Socket7

Op says he's only asking questions, but is doing so by quite blatantly demonstrating his awareness that something is not right. Reminds me of when you ask a child if they ate a slice of cake and they think you won't notice frosting smeared on their face. For the amount of effort that was expended by OP on this endeavour, a useful bug report could have been created instead. :dunno:

In the very early days of DRM, when it was a lot easier for programmers to screw with critical parts of the windows OS, DRM devs thought it would be clever to piggyback their crap on critical parts of the infrastructure. For example, inserting itself into the windows TCP/IP stack. Then the user uninstalls the game, the DRM is buggy and doesn't restore the TCP/IP stack, and you have no more internet, and it's nearly impossible to fix without a format. I remember a specific DRM issue like this. I know there were others as well. The public didn't like this much. Microsoft didn't either, because their OS got flack too. DRM doesn't do that anymore. It's against policy, and microsoft doesn't let them get their meathooks in there anyway. In fact, the last time I remember hearing about a game destroying a bunch of computers, it was EVE Online, because they typoed a line of their installer. and installed the games boot.ini to C:\ (Why they used boot.ini as a config file, the world will never know.)

The most soul crushing part of DRM for me is the the sheer volume of serial numbers I have to enter because I own so many modules. I don't think I've ever uninstalled a single module correctly. I've been through 2 computers and 2 OS formats on each and they all still have 6 activations left... I'm not worried. :music_whistling:

No controls indicator shown on a video saying the controls are not touched. Not that I think you touched them, but a little thoroughness is in order if you are going to make this thread yet again.

Magnetic trim just sets the center point of your cyclic axis. If you deflect your cyclic 50% forward and hit the magnetic trim button, your cyclic will center at that 50% forward deflection. In a real helicopter, the cyclic stick would move forward halfway and then be held there by the magnetic trim system. You can "center" the cyclic at any place you please. For us simmers, there is no way to make a joystick center anywhere other than it's center, So when we use the magnetic trim, we have to re-center the joystick, while an actual pilot does no such thing, because his cyclic stick does not have the same limitation. With the fine trim, you can only adjust your cyclic by a few degrees (I believe you can see how little by watching the controls indicator, but I could be wrong). It might be enough for flying in still air on a clear day, but if you add in a bit of wind and turbulence, you'll suddenly find the fine trim to be quite lacking. The designers of the helicopter gave you both trim systems for a reason, It was not so that you could completely ignore one. Use them together, as they both have advantages and shortcomings. :thumbup:

You guys realize that the hat trim has a limited range, right? It only goes so far. Magnetic trim lets you set trim your cyclic to anywhere at all. You should set your rough trim with the magnetic brake, then fine tune your trim with the fine hat trim.

Yes. You should be using magnetic trim. Everyone should. It works like the other helicopter trim systems. Get flying the way you want, press and release the button, then re-center your joystick. Once you use magnetic trim to get yourself close to how you want to be flying, use fine trim to get it just right.

base made of some box tubing and some standardized mounting rail. Pedal shafts look suspiciously like a wrench. (edit: someone else nailed it, they are bicycle pedals. ) I really do envy how easily the chinese get a hold of raw parts. I don't know where I'd get those end cap joints that connect the pedals to the hall sensor in the middle. Probably works better than CH pedals, but not by much. Gonna have a nasty center spot like the CH do they have the same tension design.

As you raise the nose to slow your forward speed, you have to lower the collective to avoid climbing. As your forward speed reduces, you begin to lose translational lift and you then need to reapply collective to maintain altitude. If you anticipate needing that extra collective because of the loss of translational lift, and add it before you being sinking, your transitions will get a lot smoother and you'll be less prone to getting into VRS during them. Keep a note of how much collective you need to hover while stationary, and you'll begin to get a feel for how much you need to give it to slow to a perfect hover from forward flight.. It will all become natural instinct once it "clicks". For landings try and get as low as possible before entering a hover. Descending 100 meters in a hover leaves you in a precarious situation for a very long time, making you impatient, making you rush things and crash. (Or at least, that's what always happens to me.) If you want to practice hovering, try sling loading cargo. It demands precise hover control. I made a mission for landing practice in the MI-8, actually. When you can beat this mission reliably, you'll be an expert! Or at least competent. :pilotfly: http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/1277734/ Uhm. Let me know if the latest version of DCS has broken anything in it. I dont think it should have.

See my previous reply in the other thread just posted today about SLI... SLI absolutely works in 2.0.2. Some games simply won't use both cards, and when you try and force it to run in AFR the game will crash. This is not so much a "problem" as forcing something that isn't supported and causing a game to crash. When you leave your nvidia profile settings at their defaults, SLI will not cause crashes or instability. It just might not use both cards. http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2853213&postcount=6

yup. Nugget is a normal term for a pilot in training. Battlestar Galactica calls their rookie pilots nuggets too. I'm sure there are other examples in pop culture, but that's the one that sprang to mind.

you should be able to see the amount of time until your DHCP lease expires too. I'm not sure how to check that information on the router itself. Dig around in the DHCP or network information settings. In windows, you can do an ipconfig /all and get the lease creation and expiration date, but that wont help in this case because it will only tell you how long your desktop has its 192.168.1.x lease to the router, instead of your routers lease on an internet facing IP.

SLI works in 2.0.2 natively in surround mode, no tweaking required. SLI works in 2.0.2 in single monitor SLI mode with AFR forced on in the nvidia control panel. you gain about 20-30% improvement. There are absolutely gains to be made. 1.x is much more CPU bound, and since I'm so bored of the caucus map, I've not done any testing with it. I run x2 4gb GTX980's Haswell-E at 3.7ghz. X99 chipset 16GB of DDR4 I am not CPU bound in any way in 2.0.2 Not a single core hits max. However, even on the lowest settings, I cannot manage 60 fps at 5760x1200, due to Vram and GPU power constraints. If you come back down to 1920x1200, instead of triple monitors, things get much better, but I still cannot max out all settings. So basically, SLI works, It has gains, but it's a fools errand to think it will allow you to use 2 cheap cards to equal one expensive one. If you don't have 8 GB of Vram, your FPS will tank on high detail settings, period. I verify CPU, RAM, and GPU usage with HWinfo64, which will give you real time charts of all those things.

The new caucus map has breakers on the beaches! It's so nice to see an update for it. the map really was beginning to show its age, especially in contrast with nevada.

Fan and a cupholder please. A fan alone would be good, but if I didn't have to hold my FatDonalds cup while flying it'd really make the MI-8 guys look like chumps. :lol: One caveat though. I don't want the copilot being able to sip my drink or put his cell phone in my cupholder because "The cord for the radio aux jack isn't long enough to put it anywhere else." That'll only take like, a day, right? :megalol: Waiting eagerly but patiently for the latest update!