Socket7

I found this tutorial to be very good. There isn't much in the flight manual regarding Doppler navigation unfortunately. http://kriegsimulation.blogspot.com/2013/10/dcs-mi-8mtv2-magnificent-8-basic.html http://kriegsimulation.blogspot.com/2013/10/dcs-mi-8mtv2-magnificent-8-basic_29.html#more

The doppler system takes 2 minutes to warm up before any systems that depend on it start working. Once the system warms up the hover indicator, slip indicator, and navigation system will begin working. The switch on the doppler control panel should be rotated all the way clockwise to OPER for leg based navigation, or MEMORY (One click counterclockwise) for great circle navigation. All the other positions on the switch are just system test modes. The doppler control panel switch behind the co-pilot Is set right initially for simple navigation. Just leave it alone.

Display resolution is going to be a big problem with the rift for the foreseeable future I suspect. The display is so close to your face, that it's extremely difficult to get a dot pitch that won't give you a screen door effect. They are also splitting a 1080 display down the middle, leading to aspect ratios and resolutions that modern gamers simply don't find acceptable. Unfortunately, increasing that display resolution and getting rid of the dot pitch problems, mean the rift will require even more graphics heavy calculations. Leading to more stuttering, and lower graphical quality to maintain framerates. To reach a modern HD resolution, the rift would need a computer capable of rendering enough pixels to power 2 HD displays (One for each eye). It gets around this now, by splitting the display in half. The rift is neat, but it's just not ready yet. I'm thinking I might get one after the the second revision of the final product comes out.

Flagrum. That is inconsistent with what the manual describes, and the idle stop button has zero effect on the problem. I just tested it now, as the idle stop was not implemented when I remember not having this issue. The Issue is NOT the idle stop, and I'll prove it. 1. Turn on the Controls Indicator by pressing [RCTRL + ENTER]. 2. Throttle – Set for start. Position the throttle as near as possible (on decrease side) to the engine idle stop position. To do so: a) Roll the throttle fully left (increase) (Figure 9.1) from FULL CLOSE (Figure 9.2, 1) to FULL OPEN position by pressing and holding [PgUp]. b) Roll the throttle back to the right (decrease) by pressing and holding [PgDn] until the idle stop (Figure 9.2, 2) is reached and the throttle cannot rotate further past the detent. c) Press [RWIN + T] to engage the IDLE RELEASE switch on the collective control box. d) Press [PgDn] to roll the throttle just right (decrease) of the idle position. The throttle will now be set as near as possible (on decrease side) to the engine idle stop position as required for engine start. e) Press [RWIN + T] again to release the IDLE RELEASE switch on the collective control box. Figure 9.1. Direction of rotation of the throttle [PgUp] roll left (increase) [PgDn] roll right (decrease) Idle release Step 2A requires rotating the corrector to full, and step 2B requires rotating the corrector back down to it's idle stop. So you exercise the full range of the corrector axis in the cockpit before ever touching the idle stop release, but you can only do that by clicking on the corrector in the cockpit. You can't do that from your joystick axis. If the corrector is locked in place by design without pushing the idle stop release, why state in the manual to run it through its range of motion before pressing the idle release, and why does clicking on the corrector in the cockpit override this detent, instead of the idle release button, which does nothing? It's obviously broken, and its operation is completely inconsistent with the manual. Test it yourself.

I'm using the term Corrector to refer to the digital twist grip in the game, and throttle to refer to my physical throttle. The controls config screen lists it as the corrector, but I don't know if thats what a pilot would call it. I just wanted to use 2 different words to make sure it was clear which throttle I was talking about. It would be confusing if I called them both "the throttle".

That one looks momentary in both ways. http://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/_/N-5g2j?P=1z0z2xmZ1z0z27b I think anything here will work. If you narrow down to 30V DC stuff only, a milspec honeywell switch shows up. So they seem like good candidates. Then there is a question of bushing size, which determines the size of the mounting hole and the length of the switch itself. You also have to decide if you want solder or screw terminals on the bottom. Mouser has pretty good data sheets regarding dimensions but i've always had a devil of a time seeing engineering drawings in my head. I like to hold physical stuff in my hand.

Thats my understanding. Thats how the switches on the TM warthog work too. Up and down are button presses, while centered is pushing nothing. The same switch should work for the inverter standby / test switch on the electrical panel.

I believe you are looking for SPDT switches of the ON-OFF-(ON) variety. The brackets mean that the switch has to be held in that position instead of latching there. I've been puzzling all this out myself recently. I hate only being able to look at them in online catalogs. When you find some switches of the size you like, I'd love to know some part numbers of switches people are happy with. The only part numbers i've found are to very expensive authentic milspec switches, as opposed to cheap everyday switches that are sized correctly. A database of common part numbers for popular switches would be really handy for newcomers to pit building.

If you pay 400 bucks for an authentic piece of kit, do you really want to gut the internals though? I was thinking of keeping the thing intact as much as possible. Decoding the signals used for the throttle axis, and then finding something that could interface with it and your PC would be quite the electrical engineering project. I agree with you though, the toggle switches is just a matter of testing the pinouts with a multimeter. probably just time consuming.

I have a TM warthog and have the same issue when the corrector is set to my left throttle. DESCRIPTION OF BUG: When doing a cold start from the ramp, the corrector twist grip WILL NOT move, regardless of what position your throttle is in, until unlocked with a mouse click or keyboard command. REPRODUCTION STEPS Load a mission with a cold ramp start. Attempt to adjust corrector with your throttle input. corrector will not move. Click the twist grip in the cockpit and rotate it that way, or use the keyboard command, the twist grip becomes unstuck, and will from then on respond correctly to whatever throttle inputs you give it. Does not seem to be limited to the X52/

I imagine that without pinout diagrams for the plugs, and technical documentation to describe what the signals it sends means, it would be a nightmare to connect it to anything. With documentation, it'd still be a lot of work, but at least you know what signals and wires you're working with for any particular function, making it much easier to wire everything up to an arduino or whatever. Very cool piece though! I've played with the idea of real A-10 hardware in my panels, but decided it was all to expensive for me. ($40 to 160 a piece for authentic toggle switches!!!)

Thank you for the information on what the governor RPM switch is used for! Sorry for being a bit rude. Switching the governor to emergency mode for anything other then a governor failure has been duly deleted from my list of proper procedures.

If you weren't EVER supposed to touch the turbine governor why would it be in the helicopter at all? Obviously, there is a situation that it is used. The information from the manual just tells you what it does, not why it is used. Do you have any insight on this what situations the RPM governor control switch is used? Or are you just telling me I'm wrong?

I don't know, I can't find any documentation on the governor switches use. It allows you to set the turbine RPM. In addition to changing the Rotor RPM, this also has an effect on engine EGTs. I guess the governor switch is used as part of thermal management. I think it also has some effect on load capacity, since you have to turn the governor off for heavily loaded takeoffs. I'm really just guessing though.

Even if they did open the door how would you back into the shelter with no reverse gear? The Ground crew is not going to be happy with you using 1500 rounds of combat mix to reverse. :music_whistling:

Do MI-8's even have door gunners? I have no idea myself. the MI-8TVK has a nose mounted machine gun, but thats a different aircraft from the MI-8MTV2.

Set your throttle to maximum, then use the governor for fine adjustments. You should only be managing rotor RPM with the throttle if the governor fails. Edit: Found some excerpts from the flight manual that explain things. C. Governor switch The GOV switch is located on the ENGINE control panel. AUTO position permits the overspeed governor to automatically control the engine rpm with the throttle in the full open position. The EMER position permits the pilot or copilot to manually control the rpm. Because automatic acceleration, deceleration, and overspeed control are not provided with the GOV switch in the EMER position, control movements must be smooth to prevent compressor stall, overspeed, over-temperature, or engine failure. Note. If GOV switch is in EMER position and throttle is full opened, main rotor rpm can exceed the limit, so pilot should control engine and rotor rpm manually by rotating the throttle twist grip. 2.4.4. Governor RPM Switch The pilot and copilot GOV RPM INCR/DECR switches are mounted on a switch box attached to the end of the collective pitch control lever (Figure 4.6). The switches are a three-position momentary type and are held in INCR (up) position to increase the power turbine (N2) speed or DECR (down) position to decrease the power turbine (N2) speed. Electrical power for the circuit is supplied from the 28 VDC essential bus and is protected by a circuit breaker marked GOV CONT.

Amazing job on those panels! You don't happen to have part numbers for those panel switches in an invoice somewhere, do you? I'd like to build my own panels with switches that match the Thrustmaster warthogs, but nobody ever mention the part numbers they use! Mouser and digikey are terrible to navigate if you don't have one.

This looks really, really, cool. I've always thought about building panels, but never got around to it. This just might get me off my butt.

I've got a set of CH pedals, and wheel brakes work fine on the P-51, A-10, any aircraft that has axis controls for the brakes. The Mi-8, for example, only has button actuated brake. I have to map a key or button for the mi-8. I cannot assign a pedal axis to it. The A-10, and P51, have both button actuated, and axis actuated brake options. Make sure you have selected the "Axis" filter in the controls setting, to make sure you are looking at the wheel brake axis, not the wheel brake button. Then make sure you are highlighting the correct column when you assign it. I don't know how many times I've tried to assign a button to my throttle, only to have it not work because I've highlighted the joystick column by accident, instead of the throttle. One more thing, the wheel brake axis when using CH pro Pedals are inverted. If you do not check "invert" in the axis tuning menu, you will have to depress the pedal axis completely to RELEASE the brake. Make sure to tick the invert checkbox, so you apply the brakes when you press the pedals.

It's probably a low priority because of the very nice fan made english cockpit mod. Why duplicate effort when there are higher priorities? http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=114166