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humptydumpty

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Everything posted by humptydumpty

  1. I am seeing this in the log "(this situation should not occur on end user PC, if there is no manual shader editing)" , i notice this in MP. It will connect now the 1st time but then will not respond once it's connected so i stay in the Spectator menu and then i need to quit it. Though my system is way below the required config. I am not complaining about the performance.
  2. I found an alternative , with an arduino uno and a MPU 6050 , it works perfect. the only thing is to keep the MPU 6050 leveled so i stuck it to the joystick handle. I will use the hall effect on the other stick.
  3. I too have an arduino Uno R3 clone, it works perfect in X-plane using ArdsimX , i need to try DCS and il2, currently what i have done is connect MPU 6050 to make it a precise stick and i think it looks good.
  4. Yep , i will be taking it from the joysticks cable which connects to the stick circuit and it shows 5v.
  5. So 5v is available from the joysticks USB
  6. I think i will pull the 5v from the logitech's usb cable where it connects to the sticks card. will try tomorrow, my guess it should give me 5v
  7. Wow that's some heavy duty thing, now to steal someones bike handle :)
  8. @Fragbum I am planning on a full metal collective , i don't know how it will be but i am thinking of attaching gears to the collective rotation point. I don't know what base i will use , maybe a full aluminium body or wood but i am sure i will make the collective handle from metal if i get the right one else PVC, Why i will use the gears for the collective is to keep it stable. The idea is just in my head for now. But i will get there. The main idea is to have for both fixed wing and helis but helis is now a much higher preference due to X-plane. Let's see how it goes , still figuring out the arduino config at least for the switches and rotary buttons. I am not looking at a full scale pit but only for comms / Nav and maybe a few things more like the light switches. I have a few toggle switches but i am not sure how it should be connected to the arduino , though i am checking a few designs. Will adjust the magnets tomorrow or get more of the button types , the big coin sized ones.
  9. Rgr, in fact i need to touch the sensor with it and that's when i can see the full axis movement. Thanks.
  10. Yes the one is North and the other South. I do have two button type magnets but whichever works i am ok with. There is no coil , i have separated the magnets from the HDD Oh yeah getting the arc on the sensor will not be an easy thing.
  11. WHy a wooden collective base ? i suppose that is the collective. And the extended stick looks exactly like the one i have modded using a 2 feet PVC pipe.
  12. About the magnets , the best position i found is at the front and rotate the magnet clockwise and anti-clockwise works but it will not give me MAX high on the axis , this i need to figure it. Of course i am not an electronics person , had done some way back in the 90's thats it :) I just know to solder and check voltage ehehe. But i will figure something out. ABout your control setup , can you post some shots ? i need to make the collective with the throttle.
  13. Anyone have any videos or shots of the magnets position ? i am a bit confused because the whole range of the axis does not happen unless i touch the magnets to the sensor
  14. Sokol, The circuit of the logitech is very small and it does not have a jumper , but thanks for the link i will go through it. Right now i am more concerned about the magnets position because i know at least the hall effect is working with external voltage. but what the position of the magnets should be is a bit dicey
  15. @Fragbum Just checked the voltage on the logitech Pins , 3rd is ground and the voltage i get is around 3.9 to 4v , but on the 2nd pin the voltage is way too low around 0.25v. Now i am thinking of using 5v of the arduino rather than connecting the external USB power. One thing if you would help me with is the position of the magnet to the MH481. what i have noticed is that the axis only goes half way , meaning it will go to 100% but remain at 50% when moving the magnet away , so it remains in the center , this i am trying on the Z axis for now ,but using different angles i get the axis to full high and full low which is a bit confusing. Would appreciate some suggestions Now i know that the sensors are working so i can use the arduino for gauges display and switches that should be fine. As the 10k pot is working on it using Unojoy. Maybe later i might by the Leonardo board but that;s later. Before that i have to figure out the collective with throttle design.
  16. Do you mean on the logitech pins ? What i remember was that the 3rd pin is ground because that's when i get some voltate showing up on the meter , but the moment i get home i will test it again.
  17. When i connect the Sensor only to the Logitech pins the voltage on the analogue drops below 1v. What I will do is once i get back home in a couple of hours , recheck the voltages and post it here.
  18. Yes that is the best option , but strangely the voltage is way below 1v on the analogue pin when i connect them only to the logitech. But surprises me is why it is working the way i have connected , maybe not enough grounding i don't know.
  19. @Fragbum @Sokol1_br Very weird think happened when today morning before leaving for work i tried the hall effect back on the logitech attack 3 with a 5v USB external power , the axis was jumping , i don't know from where i got this brilliant idea , but i went ahead and connected the VCC and the GND of the logitech on to the relevant pins of the hall effect. Now both USB 5V + GND and Logitech 5v + GND are connected to the hall effect pins and the 3rd to the analougue and then i put the magnet and voila there it was working and super smooth. Now i need to figure out how to connect the magnets in the efficient way.
  20. Yeah it don't work nothing works :( i will check mjoy16 thanks. I tried unojoy and connected a pot to the A0 but nothing
  21. Hi Sokol, The chip has a label AT328p-u and I am already trying MMjoy, though thanks for the info. I will post the results. I do have the hall effect connected on Digital pin 12 lets see how does MMjoy Its a clone Arduino Uno R3
  22. @Fragbum This is what I am going to try , it has something for Hall sensors, I have not yet found anything with Unojoy using Hall sensors. https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki/Connecting-basic-inputs-and-setting-up-software Wish me luck that I don't brick it again :)
  23. Hi, The hall effect is working with the magnets, I checked it with the meter and also using a LED , so If I get the south pole next to the sensor the LED lights up and when I move it away the light goes off and same with the voltage it drops below 2.0v. Though I need to change the firmware to Unojoy and I almost bricked it:). I am not sure how I will go about the sensors with Unojoy . There is also MMjoy. I need to check more so that I can use this as a HID Joystick and also if possible for some gauges to display. The Arduino Uno what I have is the clone one. Thanks for the help Fragbum.
  24. So tried the Arduino uno using a LED and put the magnet near the sensor and the light is going ON and then OFF depending on the magnetic distance. Thanks Fragbum about the data pin :) Now I will search for a code for the axis and lets see how it goes, the plan is to make a cyclic / collective with the throttle .
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