XAiracobraX

Did this get fixed in the new (5/20) patch? After todays patch, I have done 3-4 instant dogfights in the p51 over Normandy and it didn't happen in any of the missions, where previously it happened every single time.

The warthog adapter is in stock again, the hornet adapter says two more weeks on website

I also would like to know about availability of the tm warthog adapter

Received the replacement pcb i bought from thrustmaster support for $56.30 USD shipping included, was easy to swap and throttle is fully working again

Streakeagle, (if the adapters ever become available) would the thrustmaster warthog work okay on the vkb gunfighter with only a 10 cm extension? I want it to be softer than the thrustmaster base but still be able to center

I don't have the luxury of a dedicated setup so i have to move my hotas out of the way when I'm not playing which usually means unplugging it. So do I need to plug in to the exact same usb ports then?

As title says I don't understand where profiles are supposed to be saved. When I select save profile in game the default save path is in the mission folder under campaigns. Searching the game's directory I found the following folder: C:\Games\DCS World OpenBeta\Mods\aircraft\... Wherein each aircraft has its own input>joystick folder, for instance the folder for the P51 is: C:\Games\DCS World OpenBeta\Mods\aircraft\P-51D\Input\P-51D\joystick So I have been saving the controls to there. Often times after a week or two of not playing the game I come back and the controls are all messed up to the terrible defaults, especially if an update happened. In the folder I now have a bunch of profiles of the same name but different device id. For instance for my ch combatstick is have three different entries of the form: CH COMBATSTICK USB {#######-####-####-####-############}.diff.lua I only have one combatstick so why is there three entries each with a different number letter combination? I have similar problems with my rudder pedals and throttle. I often have to clear the settings in the game and reload one of the profiles. Please help me understand how to properly save profiles so that when an update comes or if the controller is in a different usb port I don't constantly have to reset my controls. Thanks:helpsmilie:

For me I was able to use the same button for "wheel brake both" that I chose in T-link to use the toe brakes axis. I confirmed using the controls overlay. When I just push the button it brakes both wheels, when I push the pedals in a direction it alters the axis to only brake in on the pressed on side (press rudder right and it brakes right wheel) when i move axis back to center still holding the button the brake distribution returns to even braking on both wheels. It meets my needs just fine.

I have been happy with my T-Rudders, but I still haven't tried the soft center cam. I left them on default cam and its worked fine for me for wwii planes in dcs and the other wwi/wwii games. Been wondering what is better/realistic for aircraft, mainly wwii era prop planes. So, which cam (hard or soft center) do you use and what type of aircraft do you fly?

Okay after working a bit I finally got the firmware updated to be able to use T-link, and yes it DOES work with my warthog stick as modifier to vkb pedals. I don't understand why they said it doesn't, thanks for your help

According to VKB tech support, T-Link only works with VKB hardware, it does not recognize others sticks. Thanks Fri13, but I don't have the MCG, I have the warthog. I was able to figure out how to make virtual axes for the two sides of the pedals, when I push left, and right each has their own axis in addition to the rudder axis. This works for taxing and takeoff okay. I have a button on the stick set for both wheel brakes for landing. I have also figured out that DCS has option to add one of the joystick buttons as modifier in case i find a situation where i need rudder control but don't want wheel brakes at the same time (maybe takeoff?). Only problem with using modifier is it doesn't let you dual purpose it. I would like to use the same button I have for the "both brakes" to double as the left/right axis modifier. As it without having a modifier I was able to takeoff in the p51, with brakes tied to virtual 2 axes based on the rudder

My TM warthog throttle# 19519, died sometime Sunday or monday. I plugged it into the computer while the computer was on, computer didn't recognize it, Bootloader didn't fix it, I sent a message to TM support, hoping I can buy a PCB board from them or from Robert in the link above.

For the west style planes when you said the "braking axis" do you mean the left wheel axis, right wheel axis, or the both wheel axis?

Does my joystick have to be a VKB stick to setup virtual toe brakes (for DCS p51)? I don't have a vkb stick, just the VKB MkIV pedals, I am wondering if its possible to get virtual brakes to work using my tm warthog.

I don't understand, It seems like the 20cm would be a good height for me, but are you saying that with the curved extension the grip couldn't be canted? In other words only the straight extensions allow for it being canted? Since it is a twist grip could you twist it and lock it in place for the same effect?

Does your vkb f14 grip have the ability, like the mcg does, to mount with a slight cant/angle for good ergonomics when used as a center stick?

When flying the Fw 190 A-8 Anton just in free flight I am getting a choppy 30-40 fps. Is this normal? My reference is flying the instant action dogfight mission in the Mustang over normandy (the 2 vs 2 dogfight against bf-109) I get 120-144 fps. In the Anton I am also seeing light on the edges of the instrument panel where it butts the shroud, as if there is a gap between instrument panel and shroud. Is this normal? If anyone had tips/info on how to get the Anton to run smoothly, besides upgrade my computer, I would appreciate it.

I completed mission two of the blue bodney campaign last night. During engine start and taxi and when landed there was the annoying popping sound, even with canopy closed. Even when all the AI engines wre shutdown there was STILL that annoying popping sound

So playing around with this, shutting OFF the oxygen supply also makes the ringing go away. I've also noticed that when the ringing is happening the G effects like black out don't appear normally when they should. Setting oxygen to 100% or emergency off makes the ringing go away and G effects such as black out will happen normally again.

After opening it, it seems really easy to just replace the potentiometer. I received a link from CH products to the replacement pot available from DigiKey. It cost me less to buy and ship the two pot than for a can of contact cleaner. I bought a couple of those and will swap our the roll when they arrive. I may still get some contact cleaner, seems useful. Thanks guys

They are, so skip it if you want controls that represent real planes. Just know that some aircraft DO require a lot to configure, target, and launch weapons.

HELP Track IR [sOLVED] OH MY! That was IT, thank you so much. I had TrueView checked for my DCS profile, and all my others were unchecked. I feel silly. Your description of "translation relative to motion" was exactly what I was experiencing and what I didn't want. SO much better now.

HELP Track IR [sOLVED] I'll check the "TrueView" setting I don't know what that is set to. Might be my problem thanks.

My advise would be any warbird, flaming cliffs 3 package, F5E, F-86, F-14. Although "ten" is a bit dramatic, I get what you mean. The "others [A-10c, JF-17, M-2000c, AV8B Harrier,...] require you to click ten buttons, just to fire the guns". I have not tried the hornet or f-16.

I assume this suffices as contact cleaner? https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SPECIALIST-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-30055/307599950