bn880

Hi Buzzman, well I just found out/saw your post. :D You generally have to check the switch mechanical and electrical properties by looking at the old one and attempting to match the parameters on sites like Digikey, Mouser etc. Helps a bit to have knowledge in Electronics. Often you can even just read the part number on the old switches, but that doesnt work on the warthogs very well as they saved on the casing markings and didn't differentiate properly. If all else fails, Thrustmaster has all the parts, but it costs more as you experienced. If you need a specific other switch LMK, I can probably get one shipped cheaper than TM. But I assume you are not comfortable resoldering wires onto switches?

Ouch, this switch would work fine just you need to resolder the wires https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=EG2387-ND%20

SOLD OUT OF NEW BOARDS Repair service offered here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233064165979 The only downside of repair is you need to ship your PCB to me first.

SOLD OUT, repair service here https://www.ebay.com/itm/233064165979

All the refurbished ones are sold for now. 1 new remaining. But I will advertise a repair service soon.

Similar to my previous post about 2 new PCB's for sale, I have 2 freshly refurbished and tested/calibrated boards for sale at a lower price: USD https://www.ebay.com/itm/233035552785 CAD https://www.ebay.ca/itm/233029062836 These will actually work just as long as a brand new board as the CPU is new/fresh and freshly programmed. Please remember this if your warthog ever bricks or when you see a friend with the issue. :joystick: Edit: Also if you would like to get a new or repaired PCB from me outside of Ebay slightly cheaper please message me. Edit: SOLD OUT, repair service here https://www.ebay.com/itm/233064165979

I am selling some new genuine Warthog Throttle PCB's here USD https://www.ebay.com/itm/233035543364 CAD https://www.ebay.ca/itm/233024689318 It is cheaper than from TM if you are out of warranty. I am also offering to fix broken Warthog PCB's for a fee, but it would require shipping your PCB (with cheap mail) to Ottawa Canada for service. The serviced PCB would carry a warranty and would likely be more reliable than new due to slightly better parts. For the cost of that please PM me, I have to make sure it's worth it for you :) Edit: If you would like to get a new or repaired PCB from me outside of Ebay slightly cheaper please message me.

Just wanted to mention for anyone else that experiences the brick of death that I am selling some new PCB's to fix the bricking issue at lower cost than TM if you're out of warranty. I am also setting up to repair old broken PCB's (these would be at LEAST as reliable as brand new ;) ). It's especially a good deal for people in Canada followed by USA. Shipping may be a bit excessive to EU but who knows for sure. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/233024689318 Will post on buy/sell also.

Sad to hear it. If it's any consolation, I also just recently purchased a quite expensive incline trainer with a Cypress controller similar to the Hog's, and it fried after 30 minutes of use (just had the board replaced 1 hour ago). These chips are terrible. :/

Additionally the reason the boards expire seems to be a defective PIC chip. Just a manufacturing defect most likely. The Sticks don't have the same issue and dont have the same chip AFAIK.

Why are you over complicating it? You are building a cockpit for a sim, so surely you can just order the main PCB for the throttle and replace it at home. Especially if the symptoms resemble those listed in this thread... (device not listed properly in windows, or may work in usb2.0 ports not 3.0 or vice versa) Also have you tried doing the firmware flashing procedure?

FYI there is another server (DC) that did have to roll back to 1.5.6 due to lag (they work with many units). So it seems it's not an absolutely crazy idea. (I don't personally care either way, but 1.5.7 is developing a pattern there I noticed)

Having some issues here with SRS: The Microphone and Speakers devices are reset on each restart. (1.3.3.0) Additionally the Speaker device names are grabbed using the wrong strings in Windows 10: https://gyazo.com/afd18bd2f93fa4df3f5f8561d94a7e02 https://gyazo.com/d446a78c2fc00c696fd8ccc618a89cad

Superb campaign! It's the only campaign I have seen for the A10 that isn't completely absurd/unrealistic. :) I have seen a few missions stall when the infantryman from the blackhawk doesn't re-enter the helo on mission completion, and thus the mission stops there and won't complete. Anyway, massive Kudos. And yes, mission 2 needs conversion of JTAC to a vehicle. Jackal-A10C-COOP-2FixedJTAC.miz I am attaching the fixed coop one, hope you don't mind.

Argh, don't see the server again. Updated to 5199 and still not showing. Edit: Disregard, it's up.

I get this error sometimes on 104th while in the middle of a mission. Uninstalled Simple Radio long ago. sample log:

No, there will be some wear without the washer, The mechanism that places force on the stick (the large spring) is using the washer to interface between the plastic gimball and the metal plate. All this is hidden from view until you open up the stick completely. Having said this, the wear is very minimal, but it is there. Hempstead still sells the washers, you can message him here, or use his forum. http://www.hempstick.org/jforum/posts/list/7.page It's legit, that washer is only very slightly too tall, and should wear in over time to 100% range.

Getting this too now in the middle of flights on MP servers. Sucky.

Great tip, but slight warning: that ring is 5mm high, which will restrict your range of motion on the stick some especially in the corners. The hempstead one is 3.3mm and it also restricts very little already until it wears in a bit. Still, if you use the calibration tool from TM, you can nullify the range limitation , just that you will have very slightly less precise physical movement. Ideally you'd want 2.8 to 3mm high.

Thanks for the replies. I am running DCS/1.5.6.1938 (x86_64; Windows/10.0.10586) [beta] Unfortunately all the solid info I have is that Main/Other/Operations and Main/Other menus get duplicates. (Target Intel, Ground Assets, Air Assets, Abort Task entries) I can't say for sure when, haven't played since :/ @Overall replay ability: yes all the options left up to the user are great, but it's just not challenging people strategically currently. @Lasing manually for moving vehs: yep that's good, but there should be a disclaimer of this issue, and also, it gets more complicated when the radio menus get messed so you can't tell the JTAC to stop lasing (you then have to change PRF codes everywhere or the JTAC laser can drift your bomb)

Well said! I couldn't agree more.

Nope I am not, also, blind. :D

Hi, not sure what happened to my previous post where I provided this feedback: Great work and everything, it's surprising more people aren't doing randomized missions for DCS :) Issues: The JTAC lasing is an issue in MP Coop on moving vehicles. The vehicles move quite fast and the GBU's land several car lengths behind the targets as a result. The F10 radio menu gets cluttered with duplicate entries for almost all the sub options when doing MP coop and doing a few new target requests. Replayability/play time feedback is: I found that it's like a JTAC and CDU coordinate entry training and after clearing a few targets it becomes repetitive. You don't feel like there is a consequence to not hitting a target, or hitting it, and the ground force support isn't really required it seems. So it should be random IMHO, but with clear objectives beyond hit X, ones which have win/lose results based on some strategy or just good performance.

Strangest thing, treid to play this today but it won't show up as SP nor MP mission. Just isn't listed. Tried rezipping it, didn't help. Somehow incompatible I guess.

Hmm any way to use the JTACs via built in radio comms/data link as well? (frequencies not listed) Trying it - so far the mission is great other than that limit.