Ranma13

The thing you have to understand about wholesale manufacturers is that they don't sell to end users for very good reasons. Pretty much every manufacturer is working with a design created by another company and are under NDA/contractually obligated to not sell it to anyone outside of that contract. They're not going to run the risk of losing contracts worth tens of thousands of dollars just to sell a $10 board to a few random nobodies. Also, wholesale manufacturers deal with runs in the thousands and tens of thousands that may be spaced out months or even years apart, depending on how quickly their client can go through their stock. Each run means retooling the entire factory line, which they're not going to do for a one-off. This is why low-run products like the campaigns on drop.com are sold in batches, because they need to meet a minimum amount before the manufacturer will even give them the time of day. If you look on most wholesale sites, the minimum order amount is usually 1,000. There's also the administrative overhead; the amount of time it takes to set everything up to fulfill an order of 1 piece vs. 10,000 pieces is not that much different, meaning that the company would lose money just on overhead trying to make and sell individual pieces. What you're asking is like saying you want to buy an iPhone mainboard, but don't want to buy it through Apple because it's too expensive, so you're trying to get in touch with Foxconn to see if they'd sell you one at a reduced price. It's a pipe dream. Does that answer your question?

Why do you believe that their supplier would do business with you and be willing to sell a single board to you at a much reduced rate?

I don't think so, the mounting plate it comes with is meant to slip between the joystick/throttle and whatever else you have it mounted to. Theoretically you should be able to use it with a table mount, but the issue becomes whether you have enough clearance in front of the throttle for the button box. Unfortunately I don't really have any other recommendations, maybe this one by DSD: https://derekspearedesigns.com/dsd-flight---flt1flt2.html But I personally find the design aesthetic and layout pretty meh, which is understandable because he primarily makes button boxes for racing sims and it shows. You can search for "button box" and see what comes up, like on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xbutton+box.TRS0&_nkw=button+box&_sacat=0 It should at least give you an idea of what's available out there, though I'd be wary of buying anything north of $100. The vast majority of button boxes really are just $20 worth of parts being sold at exorbitant markups.

That depends on what you mean by "fully compatible". It's recognized as a USB HID device, so it's treated like any other joystick. Also like any other joystick, the toggle switches have an on position where it's treated as a button being pressed, and an off position where it's treated as a button being released. Out of the 4 toggle switches, two are latching 2-position switches where the switch stays in the position that you flip it in, one is a momentary toggle switch that will spring back to the off position when released, and one is a 3-position latching switch. The discussions you linked are talking about configuring DCS to support the off position of the switches so that an action can be performed when the joystick "button" is released. From that standpoint, it's no different than configuring the latching toggle switches on the TM Warthog. If you don't want to mess around with the input lua files to configure that behavior, then 3 of the toggle switches are going to have reduced value. Speaking from a personal perspective, I've taken a long hard look at this multi switch panel before and I don't believe it's a good deal. The dials and sliders use really cheap plastic and the quality is rather meh. There are other buttons boxes out there that are higher quality and cost less or around the same, for example this one by Black Hog: https://www.black-hog.com/product/b-explorer-01/ I'd shop around first before making an ultimate decision.

I just tested it and you're right. At sea level hovering at 12m shooting at a target also at sea level, I can only get 8.0-8.1km before the Vikhr hits the ground.

Yes, the Warthog stick works perfectly fine on the FSSB R3 with all buttons supported. The only reason why you'd want to go the two-board route is if you need TARGET's programming capabilities. Otherwise, it's pointless to install the Warthog base's board.

I should also point out that the range you use Vikhr's is usually 4-9km. A tiny bit of offset during initial launch is not going to make a great difference. You can even loft the Vikhr's in manual firing mode and they'll gain a bit of extra range while picking up the laser just fine.

If you use TARGET, then you'll want to go with using the Warthog base's electronics. Otherwise, there's no need. With the Warthog's electronics, the base will need 2 USB cables, one for the stick's buttons so that TARGET still recognizes it as a TM Warthog base, and another for the FSSB R3 base so that it can use the force sensors.

Done, added you to my ignore list. Yes, as heloguy said, we're getting the aircraft into a stable state before releasing the trimmer. In one video I even press the trimmer repeatedly after getting it stable to make sure it's really "locked in". The uncommanded pitching only seems to happen with Joystick without Spring and FFB mode but not with the other 2 trim modes, so it's a bug with that specific implementation and not something inherent to the aircraft itself.

Nobody understands the concept you're trying to point out, hence why we're all ignoring you. Show evidence of what you're talking about, otherwise you're just quoting Wikipedia and yourself.

No curves set, though it shouldn't matter since I'm not moving the stick. If the nose is dropping very slightly, it sounds like you're getting the same behavior as I am with trimmer mode set to default or central.

Let's stop the pretentious "I am so smart" bullshit. We're talking about an inconsistent behavior with the trimmer, not the natural oscillations that would occur in not only motorcycles and aircraft, but any moving mechanical device. It's like we're discussing an issue with bicycle handling, and you're trying to contribute by throwing out info on rubber adhesion to asphalt. Getting back on topic, I looked into this some more and the pitching issue seems to only occur severely when the trimmer mode is set to Joystick without Spring and FFB. Here's a video of the the trimmer mode set to Default. I start by holding down the trimmer and changing the attitude significantly, then release when I have it stable. After that, I periodically hold down and release the trimmer without moving the stick, and the aircraft gradually pitches up each time towards the 0 pitch line, which I believe is just the aircraft's natural tendency to straighten out: The same effect can be seen with trimmer mode set to Central Position Trimmer Mode, it gradually moves towards the 0 pitch lines and stays there: It's only when the trimmer mode is set to Joystick without Spring and FFB where the aircraft starts to pitch significantly in either direction and is too large to be considered natural: It seems that if the aircraft is going to pitch up, it will do so when the trimmer is released, and if it's going to pitch down, it does it when the trimmer is first pressed. I believe the bug is with how Joystick without Spring and FFB mode handles the trim presses.

I took another look and I agree, it does look like a bug, and the same bug as the trim reset one. When you press trim down without moving the stick, the aircraft's nose will dip down, and when you release it, the aircraft's nose will pop back up to the same position as it was in when you first pressed it down. As far as I understand the Ka-50's AP system, this is not supposed to happen.

I watched the video and looked at the track and I believe I know what the issue is. The trim is like a rubber band on the nose of the helicopter that tries to pull it back to the last-trimmed position: What's happening is that the stick's position is in equilibrium with the AP force; the AP is trying to pull the helicopter's in one direction, but the cyclic's position is counter-acting that force. Imagine that the AP is trying to move the helicopter's nose 10 arbitrary units up, and your cyclic's position is pulling it 10 units down. The net effect is that the helicopter's nose stays where it is. When you hold down the trimmer, the AP force is removed, but the cyclic position is still pulling the nose down 10 units, which is why it "jumps" when you hold down the trimmer but don't move the stick. You can confirm this by enabling Flight Director; it disables the AP force so with it on, holding down the trimmer without moving the cyclic should hold the nose steady. Here's a video of me recreating the issue. I have the trim type set to "Joystick without spring or FFB" and I'm doing it on a FSSB R3, so apologies for the rough takeoff: At 0:12 I tap the trim to set the AP attitude rather low, then pull the nose up to fly in the direction I want it to. At 0:20 I hold down the trimmer without moving the stick and you can see the nose rising. At 0:26 I tap the trim at a steeper angle this time, and at 0:36 I hold down the trimmer and the nose significantly rises up without me moving the cyclic. Here's a video with Flight Director this time: Tapping the trim doesn't set the AP attitude (aside from the indicator on the HUD), so holding down the trimmer later doesn't bob the nose.

We discussed this issue a few weeks ago: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=248239 I confirmed that it is indeed an issue: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=4032455&postcount=19

You can create a NAV TGT to share a waypoint from the PVI-800 to the ABRIS: Note that I'm using INFO on the ABRIS only to get some coordinates to input into the PVI-800. If you already have the coordinates, you don't have to do anything on the ABRIS before inputting it into the PVI-800. I'm also unaware of any way to share a waypoint from the ABRIS to the PVI-800, so that will still have to be a manual process.

Unfortunately no. I started on a rewrite after I hit a brick wall on the first version, but I've been absolutely slammed lately with other matters. I'll get it done, it just won't be this year.

INU heat is not implemented, flipping the switch is cosmetic only. The manual states that it has no function. It's actually slower to use ground power because you have to wait for the ground crew to connect it up, then flip an additional switch. There's not much point to using it aside from realism purposes because it doesn't give you anything that you don't already have in the aircraft itself. DC power is the same as turning on the batteries, and for things that need AC power, you can already get all the switches and dials in the correct positions before the engines start powering the generators to produce AC power. Here's a video of me starting up the Ka-50 in just a little over 2 minutes without ground power:

It's just a control that does a certain thing, whether it's useful or not is up to the person flying the aircraft.

Not all FARPs have fuel trucks that let you refuel. You can request for it, but they won't be able to fulfill the request.

I don't know what trim reset is actually doing, but what it's supposed to be doing is only resetting the trim back to the center position and nothing else. It's not a control that exists in the actual helicopter, and is only a convenience control for spring-based joystick users to reset the position back to center. For joysticks without spring and FFB, it shouldn't do anything at all. This behavior is occurring when Flight Director is on as well, so it's not related to the AP attitude holds. It's almost like it's temporarily disabling the SAS, but it's hard to tell for sure.

Based on these screenshots, it looks like this isn't a straight "implement the FFB effects that DCS is sending directly to the joystick", but rather something that requires an export lua that reads telemetry data and sends commands to the joystick, separate from the sim. Is this correct? If so, will there be an API that allows us to interface with the joystick's FFB effect, and will it support sims other than DCS?

I can confirm that there's something funky going on with trim reset. I have my joystick set to Joystick Without Springs and FFB, in an auto-hover pressing trim reset will cause the helicopter to change its position slightly without any input: It's more obvious when flying forward. Without any input, pressing trim reset will cause the helicopter to bob: Because I'm on Joystick Without Springs and FFB mode, pressing trim reset theoretically shouldn't do anything because there's no trim that needs resetting, yet something is happening. So there indeed appears to be an issue with trim reset.

If you hold a position while pressing reset trim, the trim will reset back to the center position, then your input is added to that. This happens in one step, so it won't jump back to center before applying your input: I'm not sure what you mean by wobble.

It's been a while and I've finally raised enough funds to purchase a Brunner CLS-E base. I wanted to check and see what the current state of the official software is at. In particular: 1. Is FFB working in DCS for all aircraft? Are all the effects implemented (Su-25T shudder when >600km/h, stick position moving when trimming in fixed wing, helicopter force trim working properly, etc)? 2. Are there any issues with the FFB in DCS? Last I heard, the rumbling effect on the ground in the F-14 was too excessive. Is that still an issue, and do any of the other modules have issues as well? 3. Last I heard, FFB is not working in IL-2 BoX yet (which is understandable, the FFB data it sends out is very strange). Is this still the case? 4. It seems like some people are having trouble getting FFB to work with DCS. Has this been resolved, or is it still an issue for some people? 5. I plan to center mount the base in between my legs and use it without an extension, but someone stated that the base is quite large and might be uncomfortable to use when mounted this way. Is this true? 6. Are there any other issues that would be good to know about before purchasing the base?