0utLAW

I was looking at pitblr's panels and was wonder if anyone else is producing similar panels?

I found these at Pep Boys, what do you think? http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/8321460/

Does anyone have a pic of the push pull switches?

I'm finding that out! For instance My Saitek X52 Pro needs to be directly connected to my system. Otherwise, it has issues. Not even a single USB extension works. For some reason my A-10 wants to nose dive out of auto pilot. Also the powered USB hub you see in this picture sucks. I thought it would be nice to have a power switch for some USB devices but it is a cheap piece of craftsmanship!

New Pic. I think I'm going to order another GP-Wiz40 and this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10307&cs_id=1030702&p_id=6436&seq=1&format=2

I'm in the same boat, but I am using Helios to do all my key binding for my switches. I also have one switch that is using the R1 and R2 connections on the GPWiz40. Looks like those two connections are the X rotation and X axis. I'm not sure how to bind them as a toggle in Helios. I see that you can change the action value to "Static trigger" but this doesn't seem to do the trick. I need it for my inverter switch . Any help on this would be great. So far I have not had to edit one .lua file for any of my key bindings! I just made a profile for my Saitek X52 pro using the SST software and Helios for my switches and second monitor.

Just tried it and it works.

Has anyone used the Export viewports with the new version of A-10 1.2.1?

Laurius, Thanks for the comment. I know I should have mentioned using Helios in my first post. Don't worry about the Windows path, I was still able to find it and just wanted to post where I found mine just in case someone else couldn't find theirs. Your English is fine by the way. Your points are understood. Glad I've inspired you to build again. I always like to see people being crafty. Good luck on your build and post pics, Thanks again for all your help! 0utLAW

Laurius, Anyone else using Helios for the assigning of physical switches? Any modifications needed to change the signal to momentary(if possible)? So far I had no problems with the start up training mission as stated above. Except I need some more switches.:hehe:

Some progress My plan for the AHCP

Thanks again Deadman. Didn't even see that. Woke up and checked my thread half asleep. :) JG can you explain a little more about why I would need a multi pin plug. Not to sure what that is or what it would do. Also, I made a little shelf on the front to add a couple of extra switches for the environmental panel. I guess my underlying goal has been to create panels in order to do a no mouse cold start.

Electrical Panel getting there. Just need to cap it off, put in the supports, drill a hole in the back for wiring and paint!

Deadman, Thanks for the links. Unfortunately, my Google translate isn't working on that page and I can't read German. I was able to look at the panels and was able to spot the reason for his lighting solution not producing even light. I think it's because of his panel construction and the placement of the LEDs. This would no t produce even light because the LEDs ar too close to the surface of the panel. Plus it looks like he would use LEDs with a lens on them which limits the view angle. My theoretical solution- Since my panels will be used on a desktop and modular, I'd be using boxes to house my panels. Layer 1 The housing I was thinking of spraying the inside of the housing with either white or reflective paint. Then use wide angle LEds placed at the bottom of the box and spaced where needed. Thus, (hopefully) producing even light to the face plate. Layer 2 Switch mounting surface Using 1/8" clear plexi as the switch mounting plate. Layer 3 Light blocking A layer of poster board with cut-outs for the text and symbols to block out any unwanted light. Layer 4 Switch labels Next would be the panel labels printed on white paper and mounted to the surface. I would use RGB LED strips(http://www.oznium.com/rectangle-led-module) and a control unit(http://www.oznium.com/inline-rgb-led-controller) to change the colors for different sims. Hmmm, now if I design it so you could just slip on new panel labels for different sims.

Getting better! http://www.oznium.com/led-string-modules

Hmm, now we're getting somewhere; http://www.all-lighting.com/usb_led_light_chain.htm

Boards all wired up and wire loomed.

Question to those that are using the Groovy Game Gear GPWiz-40. Looks like the ports R1, R2, L1, L2, D1, D2, U1, and U2 are asignd to X rotation, X, Y and Z axis. I have 2 switches that still need to be connected, if I connect these switches to those ports is there a way to have them act as the other ports on the board(on-off)? BTW I'm going to use Helios to do all my assignments. I think it would be nice if they had a check box in the value settings area to select different switch types; Make pulse, Constant on...

Deaman- I was just saying. Not actually going to use that lighted panel. Just thought is was interesting and thought I would share. Hans- Thanks a bunch!

Now imagine my previous post as your panel face plates. You have all your toggle switches, rotaries and dials all mounted now you just have to push a button and now you have a back lit panel that could change it's switch label and color to fit whatever aircraft or sim you want. :)

Yeah ok WHAT!? http://www.lumvatech.com/portfolio/

Thanks Stelios. That was some good reading. I had an idea kind of like that but instead of printing all those layers I was just going to use some poster board with cut-outs around the text and symbols to block out the light. I have a UBS cold cathode that has two cold cats and box that allows them to be different colors and can be sound activated. It might be a little dim but I'll give that a test to see how that looks. Thanks again!

Thanks Deadman. I have the switch in the correct position.

Got the 1/4" MDf and mounted my switches(Should have used 1/8", oh well). I also picked up this http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1v/R-202349444/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=dremel&storeId=10051 for my dremel and let me tell you, when you have a straight edge setup as a guide this thing cuts like a CNC. Sooooo NICE! The printouts currently on the panels are only templates. I'll just print them on full sheet label paper and attach better quality prints. I'll always be able to go back and change these panels with something that will work with the lighting. I'm really happy so far. Tomorrow, make enclosures and begin wiring. One question, the switch for the canopy, is it up=on opens the canopy middle= nothing down= momentary close canopy? I ask is because there is a line next to Canopy Open that says HOLD, and in Loz's Helios profile he has it set to toggle up to open, middle nothing and momentary down to close. Which direction should the momentary switch be, up or down?

For those of you that have the three layers to your panels, how do you light your panel? For those of you that are not using the three layer method how do you light your panel?