. But this is hard work for one PC. An having 5 projectors with five views....you have to have a damn fast machine to get 60 fps

wow. very clean work. panels look really perfect. go on, want to see more more more

Just threw in the left front console. The holes start to close.

Yes I'll build up a floor. So the pool itself wont be visible anymore. Just the pit growing out of the ground. So should be convinient to get in and out without a ladder. And Manuel, Weingarten is "just around the corner" (about 160km) from Augsburg. So, you're welcome anytime, if you want to make a nice weekend-trip. Cockpit builders always welcome, and a beer is always in the fridge!

Made some progress this night. Yesterday repainted top side of the glareshield and reinstalled it. HUD is reinstalled two. Have lost two fingers of my right hand and half the left arm to fumble the hole sh... in, but who cares :cry: Right front console fits perfectly, what makes me sigh with relief. On the left side console I installed the Thrustmaster and rearanged positions of the panels. The don't fit in original A-10 order, because the thrust levers in Tornado sit right to left front console. Now, have to take a coffee break for sure.......

I do not wash the parts at all after cutting. But I didn't have this effect that the part smells that way. Remember, when you cut something with a laser, you do not realy cut, but you vaporize material. So please check if your pressurized air blown in the focus lens head of your laser is working and turned to max. 'cause if you dont blow your fumes away from the focus lens (and so off the part) you will soon have problems with your laser focus lens because the fumes lay on the lens and your laser can't get through!

1500 x 1200 !!!! no I'm not jealous.........or perhaps a bit......no I AM JEALOUS!!! but I am lucky,'cause for bigger parts I have cnc milling machine with 1500mm x 1000mm from pre-laser-times. But I hate always attending to calculate the loss for the diameter of the milling cutter on the parts. And no real edges. Always this studid radius in every corner

I use a jig saw witch an extreme fine blade with lots of teeth for acrylics. For the Laserply you can use simply a cutter knife. I always cut to 600x300 mm for a hole plate that fits in the laser and then move the inital point for each panel I cut from the plate

In the past I used painted acrylic, two. Now I use a double layered plastic you can buy for laser engraving. It's a white plastic with about 1.6mm in thicknes with a thin top layer of black plastic you laser away to see the white plasic. This gave me the best results and the black top layer is not as sensitive to scratches as paint is. BTW you can buy a lot different color combinations. Look at ebay or a shot for engraving equipment. The one I use is named LASERPLY.

So, reinstalled the nose dome again. now it looks like a jet fighter. Tested my prebuild panels. right front panel was new made and with the side consoles I had lot of luck, 'cause the tornado needs panels with a width of 150mm and I made all my panels this dimension. Puh..... Next step is to build a steel underconstruction to get rid of the wooden pallets. When this is done, the floor is closed top of the pool so the hole room has same level and the pit sits about 500 mm in the ground.

BTW, try less power or more speed on front panel engraving. just laser away the only top slice of it, then your engraving will have no "structure" and problems like the middle point of the "R" right next to APU GEN PWR", that has disappeared won't occur.

very nice result! And what do you say? Great tool such a laser, isn't it? I love this machine!! So have fun with it!

Good god it's in...........

It's not that expensive Mastiff you might think. It's only the fuselage without instrumentation. Worst was shipping from England to Germany

Who said jets with no wings can't fly????

don't do it linden! Just take a break and bit of distance to it and you'll see you will love it again. Sitting nights and nights searching for reasons why this or that doesn't work, nice windows blue screens smiling at you..... The sweet smoke of electronic components you decided to give the wrong voltage to.....Believe me you'll miss it! and by the way....would you tell us what is your new love????? Something better than cockpit building???

Hi, in this thread is the download link for my little prog: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=100704 have fun!

All microbuttons soldered

So, finished up the electric plate of the UFC and here are some pics of backlight in action. Decided to use one resistor for all LEDs together and I was lucky, all LED light at the same level.:pilotfly:

Yes distilled water is the same. With pressure instrument I mean a small sensor that guards if there is waterpressure on. If not, no cooling -> no laser. I use a 10 liter bucket with an aquarim pump. Thats enough and I think you won't run the lasers for 10 hours without a break, so think it won't get to hot. To check, just hold a finger in..... ;-)