statrekmike

Anyone have a used X52 that they are looking to get rid of? I don't have a whole lot of money so I can really only buy one used and really only in the United States (I doubt I could afford international shipping). I am finding it a bit annoying to play DCS sims with only a precision pro but I really do not have the kind of money needed for a new X52 when the prices for new ones can range from $100 and up and are almost never in stock online. any help would be much appreciated! Thanks so much for reading. Mike

Perhaps you would be willing to sell your older set? I would love a X52 pro but I cannot afford a new one.

good to know, I will begin making a cap setup as soon as I have a hat. thanks for all the info!

So you think the hat might be easier in terms of everyday use? I find that I have to fiddle with the clip to make it work okay, I recently turned the sensitivity up a bit on the pitch axis and that seemed to prevent some of the overlap but I still want something that is a bit easier to deal with, something I don't have to "baby" so much. I am gonna get my hands on a basic ball cap and try out the cap method, it seems less prone to position problems and the LED's are always spaced out pretty well. KLR Rico, perhaps you could post your LED cap unit's dimensions so I Can build one that I am sure will work out? Thanks for the answers so far!

Is the cap considered easier to deal with than the clip, I am having nothing but issues with LED overlap (where the top and middle LED combine on camera and cancel each other out) with the (default size) clip I just rebuilt. I am getting VERY annoyed with the clip because I just don't have a reliable way to mount the thing to a headset and keep it from shifting position, does the cap perform better? I only ask because I would have to go out and buy a hat, and am not much of a hat person to begin with.

Okay, I rebuilt the clip to default size and it seemed to have done the trick for the most part! I still gotta do some mild sensitivity tweaking but the movements feel much more comfortable. I would never have fixed it if I did not get all of the help from everyone, thanks so much! Happy flying! Mike

So I am going to go ahead and redo the model (I never secured the wires to the frame so it will be a easy job, the only problem is that I am not very clear on the "rules" to how to size and shape the model, I see many folks with very different shapes and sizes and I just don't know what the best one would be. I am using a 3 point clip with a Xbox live vision camera, I sit about 3 feet away from the monitor (that can change easily if needed) but I would be open to building a cap model if it works better in general. So I am gonna pretend that I am starting over, what dimensions (length of the individual arms) and shape (angle of the arms) should I go for? Thanks so much for the replies, you folks are great!

So I am using freetrack with both DCS A-10C and Black Shark, I have very few problems with A-10 but I have nothing but problems with Blackshark. The view keeps snapping to a close up of the HUD whenever I turn or look down, this makes playing the game pretty tough and I am at wits end here. I know freetrack is not supported without what can be best described as mods, but I really don't understand how to get this thing properly setup for best results, it must be the way I have the freetrack software setup so I wonder if there are any other freetrack users that can shed some light on this and perhaps offer some tips on how to configure the software for best results. I am using a three point clip and all three lights show up okay, A-10 is very jittery (despite the "JPS" rating in the software being zero) and that makes it difficult to hit switches, the view angles are also kinda messed up, they just don't feel right. Blackshark works okay till the view starts snapping forward (almost like you are leaning forward and looking over the nose, you can see the Hud projector) for no reason, I cannot understand why this is the only game that does this. any tips on how to make freetrack work as advertised?

That sounds great, I just shot you a personal message (I hope it went throught!) thanks so much!

Hey Phantom, looking to sell that X-52?

I am already in the process of gathering up the parts for a freetrack setup, seems pretty easy and I only need to get about $5 worth of LED's and a battery case. from what I have read, there is very little actual difference between TrackIR and freetrack. I am slowly but surely setting up the keyboard controls to be more comfortable for me and the more I configure the controls, the better I seem to be getting at the game. Judging from the help I am getting, I imagine this is a community I will never stop visiting. Thanks

Spent a few hours tooling with the controls, I think I have the start of a workable setup. Thanks so much for the tips and insight, I suspect I will be asking many more questions in the future.

What is Nate's full username, I will try to run a search to find his posts.

I am not gonna lie, I am currently unemployed (RI is tough) and don't have the budget for a new stick, the game was a steam gift from a buddy who probably did not imagine that it would require a different control setup. I cannot project when I will be able to afford a new setup, if that time comes I will have to settle with the X52 because I simply cannot spend the nearly $400 for the Thrustmaster warthog (to be honest I have trouble justifying a purchase that large for only a couple of flight sims that I play). It is a crappy deal, but I gotta press on with what I have for now and hope that it will be enough.

Any good sites that have control layouts I should try that would work well for my specific stick (or as well as can be asked for)? I know a lot of folks don't really use the Microsoft precision pro anymore but it is all I have for the time being.

Well, after searching the forum pretty exhaustively, I have found that some do in fact play with just a stick. any links to control layouts that my precision pro can handle? I am looking into a DIY solution called freetrack for head movement to free up the hat switch for other functions.

So I have been trying to get into A-10 and so far I am loving the detail, there is one small problem however. I only have a Microsoft Precsion pro joystick and that is not likely to change in the near future (I know that I SHOULD be using a X-52 or a Thrustmaster HOTAS and TrackIR but I cannot afford them at all.) What keybinds and settings can I use that will help make this game playable? Thanks so much in advance! -Mike